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The noise coming from the motor means it is running but cannot drive the drive pulley and the pump pulley because the drive belt is either broken or has slipped off. The drive pulley and the pump are driven by a single belt. Replace the drive belt if broken or loose and has slipped off. Disconnect power then drain the water manually by placing the end of the drain hose into a bucket or a shallow basin. Position the bucket/basin as low as possible to extract as much water from the tub. Once drained, lay the machine on its back to access the belt under the machine. When replacing the belt, wrap it on the motor and the pump pulleys then on the drive pulley. Turn the drive pulley in such a way that the belt wraps around the motor pulley, pump pulley, and the drive pulley.
It should be relatively easy. Turn off the circuit breaker at your home service panel first, but leave the unit plugged into the outlet to insure it remains "grounded" as these are very vulnerable to "ESD" or "elecro-static discharge". Unplug it ONLY if you are grounded or not sure of which breaker but make sure you are discharged of any static. ( wear a grounding strap is recommended ) I'd hate to see you injured or repairing electronic boards etc. Now you can remove the back panel and spin the belt off as you turn the large pulley ( for the basket & not the motor, this gives you the mechanical advantage ) as you would a bicycle chain. Be careful not to pinch you skin/fingers.
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It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
If it won't spin or drain water, you are right to look for a drive belt
related problem. The belt is underneath the bottom floor pan.
Here's what I did:
1) leaned the washer back a bit and propped something firm and secure under the front edge.
2) after seeing the belt was intact, I pulled it off, it is seven years old, and not too stiff.
3) After making sure no limbs were under or inside the machine, I had
my wife start the machine in the spin cycle and watched as one of the 2
smaller pulley's in the corners spun very quickly. This was the motor
pulley. Had my wife turn if off.
4) Attempted to turn each of the 3 pulleys that the belt had been wrapped
around. The large plastic transmission pulley in the center turned
with a little effort. The small metal pulley for the motor turned with
very little effort. The remaining metal pulley in another corner would
barely turn at all, and it should have been the easiest to turn. This
pulley was for the drain pump and was nearly seized up.
I'm sure this is my problem as it is a fairly common point of failure
and one of the most inexpensive repairs for the FIY'r. New drain pump
should be about $70-$90.
Hi, Most possible causes are:- 1.Make sure the lid is closed. There is a switch inside that completes the connection. Your washer may not spin or agitate if this connection is not completed. Make sure that the speed selector switch is not between speeds. Verify that the washer is not in a soak cycle. You can also reset the water level up or down to make sure that the water level control switch isn't stuck. If you hear a humming sound when the washer is full of water, you may have something stuck in the drain pump.
2.If one of these is not the problem, check the belt. The main drive motor has two distinct functions. The first function is to spin the basket; the second function is to reciprocate your agitator. Inside your washer's transmission is a crank type gear and connecting rods that are used to agitate the washer, with the spinning coming from the washer motor itself. This usually entails some sort of clutch mechanism. Some things to check if your washer is not agitating and/or spinning are:
3.If you notice weak or no agitation, the splines connecting the agitator to the drive shaft may be stripped and need to be replaced.
4.After a lot of use, belts can become worn or damaged. Replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it's not seized.
5.Sometimes the drive pulley can wear out and it won't turn the drive belt. Look for wear marks, pits, or uneven spots. It's best to just replace it with a new pulley.
6.Many washers use a reversing motor. Sometimes it will continue to work in one direction even if it won't spin in the other direction. If your washer has a drive motor issue, you probably need to replace the motor with a new one. 7.The lid switch is a safety device that's there to protect you from sticking your hands into a spinning washer. If this switch goes bad, the washer will not work. You will have to replace it. It is inside the main housing for the washer, and located near the door frame.
8.The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. After lengthy use, this plastic and rubber coupler can wear out. If this happens, you need to replace it.
9.Transmission and clutch assemblies can cause agitator and spinning problems They are fairly complex. Thanks!mannu_rakesh
Something is locked in the transmission--can you turn the inner tub manually? Also, try to turn the driven pulley (the motor and belt driven). The problem could be anything from a seized bearing to a broken gear. Don't keep trying the motor while things are locked up, you could burn it out.