When I take a picture in normal mode inside or outside, the image is dark unless I set it to the special brighten subject mode which almost washes people out, have never had this problem. camera worked great until now
I had bought your camera model no.fc-210(U) but it was not working properly so please direct me in your sevice centre in India at kerala state. ( This camera is with in the garentee period )
I am waiting your repley as early as possible
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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
Try hooking the TV to a different outlet fed by a different breaker. Does the problem go away? If so, the culprit may be a wiring problem in your house that is causing the TV not to get enough power unless the dining room light is on.If in doubt, consult an electrician to make sure both the dining room light and TV outlet circuits are working properly.
The symptoms you're describing could be caused by either the "Fireworks" special scene selection mode, or manual mode with too much exposure compensation. Look at your mode selector (back of the camera, upper left hand corner). Is the mode set to the still image setting (pointing at the liittle red camera)? Or is it set to special scene selection (SCN)?
If you are unintentionally in SCN mode, to get it out of "Fireworks", just turn the mode selector dial to select "still image" (pointing at the little red camera). Or you can also select an SCN mode more appropriate for outdoors. Just turn the dial to SCN, press the FUNC button, then press the left/right arrow buttons to select Portrait, Beach, Snow etc...
But if your mode selector is already in still image selection, then check to make sure that you're not in "Manual" picture mode. Turn the mode selector dial to "still picture mode" (pointing at the little red camera), then press the "FUNC" button. Now look at the bottom of the screen. If it says "Manual", press the "left" button controller once to select and put the camera in "Auto" still picture mode.
learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge. the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem. once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced. good luck mark
Metering has gone on the .Can you set the camera to Aperture priority or speed priority?Set to either permanently if you cane then you should get a standard exposure.
The inside shots may appear dark, but all the information is there and a treak in an image editor will brighten them up.
Cant do the same for too bright images though if they burnout then that's it.
a repair is not likely
got a birthday any time soon
Got some one that luvs you enough to buy you the next one.?
You may need to use the flash. Make sure the setting is not flash off. If you're using the flash, make sure your subject is within the range of 14 feet for wide angle shots or 11 feet for telephoto shots. Use Image Expert to adjust the picture's brightness and contrast. Try adjusting the camera's exposure or sensitivity settings (use the Manual user mode). If you're taking pictures in the Manual user mode, look for the EV! warning that appears on your LCD screen when you are taking pictures out of the ideal exposure range. If you have trouble setting both the aperture and shutter speed manually, try adjusting the aperture and letting the camera choose the shutter speed with Aperture Priority mode. If you're using the macro mode to take a close-up photo, be sure to provide adequate lighting for your subject. If you're taking a picture at night and you want to light up the background as well as your subject, use the camera's slow synchronized flash mode. If you need more light, attach an optional external flash to the camera's hot shoe.
Press the "T" for telephoto and get closer to the subject. Optical telephoto zoom is like using a telescope to get closer to the subject before taking the picture. With optical Telephoto zoom you can maintain the full resolution and quality.
After you have used all of the optical Telephoto range, the camera will continue to enhance the image with Digital Zoom. This enhances the image inside the camera by reducing the resolution and expanding fewer pixels to fill the same image space.
Use the "W" Wide-angle button to back-up away from the subject or get a bigger area into your picture.
You can even ZOOM IN on a picture in the playback mode for a better look at the details. Turn the Mode Dial to Playback, then press the "T". Use the Enter button to move around the display area.
Press the middle of the ENTER KEY to see your images in thumbnail view and / or scroll through several images at one time to find a specific / special image quickly.
There are ways to deal with this problem. As others have said,
your camera appears to be normal.
Consider using "dark frame subtraction" to successfully employ
long shutter speeds. The technique involves capturing two images
using the same exposure time and the same camera temperature.
One of the images is your picture. The other (the "dark image") is
captured with the lens cap on, or other suitable way to block all light.
Then using one of the more sophisticated photo editing applications,
"subtract" the "dark image" from your picture. This technique will
dramatically reduce the noise, because moist of the noise is deterministic,
but is highly dependent on shutter speed and on CCD temperature.
Of course you can use flash at night, but only for subjects
that are close enough to the camera - not for a subject such
as your stjernehimmel 2 photo