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Oct 01, 2008

- Before checking the drain hose, unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The drain hose and recirculation hoses can be responsible for leaks. The drain hose can cause the dishwasher to fail to drain properly. The recirculation hose can be responsible for problems with poor rinsing of dishes.
To access the drain hose remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.
The drain hose connects to the pump and runs to the sink drain (or to the air gap on top of the sink). The pump has a second hose that recirculates the water back into the dishwasher. The drain hose is roughly 1 1/2 inches in diameter. While inspecting the drain hose, check the recirculation hose as well.
If checking for leaks, feel the hoses where they connect to the pump, for wetness and check the ground right under the connections. If they are wet, it may be a loose or improperly mounted clamp, a damaged pump housing or a leak in the hose itself.
If checking for blockages, disconnect the drain hose from the pump, pinch the wire clamp with pliers and slide it up the hose. Place a shallow pan beneath the pump to catch any spillage. Remove the hose from the pump; wiggling the hose may help to loosen it.
Check the hose and nipple to the pump for any debris. The only way to be certain the drain hose is completely clear is to disconnect it from the sink and run water through (such as spraying a garden hose through it at full pressure). Disconnect the recirculation hose and check it in the same way.
Reconnect the hoses and replace the clamps. Replace the lower panel and restore electricity to the dishwasher.

Oct 01, 2008

- Before testing the drain valve assembly, unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Dishwashers either have a single direction motor or a reversing motor. Only those with a single direction motor have a drain valve. Models with a reversing motor, pump the water out of the dishwasher when the motor runs in the reverse direction. If your motor has two or three wires, it is a single direction motor. If the motor has four wires, it is a reversing motor and you can skip this article.
To access the drain valve remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.
The drain valve is typically near the motor although it can be located elsewhere. Look for a water hose running from the motor or underside of the tub. The hose should lead to the drain valve. The valve consists of the the gate arm mechanism and a solenoid (also called a coil). The gate arm allows the water to flow out of the dishwasher's tub through the drain valve. You should be able to move the gate arm up and down easily and smoothly. The gate arm also has two springs attached to it. If either of the springs is missing or damaged, they should be replaced.
The gate arm mechanism is engaged by the drain valve solenoid. The solenoid is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the solenoid before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connector off of the solenoid's terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the solenoid for resistance using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 40 ohms when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 40 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Oct 01, 2008

- Before testing the timer motor, unplug the dishwasher or shut off the power at the fuse box or breaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The timer motor regulates the length of time power is routed to each component. If the timer motor does not function properly, it can result in a wide range of problems. Common symptoms include sticking in a cycle, cycle times running too long, or failure of the dishwasher to start at all.
To service the timer motor, it is necessary to access the control panel in the door. Access varies by model; on some models you can remove just the control panel on others you must remove the interior or exterior panel of the door
Start with the door closed and locate any screws on the front that must be removed. Usually there are one or two screws near the latch; do not remove the latch itself unless necessary. Now open the door and remove the screws near the top. In the photo below, the screws labeled "B" secure the control panel on some dishwashers. Start with the "B" screws and attempt to remove the control panel. Check for screws along the top of the door as well.
continued from page 1 Start with the door closed and locate any screws on the front that must be removed. Usually there are one or two screws near the latch; do not remove the latch itself unless necessary. Now open the door and remove the screws near the top. In the photo below, the screws labeled "B" secure the control panel on some dishwashers. Start with the "B" screws and attempt to remove the control panel. Check for screws along the top of the door as well.

If the control panel cannot be removed, then it is necessary to remove the entire door panel. Remove the screws along both edges of the door (labeled "A" and "B" above). There may be several screws near the bottom of the door that secure the door to the door hinge mechanism, it should not be necessary to remove these screws. Carefully lift the panel off from the door. The panel may have wires connected, so check before lifting the panel out too far. If the panel does not lift out, check for other screws.
Remove the control panel cover to expose the door's control components. It may be held in place with additional screws or clips.







Locate the timer motor. If you find two motors, the second is the rapid advance motor which operates when the wash cycle is canceled or reset. If you cannot determine which motor is the timer motor, test them both.
The round motor housing has two wires extending from it. Follow the wires to the terminal connections.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multitester to test for continuity Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1000. Touch one probe to each wire. A reading in the range of 2,000 to 3,500 ohms is normal for most dishwashers. If a schematic of your dishwasher can be located, it should indicate the proper resistance for your timer motor. The schematic may be in one of the service areas of your dishwasher or your owner's manual. If your measurement varies substantially from normal range, the timer should be replaced.

timer mech

timer motor


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