I noticed the the Right side large burning was not lighting. It was sparking but very low to the side away from the gas entrance. The electode lokked also slightly tilted away from the burner. I could see a small haireline fracture in the ceranic coating. Clearly I need to replace the electrode. So my question is how do I do that? For safety I have disconnected the electrode
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Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.
I am going to assume you hear the "clicking" sound when you try to light the burner.
open the top of the stove. there are four burner. look at the one that is not lighting. use a straighten paper clip open the holes that is directlyin-front of the tube that is facing the center of ignitor.
also make sure that the air vent directly behind the knob is fully open.
is this a sealed burner unit? if so the burner base (the heavy brass part under the burner cap) has to be sitting just right. you will notice that it has holes around the the sides make sure that where your ignitor sparks to it that it aligns with the lowest hole on the burner base. if you have a great flame all around the burner after checking what i mentioned i would replace the spark module. if it continues to drive you crazy with the noise - just unplug it. the burners will continue working fine without power.
One burner doesn't consistently light. Igniter sparks but not the same as the other - "good" burners spark at top of igniter and moves around to light, "bad" burner sparks toward the bottom and doesn't move much. I can use the burner by lighting with a match and it works fine. Have tried cleaning with a toothbrush without much success