Re: power OFF button doesn't work; unit keeps running,...
I have the same problem! The "pcb" referred to in the previous reply is undoubtedly what Sears refers to as the "COVER ASSEMBLY, DISPLAY", part number 3551A20109B. It is possible, but highly unlikely, that the defective part is the ESCUTCHEON, p/n 3831A20079D. Sears lists the cost of the COVER ASSEMBLY, DISPLAY as $17.25 plus, undoubtedly shipping and tax. The part seems to be available only from the Sear Web Site under "PArts Direct". This dehumidifier is a piece of garbage. I previously had to replace the SENSOR ASSEMBLY, p/n 6877A30013L. This item turns off the unit when the water tank is full. This dehumidifier has my room flooded - twice - when the unit failed to turn off and overflowed.
While under waranty Sears/Kenmore attempted to repair the unit five times. They never succeeded and when the warranty ran out they would not repair the unit unless I paid for it. Thats when I started doing my own repairs!
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Nine times out of ten, a problem with a dehumidifier can be traced to electrical parts-not to the compressor. If the problem is being caused by the compressor and the unit is out of warranty (most have a 1-year limited warranty), strongly consider replacing the unit rather than trying to have the compressor repaired. If you're thinking about having the unit repaired, be sure to ask for an estimate.
Unless it is designed to drain automatically, a dehumidifier should be emptied fairly often during hot and muggy or damp weather- sometimes as often as once a day. In humid, damp climates, a dehumidifier's reservoir can pull as much as 50 pints of water from the air a day. Failure to keep the reservoir clean and dry will just contribute to the problems you're trying to solve. If you're in the market for a new dehumidifier, consider its reservoir capacity: Larger capacity reservoirs work more efficiently and have to be emptied less often. Many dehumidifiers have a float switch that prevents the unit from spilling over with the water that has been drawn out of the air. Sometimes this switch goes bad and must be replaced. If your dehumidifier is overflowing, you can test the overflow prevention switch with a volt-ohm meter. 1) Unplug the dehumidifier and remove the switch. 2) Disconnect the leads and clip the leads to the terminals on the switch. 3) Check the pan or reservoir and empty it if necessary, or make sure the drain isn't clogged. 4) Straighten any kinks or bends in the unit's hose. 5) Set a volt-ohm meter to the RX1 scale (or to K-ω or ω resistance on a digital meter) and depress the bar or trip lever on the switch. If the meter's needle shows no continuity as the switch is clicked back and forth, the switch is probably faulty and will need replacement.
cont button just means continuous run mode . the power light is lit , the full light is out . try reseating the water catch bucket a few times , most machines have a safety that wont allow the thing to operate if bucket isn't just perfect in its slot (you don't want water on your floor )
No, not really. As the unit has to be in a level position to operate properly and not overflow. If the unit is sitting on carpet, this will often times cause the vibration noise. I don't know why, but it does and it does with my 4 year old LG unit. I have noticed, that once the tank reaches the 1/2 full point, it will vibrate sometimes. I solved the problem by firmly smacking the left & right sides of cabinet at the same time, with my open hands. The vibration stops immediately and continues to run until it shuts off because, the humidity extraction level has been reached or the tank is Full & needs to be emptied.
It's a simple solution, but it works. I hope it works for you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
Yes. Either the hose is clogged or the hose connection and it's tubing is clogged. When that happens, water is automatically diverted to the bucket. The hose is easy to check for a blockage. Simply remove it and either blow thru it or look thru it for daylight.
To clear the hose connection and tubing. Use an 18" long appropriately sized Zip Tie. Insert the end of the Zip Tie into the hose connection and carefully work it in. You will reach a bend in the tubing that you need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past. Continue to insert it until the Zip Tie bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. The slowly pill the Zip Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will dislodge any clogs. As you reach the tip of the Zip Tie, be prepared as some water may follow. Hook the hose back up, plug the unit in and turn it On. Set the humidity extraction level at 35%. Monitor the end of the hose for water flow, after about 15 - 20 minutes. If water doesn't start to flow, turn the unit OFF and repeat the above procedure. Also, remove the air intake filter and clean it if necessary.
Hope this helped to solve the problem and thanks for choosing FixYa.
Dehumidifiers are built that way. They keep moving air so it is able to keep any change of conditions moving around the room. On a dehumidifier, it the fan stops, your unit will short cycle becasue water will naturally evaporate from the water tank and it would turn on, then off, then on then off. The way it runs now is fine. Running the fan 24 hours on your dehumidifier cost nickels a day. Just let run.
The float is the main feature that keeps it from overflowing. I have no idea why there would even have to be an adjustable component in the circuit. The float is connected to an On-OFF microswitch and may be tested with the unit set to run.
Remove the bucket and manually push upward on the float. If the unit stops running then the bucket may be misalgned,(Make sure float is on the inside of the bucket and not lodged behind the bucket).