There are many cracks in the stucco covering the outer walls of my house causing rain water, pushed against the walls by the wind, to drip on the back of the drywalls and enter the house from the bottom under the baseboards.
i had gutters and downspouts installed but it didn't help.
i would like to paint the stucco, which now has a natural color finish, with a waterproof paint. i've been told by a friend (not an expert in painting) that he thinks that the process involves applaying first a "base coat" for the waterproof paint to stick to the stucco, then applay the "waterproof" paint which i understand is very thick and finally applay a "sealer" to protect the waterproof paint color against fading since i live in florida. by the way, the present stucco faded after only few years. its color is light yellow and will only one coat of a darker yellow be enough. the house was built 8 years ago and there were no expansion joints installed.
please, i need advice on how to do a good and lasting job.
also, what are the types and names for the "base", "waterproof" and "seal" paints and the recommended name of a company that has developed such types of paints.
finally, how to apply (spray, brush, roll), the approximate amount of square feet a gallon will cover, and the cost of each "base", "waterproof" and "seal" paints's type.
thank you very much. sam
First of all, this is a problem the guys from Home Depot wouldn't know how to fix.
Years ago, maybe when this post was originally written you may have needed to do a two coat system.
Your best and actually easiest option will be to power wash your stucco, to remove any dirt from the surface. Then you will need to mask everything up tight because you're about to spray all the stucco. Cover any concrete and plants nearby, (anything that is closer than 10 feet from the stucco.)
Then go to Sherwin-Williams and purchase Loxon XP this is a one coat system however if you have larger cracks in the stucco you will either want to caulk them with an elastomeric caulk (if you don't have too many) or apply a second coat of Loxon XP. If you're a do it yourself kinda of person you can go to home depot and rent a spray machine. While your spraying your gonna want to back roll it. www.outbackpaintingusa.com
I'd try sealing the cracks first then priming... check with your local Home Depot type place and see if they have any ideas... also it doesn't hurt to just call the experts... sometimes you get that one guy who is willing to tell you WHAT you can do...
If the cracks are NUMEROUS.... then you may need a full re-do of the whole wall. especially if you have internal water damage. you should also ask about interior wall sealing.. there is supposed to be a plastic seal between the outside and inside no matter what your exterior finish is.
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Its time for a rebuild...backfires are caused by a "lean" condition, which means not enough fuel. The oil burning is caused by excessive wear in the cylinder/rings. And the issue with the rod being melted to the crank, well that my friend is lack of lubrication.
remove recoil cut off old rope take new rope burn end till pointy push threw recoil and into hole in pulley tie knot on pully side add handle pull string between pully and outer shell rotate pully counterclockwise 4 times with rope you puled from out in between pull access back out of the housing till tight release or go to a shop they normally only charge ten bucks
The usual cause of milky white oil is water. It can come from a cooling system if so equipped or oil contaminated with water before it was added to the motor. It's possible to get water in the crank case from condensation or water getting the motor if it's left out in the rain but this usually results in small amounts of water that easily evaporate when the motor gets hot. Use a good motor flush and change your oil then watch it closely. If it gets white again you'll have to find out where the water is coming from.
The filter housing will have either a shut off valve before and after the housing or a valve on top of the housing that turns (Black). Shutoffs before and after. 1. Turn both valves off 2. Push the "red button" on top of filter housing and hold to relieve the pressure off housing. 3. Unscrew housing to the left (lefty loosey, Righty tighty) You should have a housing wrench. 4. Remove filter, clean housing, lubricate the o-ring with silicone lubricant. 5. Replace filter, Screw housing back on (Hand tighten only) 6. Open inlet valve (slightly) while holding down the "red button" to relieve air in housing. 7. Open inlet and outlet valves and you are back in business.
PS if the housing is very difficult to remove. 1. Shut off inlet valve 2. Open the nearest cold water faucet and let it run until no water 3. Shut off outlet and repeat procedure as above Good Luck, RJ 5.
The Culliagan manual does not specify clockwise/counterclockwise, but what that means is its implied to be counterclockwise. If you're using the "Big Blue HD-950" filter housing, then you'll also want the Culligan SW-3 Filter Housing Wrench. But a HUGE pair of Channellock pliers would also work (while leaving behind a few teeth marks in the plastic housing). reference: https://www.filtersfast.com/P-Culligan-HD950-Water-Filter-Housing.asp
Hello. The manufacturer's suggested method is to place the tool against the wall so that the "flats" fit into the corner resting against the wall. Then you push along the seam gathering the excess into the "shovel" area. check out this link for a visual: http://www.plasplugs.co.uk/tiling-silicone-sealant-finisher.html While this works, it does lead to some possible issues.
Firstly, if you're like me, you will have a fair bit more silicone/acrylic in the joint then the paddle will hold. Every time you remove and re-apply the paddle, you will get "ripples" in the seam. Here's a few tricks for these tools that I've learned along the way. And incidently, these work for other silicone tools as well.
A margarine container (or similar) half full of water and a moderate squirt of dish detergent in it. Use warm/hot water first, and squirt after. You want a solution, not bubbles. Dip your tool often, this will make it easier to clean/use, and does not affect the material.
Have plenty of rags handy... they do come in handy.
Clean and/or wipe the tool regularly. Material that sits for too long begins to cure and will be noticed in your work.
When using a push style tool, do manageable areas and back-drag. Once you've applied and cleaned one seam for instance, clean and dip the tool, then drag the profile backwards along the seam. This will smooth out any "ripples that have occurred.
Hope this helps you out. Please remember to rate this if it has. Thank you. Richard
Clean the ball joints with a dry rag and examine the rubber seals. If
the seals are cracked or torn the ball joints must be replaced Place a dial indicator against the lowest point on the wheel rimPlace one hand on the top of the tire and one hand on the bottom. Pull out on the top and push in on the bottom. Record the reading on the dial indicator.Compare the readings. If the difference is greater than 0.125 inches. The ball joints should be replaced
Yes you should be able to replace this yourself and yes you should be able to use filters from other manufactures. Just check rating on the filter for listing of applications. To change the filter there should be a bypass valve on water line to filter. You normally push a button that routes water around the filter. There should be a spanner wrench to grasp casing of filter housing to loosen it.There also should be a small button on top of the filter housing to push down to relieve pressure to make it easier to remove filter housing.
I would make sure that you can get the right filter before doing anything. If you have what you need than bypass or shut water supply off,remove filter housing ,install new filter.Clean o-ring seals and put light coating of petrolem jelly on o-rings. Reassemble and tighten snugly.Turn water back on and open bypass,check for leaks and tighten a little more if needed. Thank you.
The best way to get it off is as follows. 1. Turn the incoming water off. 2. Open the closest cold water faucet and let it run until pressure is relieved. 3. Close the outlet of pre-filter housing. 4. Push the pressure relief button and hold it down until no more water comes out. 5. Use the filter housing wrench to unscrew housing. 6. If it is still hard to take off repeat steps 2-5. 7. Clean the housing and o-ring, lubricate the threads of housing and head with silicone lube or plumbers faucet lube. Lubricate the o-ring with same. 8. Replace filter 9. Only tighten the by hand NOT with wrench. 10. Turn water back on and hold pressure relief button to bleed off air.
The number one reason for filter housings being so hard to get off is people tightening the filter housing with a wrench when re-installing it.
i have been a carpenter for 20 plus yrs and only 3 times was it actually from a house settling. I never put joint compound over caulk. this is a recipe for disaster. If you have tall ceilings and walls the cracks could be from wind sheer. If not it can only be the installation of the drywall and the original taping that was done. if the sheet rock was hung with nails and not screws, that explains it all. sheet rock will pull through the nails from its own weight. that is why you never hear the term screw pops. It will be alot of work to go back and screw the walls and ceilings off but you will be able to fill the nail holes and they will stay filled once the rock quits moving