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Re: heat controller mini-split air conditioner
Check each screw on your compressor to ground (compressor case). Should be very high resistance Then check the resistance across your teminals on the compressor to be sure it is not shorted. Then check the wiring to your capacitor (The big one). I ran across this just last week. The mechanic didnt have the capicator wired correctly. If it is brand new it will have a wiring schematic somewhere on it.
Dont leave the compressor on very long, but turn it on long enough to get a voltage reading across the terminals. I assume it should be 240 volts. If you have check all of this, they make a jump start gadget to start a stuck compressor. They sell it just about everywhere. Let me know how this comes out..
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If there is 3 indoor units from one condensing unit
(6 pipes at outdoor unit) this is classed as a multi unit
All units will run correctly as long as they all require same mode, cooling or heating, if one unit decides to heat it will shut down until master unit decides to heat then it will start, for each unit to individually heat and cool there would have to be 3 pipes to each indoor,
First check your circuit breaker or fuse that supplies power to the outside unit. It's probably separate from the inside unit. Then try to turn unit on. If the fan and compressor just make a humming sound then turn it off and check the capacitor if you have a multimeter. You can also look at it and see if the top looks expanded. That's a good sign its bad, but not all bad one's look expanded. Tomorrow I will have access to an LG service manual and can let you know what the code means. Sorry I can't get it sooner. Let me know what you find.
The small copper line should not be really hot its supposed to be carrying liquid refrigerant which has already had the heat "pressed" out of it by the compressor and carried of by the air flowing over the condenser coil. This could indicate a few things; that your unit is overcharged, you have a mismatched evaporator coil and condenser, an ineffective condenser fan motor or a clogged condenser coil and as a result your compressor is shutting of due to an overload condition from the building heat and back pressure between the compressor outlet and the evaporator inlet.
First make sure your condenser is clean and that adequate air is flowing over the fins of the condenser coil. Then be sure your equipment is a matched system. A indication that your condenser fan motor is not at speed is slow starting a humming sound and excessive heat. In my experience this complaint is generally the result of a bad condenser fan motor that over heats and shuts of after a short period and the build up of heat in the liquid refrigerant line of course trips the compressor overload circuit- which by the way usually takes hours to reset. I hope you've already resolved this, but in case you haven't......