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Re: Proceedure to winterize washer
HI thanks for your question. the easiest way is to. pour plumbers anti freeze in it 1 gallon should do it . thanks the appliance doc. oh, start it up in the wash cycle for a few minutes, to cycle the water.
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Thats not something that's done on a regular basis, but I would get anti-freeze for potable water from either a camper place or sometimes Walmart has it. It's made from beet juice so it's not hazardous. I would just pour it into the bottom of the washer until it looks like the pump is filled up
my suggestion would be to use your best judgement after opening the can and stirring it up. If after mixing it the consistency is good I would use it. If it was sealed up tight after last used and its not all clumpy after you mix it test it out by applying a little and see what you think.
Hello Gerry, There are two (2) ways to accomplish this. The easiest is to get some RV anti-freeze (enviromentally safe version) and put that into the bottom of the dishwasher as per the instructions. Then when you return in the Spring, just run an empty rinse cycle to purge the dishwasher of the anti-freeze solution.
The other method will require you to remove (pull out from under the cabinet) the dishwasher and (with power turned off!) disconnect the sump pump boot to drain the residual water out of the unit. In some models, there is a small drain plug that you can remove to drain the water out of the bottom sump (pump) section of the dishwasher.
Good that you thought of this, as many folks forget that leaving water in their appliances in freezing conditions can cause some major headaches from burst pipes, pumps, etc. if they aren't properly winterized for the freezing temperatures they'll get in an unheated building.
hi there.......best to remove it from its position at the end of your summer vacation....drain it completley..of all water.....pack it into a container (large cardboard box etc) lined with polysterene etc....
Hello, your problem is going to be with the inlet valve, there is a solonied on top of the valve that has shorted out, the way to test this diagnosis is remove the panel at the bottom of the dishwasher..locate the inlet valve normally on the front left under the washer, remove the 2 wires from the valve (being sure to cut the power off to the dishwasher while you do this step) using a volt meter isert the probes into the connectors on the wire then turn power back on, now run a wash..after a minute or so you should see 110v on the volt meter...if this happens your valve is bad you will have to pull the dish washer out and replace the valve. Good Luck!!! If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike
When I used a mirror and light to discover that there was no c-ring or o-ring in the bottom groves of the disherwasher, I tried to fit the washer on the shaft to determine what size I should buy. The fit was too tight to be a washer. I discovered that what I thought was a washer was really some kind of compression "washer" which acted like a c-ring or o-ring that would hold the sprayer back in place. The "washer" had one side worn and one side with a slight grove. I removed the top sprayer assembly from the upper cabinet which was attached with two screws. I put the worn side against the sprayer. I then put the washer in place and used a nut driver (to protect the center shaft and allow me to still put pressure on the washer) and a hammer to safely hammer on the nut driver to put the washer back into place. Held fine though my load last night so it should stay.
remove the lower kick panel inside the washer is a float that goes through the bottom of the tub look under the washer and make sure the end of the safety float rod is on top of the safety float micro switch if its not it wont fill if that don't do it let me know we will trouble shoot the rest but that is probably it