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The original relay switch has 3 terminal contacts on the compressor side. On the wiring side it has 4 contacts... 2 are start capacitor connections and two at the bottom of the relay are the A/C 110-125 volt line in connections. The replacement part you bought is a genericreplacement for the ref. The correct substitute part is W10189190 . The two wires for the original relay in the top horizonal position evenly spaced apart... ignore the 2 wires. They are wires to the old start capacitor mounted somewhere near the compressor. The other two wires are important to configure them properly. One may be blue and the other red. Here is a cheap way to know which is the right configuration... Use a volt ohmmeter and check the continuity from the refrigerator ground terminal on the A/C line cord or chassis to both A/C line in wire connections to the relay. If the ohms are zero or very near to zero then that is the ground/ aka neutral wire. The neutral wire connects to the bi-metal overload protector built into the relay. That is the bottom center connection terminal on the compressor. The other A/C line in wire is the hot wire and it connects to the Start/ Run connection on the new relay. http://www.appliancezone.com/ShowProduct.aspx?ID=28271
Good day, The compressor has three terminals sticking out of it. Forming a triangle. The bottom left is the start terminal, the center top is the common terminal, and the bottom right is the run terminal. You have 2 wires going to the compressor. The relay connects the bottom left to the bottom right. One of the 2 power wires goes to the bottom right side of the relay. The other power wire goes to the overload, which in turn is connected to the top center (common terminal).
If you cannot connect the parts with these instructions, don't go any further. Take your parts to the supply house where you bought them and let them explain in detail.
a 3 in one start relay usually runs about $75 and it is not that difficult to replace if you are sure that this is the problem there is also the chance that the compressor could be damaged. you do not want to replace just the relay as there is also an overload circuit the 3 in 1 starters have everything in it and good instructions as far as which wire goes where you have 2 wires for 120 volt in and then three connection on the compressor
can you describe the relay to me?
the most common relay does have a specific place for the wire to plug onto. hold the relay with the holes that plug into the compressor upright and facing you. now turn the relay so that you are looking at the spade connectors(remember that the holes should still be upright) either one of the spades on the right side is the correct one to plug into.
if this doesnt sound like your relay message me back with a better description or a part number thx peyton
The guide that funnels the water into the ice maker needs to be replaced. The cause of your problem is that water is leaking into the back, freezing there, and blocking the air flow. Mine sounded like an idling semi truck with engine problems.
Check you defrost timer and rotate the clutch screw in a clockwise direction slowly. If that doesn't start it try the cold control and check across the wires to see it there is continuity. If it reads open then you have a bad control. If the first item made it run from the timer you need a new timer.