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sounds like the humming may be the motor running. check to see if your drive belt is broken. a fairly easy and inexpensive fix. take top of dryer and see if belt is around drum. if broken it will not be there. if it is there, turn drum by hand and see if you get resistence or pull on belt and see if there is slack. belt may be off of drive pulley.
More than likely the pulley set screw is lose. Look on the inner hub of the pulley's both on the motor and the fan for a threaded hole with an allen head type of screw in it. Before you 'help' it to turn, look to see if one shaft of the other is spinning inside the pulley without the pulley itself turning. Buy a set of allen wrenches and tighten the screw. You may have to remove the belt to see the setscrew hole. It can be done by stretching it over the edge of the larger pulley and rotating it by hand. Put it back the same way. BTW make sure the power is OFF! fingers are still at a premium.
Sounds like a weak motor. You'll have to get a new motor installed. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install yourself on that type of machine if you are handy. Motor is located in the bottom right of the machine, attached to the drum belt through a small pulley underneath the drum next to the motor.
Could be a couple things causing this problem. If you can turn the durm by hand without much resistance then the belt may be too loose. This could be because the spring on the tension pully came off or the belt streached. The humming you hear is the motor spinning. If you cannot turn the drum by hand then something could be stuck between the drum and the frame of the dryer.
I would also check that the dryer is wired correctly, because low voltage could be causing the motor to hum but not turn.
It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
If it won't spin or drain water, you are right to look for a drive belt
related problem. The belt is underneath the bottom floor pan.
Here's what I did:
1) leaned the washer back a bit and propped something firm and secure under the front edge.
2) after seeing the belt was intact, I pulled it off, it is seven years old, and not too stiff.
3) After making sure no limbs were under or inside the machine, I had
my wife start the machine in the spin cycle and watched as one of the 2
smaller pulley's in the corners spun very quickly. This was the motor
pulley. Had my wife turn if off.
4) Attempted to turn each of the 3 pulleys that the belt had been wrapped
around. The large plastic transmission pulley in the center turned
with a little effort. The small metal pulley for the motor turned with
very little effort. The remaining metal pulley in another corner would
barely turn at all, and it should have been the easiest to turn. This
pulley was for the drain pump and was nearly seized up.
I'm sure this is my problem as it is a fairly common point of failure
and one of the most inexpensive repairs for the FIY'r. New drain pump
should be about $70-$90.
route the belt around the drum, pull the spring loaded idler pulley to the postion that requires you to hold it there..
put the belt : 1 through the motor pulley and around the idler pulley, or 2. around the idler pulley which ever works to keep the tensioner tight. (Idler pulley, tensioner same thing its the pulley not on the motor.
Once you put the belt on the durm, pull the idler pull so there is tension on it it should be clear how it goes.