I have an under ground water leak where they conected a tee for an outside water hydrant, The hydrant is about ten feet from the main line and I think its leaking at the tee. What can expect to find when I dig it up and what will I need to fix it? Hope you can help sincerly Norm
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Re: broken or leaking under ground water line
Norm, I expect you will find a one inch or three quarter inch pvc line running from the meter or pump to your house. If you dig fie feet fore and aft of the affected area you should have enough flexibility in the lines to make the repairs. Yoou will probably nee two to three slip by slip couplings and a tee and elbow of the appropriate size and a short length of pipe. It really depends on where the break is but more then likely it has occurred just behind the hub of the tee. You can possibly gain enough flexion in the lines to reduce parts cost but remember putting something in a state of stress already will greatly increase the possibility for future failure in the area again. Below is a picture of what I think you will find aand how I the repair will look.
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The statement is extremely vague. Is it a travel trailer or a motor coach? Motor coach could be dripping condensation from ac while in use. Is it fresh water and only leaks when connected to a hydrant? Does it only leak when sewage is dumped into the black water holding tank? In short, you must determine under what condition the unit is leaking. Then narrow down where it is leaking from and then identify the failed part. RV manufacturers do not publish plumbing diagrams so it is all visual in the diagnostic process.
If it is older than 15 - 20 years and leaking on the floor under the tank, purchase and install a new appliance, If the T&P valve is leaking, change the valve. If it still leaks, replace the expansion tank which should on the supply water line. Try not to install an expansion tank "on its side". BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, make certain your incoming water pressure does not exceed 65 -70 psi. This could be the real problem. If so, install a new water pressure regulator. It is usually located inside the basement wall. In a Garden Home, it may be outside at the curb in the ground by the water meter. It may be in the ground buried near the entry through the foundation. It may be near the water heater.
plastic line and fitting are a snap in item
push the line in and at the same time press in the ring at the end of the fitting
that releases the clamping action of the line
make sure that the water is turned off and the pressure in the line is released
I had the same problem with my bissell proheat carpet cleaner. My cleaner would leak water out the back when i turned it on. I opened up the cleaner and found there was a broken tee connector. The tee connector was a small black plastic three way connector shaped like a letter "T" with three plastic hoses plugged in to each end. One hose had broken off from the tee, the tee connector itself had snapped. Bissell has a couple hoses that run up through the upright porsion of the cleaner, i believe if that hose gets pulled too hard by over extending the cleaner upright portion it can snap the tee connector.
I purchased a vacuum line tee connector at the local auto parts store for a buck and replaced it. The vacuum line connectors are for rubber lines on a vehicle related to the engine, but they work fine for the Bissell. The size i purchased was 3/16"x3/16"x3/16". The cleaner works great now!!!
Here is how i took it apart:
I removed the water reservour, the soap dispenser, and the cap for the air flow indicator (red spinny thingy).
I removed the two screws in the very back, the two in the middle on each side of the water resevour and the two in the front. I carefully lifted the top of the cleaner off.
Inside you have to watch for a black plunger piece that might fall out, it belongs to your (heavy traffic/light traffic/water only) turn knob. If the plunger falls out reinsert it back into the underside of the cleaner lid right next to the knob, you will see how it fits in there...hopefully. Inside the bottom portion of the cleaner you will see a few hoses. Check them all and make sure none of them are disconnected or broken off from the tee connector. I would almost bet that this is what your problem is if the machine is leaking. replace the valve, reconnect hoses and carefully reassemble the cleaner.
Hope this helps...
There's a fuel block under the tank that splits the single output from the petcock to four lines to the carburetors; a cracked or broken line or a damaged block could be the source of the leak. There's also a fuel level sensor on the underside of the tank that can leak and cause the same problem. A cheap diagnostic tool might show you the source of the leak: mix powdered clothes detergent with water until it's a thin paste, add red (or any other bright color) food coloring to the paste, paint paste all over areas that may cause the leak (in this case, you'd paint all the fuel lines to the carburetors, and the entire underside of the tank). Drive until leaking gas is noted, check for missing colored paste.
That's leaking from the hoses coming out from the boiler,if the machine is new it should be still under warranty, may have to take it back to the service center.When making coffee the lines are under pressure and the water never have a chance to pass through the ground coffee.
Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.
this sounds like a joint is leaking just but not enough for the water to surface try digging the main line from the meter to the house be careful not to damage any lines under the ground and mind any gas and electric lines. once you find the water line out of the meter trace it to the house as soon as you start digging into mud your gitting close to the leak. once found remove dirt so that repairs can be made
The water line is broken somewhere from the water dispencer all the way down to the water valve. I usually find that it is broken next to the water valve. Hint: Water valve is blue and located behind the fridge in the compressor department. Water line is 1/4inch clear tube that is probaly now a "yellowish" color. Easy to spot, easy to fix, especially if located next to water valve...