Need left hand metric bolt for alton #01213-25 motor

There are a few sizes of pedals that are standard. If it is one of these sizes , you can get the replacements at a bike shop , a hardware store ( True value , Ace , Etc . ) , or even a store like Meijers , or Walmart . The things you need to know are bolt size ( SAE , or metric , thread pitch , and is one a right hand , and the other a left hand thread . ) ( It is most likely metric , and one right , and one left hand thread ) .
DO NOT FORCE THE SHAFTS . IF THEY DON'T TURN IN EASILY , THEY ARE THE WRONG SIZE . IF YOU ATTEMPT TO FORCE THEM , YOU WILL RUIN THE CRANK SHAFT , AND NOT BE ABLE TO RETURN THE PEDALS FOR THE RIGHT SIZE .

the beauty of imperial measured bolts is that there are only 2 threads for each size bolt
so if it is 7/16 bolt it will be either unf or unc one thread is fine (unf and most likely) and one is course (unc)
however if it is mtd make it could be running metric in which case the bolt will be ( if 7/16) 11.11 mm in which case the thread can be 1.25 or 1.5 or 1.75 pitch
might have to talk to a mower shop that sells mtd and get the size bolt from them

Rear Brake Caliper
For FLD Models remove the right saddlebag.
For ABS equipped Models remove the cable strap securing the wheel speed sensor cable to the rear brake hose at the caliper.
Loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap to allow air to escape and help prevent contamination and to help prevent brake fluid from squirting out of the reservoir if the pistons are retracted too much or too quickly and as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper, fluid level may rise above the available space and fluid may have to be removed to allow for this.

THEN loosen, but do not remove the metric pad pin, remove the mounting bolt and slider pin, pull the rear caliper away from the brake disc, remove the brake pad pin and the brake pads. THEN using the old brake pad and a C-clamp, retract the pistons fully into the caliper, inspect the pad pin for grooving and wear, measure the pad pin diameter in an unworn area and then in the area of any visible grooving or wear and if wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm), replace the worn pin. THEN inspect the torque clip and replace it if it is worn or damaged, inspect the anti-rattle spring and replace it if it is worn or damaged. THEN install new brake pads and the brake pad pin noting that the tab must engage the clip in the caliper housing. THEN tighten the pad pin to 80-120 in-lbs (9.0-13.6 Nm). THEN re-install the caliper the mounting bolt and slider pin and tighten to 16-20 ft-lbs (21.7-27.1 Nm). If ABS equipped next secure the wheel speed sensor cable to the rear brake hose with a cable strap near the caliper. THEN pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until both brake pads contact the rotor, check the brake fluid level in master cylinder and adjust the fluid to the proper
level if necessary using DOT 4 BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm). For FLD Models install right saddlebag. Test Brakes. If on the road test of the ride the motorcycle the brakes feel spongy then properly bleed the system until you get a hard pedal and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to become conditioned to the brake discs.


Front Brake Caliper
First remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise above the recommended 1/8-3/8 in (3.2-9.5 mm) below the gasket surface and fluid may need to be removed
to allow for this. THEN loosen, but do not remove the metric brake pad pin/bridge bolt, remove both metric caliper mounting bolts, detach the caliper from the front forks and the brake disc, pry the brake pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores. Note that the brake pads have tabs that are clipped onto the pad springs so you will need to disengage the tabs from the pad springs as you remove the pads. THEN with the pistons retracted remove the pad pin/bridge bolt
and remove brake pads, inspect the pin/bridge bolt for grooving and wear and measure the pad pin diameter in an unworn area, and then in any area of visible grooving or wear and if there is wear greater than 0.015 in. (0.38 mm) replace the pad pin/bridge bolt, verify that the pad spring tabs on the brake pad engages the pad springs in the pistons. THEN install newpads into the caliper with the directional facing down when the caliper is installed to avoid possible bake noise if the tabs are not so oriented down.

If ABS equipped, follow instructions and procedures inAppendix C.
THEN loosely install the center pad pin/bridge bolt, attach the caliper to the front fork placing it over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upward, loosely install the long metric mounting bolt into the upper hole on the fork leg, install the short metric mounting bolt into the lower hole on fork leg and tighten it to 28-38 ftlbs (38.0-51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.0-51.5 Nm), final tighten the center pad pin/bridge bolt to 15-16 ft-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm) and then pump brake hand lever to move the pistons fully out into contact with the brake pads and verify the piston location against the pads. If the front wheel is off the ground, rotate the wheel to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and if necessary fill it to the proper level using only D.O.T. 4 BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm) and then test the operation of the brake system and turn the ignition switch ON and pump the brake hand lever to ensure proper operation of the brake lamp.
If on the road test of the ride the motorcycle the brakes feel spongy then properly bleed the system until you get a hard pedal and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to become conditioned to the brake discs.

You may find a turnbuckle with that thread as they are all made in china now. That will get you the thread , then you will need to fashion something to take the place of the bolt head.

Or you can contact the manufacturer. Much of the new imported stuff has real cheap parts.

Care to explain what your doing & why your having trouble

Yes ,you need aTorx Socket Driver or Metric Hex Socket Driver
to remove the speed sensor bolt

The 4 Hub bolts are tight, because they have a special blue
thread locker on them

yes sometimes the bolts are left handed thread. What you can try is find a metric socket that starts to go on to the nut and tap it the rest of the way on the nut with a mallet then try to unloosen the bolt.

You can get anything you want at Sears Hardware,
some auto parts store, lots of different type businesses
have metric bolts
You don't pay $8 a bolt

You should know how to measure a bolt and be able
to tell metric diameter,thread pitch,length etc. If you
can't your in trouble, if you plan on working on any vehicle
made since 1980

Measure the dia,divide by .0395 to get metric

Example: Wheel Nuts 3/4" or .750 divided by .0395=19mm
So I use a 19 mm socket on all wheel removal

O2 Sensors .875 divide by .0395=22mm wrench

Oct,11/10,, First you need to know it the item is European or Japanese which all use Metric threads. If it is USA it probably uses Imperial threads which are fine or course. England (British) also have fine and course but not interchangable because thread angles are different. Anything of Japan older than 1967 also uses Metric but not the same metric as 1968 and newer. In 1967 there was a world conferance that was "ISO" international standard organization. Some Metric stayed the same but in small sizes under 6 MM, the 5s, 4s, and 3 were changed and all these have a tiny raised or indented dot to tell you they are the new thread. Some motorcycle parts use special not common threads to prevent you from using a cheap poor qualiy nuts or bolts that might fail when in use ( steering parts or brake parts on a car). Occasionally you might use too long of a bolt or screw and it may extend and break something else. Before 1901 most mechanice were called FITTERS because there was not many standard parts and everything had to be fitted. Henry Ford helped make things interchangable so we call them standard parts. If you could give some rough dimentions of the screw ( 3/16" long by 1/8"...or 5 mm by 13 mm long,,, or other American sizes are size 6X32 or 8x32 and different lengths. This would help. Can you find some old fellow that lives on a farm and he might be a mechanic and can figure what you need. Good luck, EEL

It's std thread place your 3/8" socket wrench at three o'clock position on the bolt....the handle pointing to the right side panel. Hold the Clutch Pulley with your left hand and pull toward you. This is CW rotation of the socket wrench toward the front of the machine. You have to hold the Clutch Pulley from turning. leave the drive belt on. It's right Hand thread I tried to describe CW rotation of the bolt to loosen.


My last post here good luck.... Sorry if I caused any confusion with this post Clutch repair post

The screw is a LEFT HAND THREAD and also is LIKELY a Metric size!

Make sure you use a Metric Allen wrench.