I have had the PCB replaced before under warranty, now that'a expired and think it needs replacing again as red LED door light flashes all the time. I turn it off at the mains now when not using! It runs through the washing cycle as normal, so could I just leave it? I cleaned out filter as machine getting a bit wiffy. Any suggestions welcome....
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You're absolutely right. If you look at the wiring diagram on the machine it is clear that the drain pump is powered by triac on PCB (part code C00270972).
I think it is definitely safer and probably cheaper to replace than to repair the PCB.
It is always a good practice to visually inspect PCBs that there are no visible defects such burnt out elements, etc. before replacing. Sometimes the reason for burnout PCB may be on a completely different side.
HI, Check back of washe with a flashlight for a bent or clogged drain hose. Do not move washer to check it. When you move it , it will straighten out and you will never know if it was bent Also while it is pumping , pick up end of drain hose at drain and observe the volume of water being pumped. If no water then the Pump may need replaced Thank you for using fixya Leo Ponder Please rate me if this helped
It seems that a common error code on Indesit washing machines is error code 7. This code can show itself as F 007 or with washing machines that have a rotating control dial the door lock light can flash in cycles of seven times. This error code usually means, “heater relay stuck”. The heater is switched on via a relay built into the main PCB. This relay is known to get jammed causing error code 7. In my experience this has usually meant a new PCB needed fitting and as the PCB comes without the main processor EEPROM chip one of those is needed also. This repair is going to be expensive. I have heard anecdotally of engineers freeing off the jammed relay by giving it a firm tap. However, I would not expect such a repair to last as the chances are the relay would just get stuck again later on. If a washing machine is still under the five-year parts warranty it would be cheaper to let the manufacture fit these parts but although the parts would be free the labour is going to be about £90.
One of the main problems with Indesit front loaders ( apart from replacing the door interlock switch) is
If the door will not close and click in the lock, then take the door off with a tork screwdriver and take the screws of the inner plastic off the door (make sure you do this on a flat surface) and gently prize off the inner plasic by running round a flat head screwdriver..
Once you have taken off the door and glass bowel - check out the door catch to see if a metal rod has come out of its housing holding the catch and spring in place and refit or replace.
I have come across many door catches like this.
from the looks of it, this is called an f12
lights 1&2, communication error which seems to be quite common. I've got the same problem. If there's nothing in your filter, it could be the pcb (apparently, according to the research I've done so far). Quite expensive apparently (£200?), but these machines don't seem very reliable, lots of people on the web having problems.
try turning the timer knob/programme selector dial round to a black dot, switch appliance off then back on again. the red light should flash once, then pause, then twice then pause then three times. the appliance should now be reset and your door should open, if not there could be a fault on the main pcb control unit.
hope this helps
I think its a 'front Loader'? Take the back panel off, to expose the main drive belt & pulley. When fitting the new belt it needs stretching by first putting it around the motor drive shaft & easing on to the main pulley whilst gradually rotatng the pulley. You need to finish up with the belt in the centre of both of the pulleys if possible