Engine cycles bike starts,engine light comes back on and I have no throttle, been trying to troubleshoot, need advise, it a 2008 streetglide

Try this:
Turn kill switch to ON/RUN position.Cycle the ignition(key) switch 4 times (each time long enough for engine light to go out ~15 seconds).
This resets the "zero" position of the Throttle for the ECM.

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sounds like fuel problem ! what bike have you got and is it carb or injectors , is it elec fuel pump or gravity fed and how old is the fuel in the tank ?

Another (slight) possibility is there wasn't a perfect connection between the battery terminal and the post of the battery.
By removing and replacing the battery, maybe you removed a little "gunk" inbetween the connection, and retightened everything up good.

Finally, the "check engine" light for 3-4 seconds "might" just be a glitch.
The best check is to pull the error codes (DTCs) and see what (if) the computer stored any errors.

If the bike is equipped with a carburetor, try not using the enricher (choke) so long. The enricher circuit in the carburetor is extremely rich. I see people let their bikes run for almost ten minutes with the enricher on and they can't figure out why they are fouling plugs. Only run the enricher until you can get the engine to run with the throttle. I use the throttle lock located on the underside of the throttle grip. Just idle the engine up that about 1500-1700 RPM, turn the enricher off, and tighten the little knob just enough to hold the throttle and keep the engine running until it warms up. Prevents you from fouling plugs. If this is not the case or you have fuel injection on your bike, you may need to take it to a qualified mechanic. I don't advise tearing into your carb or fuel injection unless you know what you're doing.

Good Luck
Steve

If by "back fires" you are talking about the engine spitting back through the intake, this is because the engine's fuel mixture is too lean for the conditions. If the engine is cold, this is common. If it's doing it once the engine reaches full operating temperature, it's an indication that he fuel air mixture is too lean. They often come from the factory jetted or tuned to run very lean so that the bikes can meet the EPA's emission regulations. Take the bike to a performance oriented shop that has a dynometer and an exhaust gas analyzer. Have them run it up and check the fuel air mixture and they can advise you what you need to do to make your bike run better and cooler.

Good Luck
Steve

sounds like the security system.

Tyr cleaning your cluch cables might need new onews

BAD STARTER SWITCH

I don't know too much about the oil pumps in the Twin Cam engines. I have never worked with one of them but I've got extensive experience with the older type pump used on the Shovelheads and Evolution engines.

A Harley engine employs a high volume low pressure oiling system. The old Shovelheads would actually show no oil pressure when idling hot with most gauges. The oil pressure switch would cut the light off at four pounds of oil pressure. A Harley engine will not hold a lot of oil pressure because the engine is built using roller bearings instead of shell bearings.

As long as the tappets are not rattling, you don't have a problem with oil pressure. If your oil pressure drops too low, the tappets are hydraulic and they will rattle like hell. There will be no doubt in your mind as to the problem.

Now, back to your question as to why the oil pressure on your bike drops when accelerating under a load, I have no idea.

Good Luck!
Steve