After a nearby lightning strike (which took out a variety of other stuff) the remote no longer works on my set. It's not the remote itself as I also have my Dish remote set up to control the TV and it doesn't work either. It sounds like it might be a power supply problem with the remote receiver and I do have the skills to work on it but I'd like some guidance before I dig in.
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Re: Remote no longer works
In side of the TV set there is a remote receiver module. In some models of sets, there is no module. They use descrete components on the main circuit board. The fault could be in the remote receiver section. In some models of TV sets there are some remote amplifiation circuits along the way to the uPC controler. There could be a fault along this path.
The service tech would troubleshoot this by verifying the voltage supply to the remote receiver circuits. Then he would shoot an IR remote signal to the receiver, and then follow the data flow from the output of the IR reciever circuits along its signal path to the uPC controler. This way, he should be able to see with the scope where the data signal is failing.
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The remote control is the one which emits infrared, the tv is just an infrared receiver. first of all, check the infrared in your remote control. To see this infrared beam, read the related article at: http://www.unique-stuff.co.cc/fixing_remote_control_check_infrared.html
It may be too late for this advice, but if you live in a lightning prone area, you should consider having a 'whole house surge protector' installed. The cost should be well under $300 (a lot less if you install it) and with the included insurance (most often for $25,000) it is a good investment.
If your house was struck, I'm surprised you don't have a list of things that no longer work.
No, I don't think it is worth the cost of a repair, if you can even find someone to do it for you.
Most of us are retired-
I had the same problem with my remote...over time it slowly stopped working. (sorry for poor terminology) I noticed that one of the battery terminals was corroded and that the metal connecting the battery to the board was completely gone. I simply swapped this out with one from another remote and now its working fine. Seems the only issue is that the battery was not connected.
The bad news is they are correct the vertical board is bad, the good news is the board can be repaired. Now it's what you have to do to repair the board is the problem. first you need a schematic and multimeter to show you what the voltages are on the board then using those voltages you can tell which components on the board are bad. Now here is even better news, the board might not have suffered all that much damage, maybe just enough to take out one component in the power supply which could cause this problem to. The fact is this set can be repaired, here are your options.
1) replace board
2) repair board and associative circuitry (this includes possible power supply damage.)
There you go.
If the board is no longer available, then option two becomes the only option on the table. Is the shop willing to repair the board and associative circuitry?
If so take it back to them and have it done if you wish to have it repaired.
First of all, forget about the remote and see if the TV functions normally using the buttons on the front of the set itself. If the TV will not power on with the power button on the set itself, then something is wrong inside the TV. If the set works fine from the front buttons but no longer responds to that remote, then the remote has either gone bad or was accidently set to a different brand. In this case, look for the original book that came with the remote (or TV if it is the original remote) and follow the instructions for setting the remote back to Zenith. Try that and post your results here.
Assuming this line is across the screen horizontally (side to side), this means the vertical deflection circuitry is dead. In late model sets, there is a Integrated circuit package which drives the vertical yoke coils. Possible defects: the I.C. itself, bad solder connections where it solders to the board, missing voltage source to this I.C. (often around +24 volts), or a bad electrolytic capacitor in the associated circuitry. This latter often results in a non-linear picture, or less than full deflection condition, rather than a thin line only.
It is possible lightning caused this problem, (I've seen some rather illogical damage from lightning ) perhaps it produced enough of a surge to pop the I.C. or a fusible resistor in that voltage source noted above.
you can look for the model and brand, look for it on the internet and see if you can have the schematic diagram, you're lucky if u can. Lightning will strike first the tuner side, if there is a red blink, the primary side may be okay in switching type regulator, just replacing the charred part may not solve the problem. look for shorted components on the secondary of the power section.