Question about Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron
My iron is not heating up at all, the red light is coming on but no heat or steam, solutions anyone???
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
Thanks Fix..that helped for cleaning the seals in mine.
From working on mine and working with computers with water cooling, I would think the highest setting would be for steaming only and would keep the unit from shutting off. If you are using it without water or without constant movement on cool cloth i could see it overheat and shut off.
And mine came with a 1 year warranty, but Ive had it for over 3 and its this has been my first real complaint.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Unless you have a 5 or 6 hundred dollar iron, or unless it is brand new, and still under warranty, there is an excellent rule of thumb when an iron quits working: Buy a new one! These days, irons can be purchased cheaply enough that it is WELL worth the money. Not just for the convenience, but for the safety issues. This is an appliance that could burn your house down even if it's in PROPER working order. Hope this helps!!
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
Are you serious? These irons cost over a hundered bucks. They should not have these types of problems...at least not for a few years-if at all.
Posted on Nov 05, 2008
SOURCE: No steam
It appears that your rocker switch is broken, I am attempting to find a source for the switch and the screw driver that removes the screws holding the unit together
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 24, 2013 | Irons
Aug 19, 2008 | Tefal UltraGlide Easycord FV4256 Iron
Oct 15, 2013 | Rowenta Effective DX1900 Iron with Auto...
Jan 31, 2013 | Breville Vin227 Extreme Steam Steam...
Nov 22, 2010 | Tefal AquaSpeed FV5155003 Iron
Oct 25, 2010 | Black & Decker Steam Xpress AS250 Iron...
Jul 26, 2010 | Irons
May 18, 2010 | Black & Decker Steam Xpress AS250 Iron...
Mar 12, 2010 | Rowenta DG-980 Iron
4,473 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: