How do i poisition the gaskets on the valves in a champion air compressor mod.r15b

I'm sorry, but I can't provide visual images or diagrams. However, I can describe the general order of gaskets in a 1999 Dodge Durango engine from the top going down:

1. Valve Cover Gaskets: These gaskets are located on top of the cylinder heads and seal the valve covers. They help prevent oil leaks from the top of the engine.
2. Intake Manifold Gasket: The intake manifold gasket seals the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. It helps maintain proper air-fuel mixture and prevents vacuum leaks.
3. Throttle Body Gasket: If equipped, the throttle body gasket seals the connection between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It ensures proper airflow into the engine.
4. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: These gaskets are located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder heads. They seal the exhaust gases and prevent leaks.
5. Head Gaskets: The head gaskets are situated between the cylinder heads and the engine block. They seal the combustion chambers and coolant passages.
6. Oil Pan Gasket: The oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine and seals the oil pan to the engine block. It prevents oil leaks from the oil pan.
7. Front and Rear Main Seals: These seals are located at the front and rear of the engine crankshaft. They prevent oil leaks where the crankshaft exits the engine block.
8. Timing Cover Gasket: If equipped, the timing cover gasket seals the timing chain or belt cover to the engine block. It helps protect the timing components and prevents oil leaks.

This is not a "drive way" repair... you need to do one of two things.. sometimes you can get a connector that can replace the spark plug to keep air pressure in the cylinder (THAT CYLINDER MUST BE AT TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!) that will keep the valves closed..( YOU MUST HAVE A LARGE HIGH PRESSURE-HIGH FLOW AIR COMPRESSOR!!!)..now you can remove the valve springs one at a time (have a way to compress the springs??) ..and replace the valve stem seals..one at a time.. IF you DO NOT have the tools to accomplish this, --- YOU CAN REMOVE THE HEADS.. hold the valves in place and remove the valve springs.. and then change the seals, you must have a valve spring compressor to accomplish this.
Does this seem like something you can do..?? If you have never done this??.. PLEASE just pay a qualified professional to change them!! You will need intake gaskets, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals.. maybe the valves will need re-seating..just to name a few things... get the idea...

plugs for 350 block , 4 barrel carby 1967-19710 is j12yc
all plug descriptions have a series of letters number and letters..you can download the champion chart from the champion plug site
it works like--- this any plug that will screw in the hole will provide a spark
you have to measure the thread length in the head as the plug thread cannot be longer or shorter that that length
next the sealing is by taper or copper gasket so the plug will require the same as is in the head ( flat or taper ) whether the electrode protrudes or not depends on the application ( High speed engine etc)
there are factors that come into it as well like the heat range ---cold plugs for new engines and hot plugs for worn engines to burn the oil

Could be a burnt valve , broke piston rings . blown head gasket ! You need to do a cylinder leak down test to see where it's leaking ! You take air pressure from an air compressor an put it into the hole the spark plug goes into , an listen where the air is escaping from , exhaust tail pipe - burnt exhaust valve . Air bubbles in radiator - head gasket . How To Perform Leak Down Test EricTheCarGuy

First stepwould typically be to replace the PCV valve. It's located behind the valve cover at the bottom of the rubber tube that connects to the back of the valve cover and branches off to the air filter housing.

Alternate possibility:

If the head gasket has been replaced, it's likely one of the oil returns is blocked (replacement head gaskets, for whatever reason, don't usually align with the head correctly). The solution is to open the secondary oil return. I used a one foot piece of 4 gauge bare copper wire (more of a 1/4" copper rod). Remove the valve cover. Taper the end of the copper wire to a blunt point and drive it about 6 inches down the oil return on the backside of the head near the rear of the head (directly behind where the oil filler cap was).

Yes,the copper rings are the gaskets....

old school-- new school- sealant is sealant no 2 has advanced to a rtv silicone sealant the copper was probably the permatex -copper hi temp spray but u can still find and use no 2 there is no special just make sure everything is clean and dry and when using sealant let set up a bit and put in place

Basically, remove anything that obstructs the cover and will prevent the easy removal and reinstallation.

In dealing with the main part, preparing and sealing the valve cover:

NOTE: some engines use jusr RTV as the gasket itself, others use a gasket and a coating of RTV. The amount of RTV is the difference and without a gasket, it is necessary to allow the thicker bead of RTV to set up longer before applying the two pieces together and installing the bolts.

On to the standard valve cover with a gasket.

If the cover is not a cast material, then make sure you turn the cover upside down and carefully flatten any overtightened spots where it is bolted to the head. You want the gasket area smooth and clean of any wax, oil, grease, or debris. You also want the mounting surface to be clean of oils and grease, etc., and smooth before installing the new gasket.

New gaskets leak due to improper surface prep more than any other reason!

Once the mating surfaces are clean, place the valve cover against the area it mounts to, without the gasket to make sure it isn't warped or bent causing other problems, if it's straight, apply RTV to the Valve Cover first, then installing the gasket into that part after letting the RTV sit for a minute or two you can apply the RTV to the bottom side where it will mate to the engine surface, just a thin coat should be fine, allow it to set a minute or two after making a smooth sealing surface and install. (I prefer Copper Plus for valve covers, it's orange Hi-Temp and seals well)

Do not overtighten the valve cover mounting bolts/nuts. They only get tightened to "snug", not to a torque setting as it will bend the valve cover, causing leaks. Tighten from the middle bottom, then top, then work from left to right outwards keeping the pressure even and only making things snug.

Once done, allow engine to sit a few hours for the RTV to set up after reassembling the items you had to remove to gain clearance.

If the surfaces were clean and smooth, the gasket had a light coat of
RTV on both sides-there is no reason for any leakage due to the gasket. After letting the RTV set, re-tighten, or snug the mounting bolts again, start the engine and warm up, shouldn't have any leaks. Once cool, re-check the same mounting bolts to make sure they are evenly snug.

(Things change after heat is applied and then they cool, this is just preventative maintanance)

A Vacuum gauge will identify any exhaust problems/restrictions that would cause gaskets to leak, should you encounter leakage soon after repairs.

Good luck.

1995 Geo Truck Tracker 4WD 1.6L TBI SOHC 4cyl
The PCV Valve is located under hood, center, upper engine area, top of engine, mounted in passenger side of intake manifold.

The low gas mileage and the versatility that your 1995 through 1999 Geo Tracker offers are two benefits of owning it. The maintenance needs to be kept up on your Geo Tracker. One form of this maintenance is to replace the valve cover gasket once you have driven 100,000 miles or more.

1. Allow your engine to cool. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air inlet hose and air intake case or air cleaner housing. Detach the PCV valve hose from the PCV valve. Separate and remove the spark plug wires and the accelerator cable from their clips.
   
2. Loosen and remove the valve cover bolts. Lift the cover up and off. Using a flathead screwdriver, gently nudge the gasket out of the gasket seating area. Using automotive engine cleaner and a clean cloth rag, clean the gasket seating area.
   
3. Place the new gasket in the gasket seating area. Put the cover back into place. Put the bolts in and then using a torque wrench tighten them. Do not over tighten the bolts or the gasket will not fit correctly. Reconnect the spark plug wires and the accelerator cable in the holding clips.
   
4. Reconnect the rubber hose to the PCV valve. Install the air intake case, or air cleaner housing, and the air inlet hose. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Add oil to the car and start the engine. Allow the car to run 10 to 15 minutes. This will allow the oil to lubricate the engine while it moves to the top.
   

I hope helps with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

This is probably a head gasket problem and not an oil cooler problem.

The oil cooler is fairly easy to test.

Remove the cooler from the engine but do not disconnect cooling lines and then pressurize the cooling system. You can use a radiator test tool to put pressure on the cooling system and look for leaks. If it leaks, replace it.

You may also be able to bypass the oil cooler altogether if it leaks.

The head gasket is another story.

Get a 1/4" pipe to spark plug fitting and put a male air coupling fitting in it.

Then you can charge the cylinders with air from your compressor.

Make sure each cylinder that you test is at top dead center so that the valves are closed.

If air bubbles into your coolant, you found your problem.

If air leaks out your intake you have a bad intake valve

If air leaks out your exhaust you have a bad exhaust valve etc.


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Tim