I noticed the the Right side large burning was not lighting. It was sparking but very low to the side away from the gas entrance. The electode lokked also slightly tilted away from the burner. I could see a small haireline fracture in the ceranic coating. Clearly I need to replace the electrode. So my question is how do I do that? For safety I have disconnected the electrode
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Center burner won't light: If there is a bright spark (check all ignitor points at night with the lights out and look for consistent brightness of the sparks) then it's likely that the burner slots are dirty or the air/gas mix is wrong. If you can light with a match, but the spark won't light, then go for cleaning the entire burner assembly thoroughly with a brass bristle brush (available at most automotive stores). The proper air/gas mix has to flow over the spark to ignite. Weak spark, improper air/gas or misdirected gas flow that misses the spark can all cause this issue.
RR burner lights only on low setting. Again, check the air gas mix and clean all parts. Something like a small spider web inside the air mix chamber (area between the orifice and the burner can cause this and is difficult to see. Disassemble, clean thoroughly, reassemble and test. Extra low simmer burners (two on the left side) use their own control module with electric gas valves and variable electric control switches. The burner works on low, so these are not likely the problem.
Most folks want to find a bad part, and that can happen, but stove tops get dirty and cleaning usually helps. If not, you have a clean top to work on.
The indicator lens and/or the retainer are either broken or the retainer is missing. It's best to replace these as they are not expensive. When the top is off while cleaning is an perfect time to replace the lens.
Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.
I am going to assume you hear the "clicking" sound when you try to light the burner.
open the top of the stove. there are four burner. look at the one that is not lighting. use a straighten paper clip open the holes that is directlyin-front of the tube that is facing the center of ignitor.
also make sure that the air vent directly behind the knob is fully open.
One burner doesn't consistently light. Igniter sparks but not the same as the other - "good" burners spark at top of igniter and moves around to light, "bad" burner sparks toward the bottom and doesn't move much. I can use the burner by lighting with a match and it works fine. Have tried cleaning with a toothbrush without much success