Can I wrap excess pump power cable around by discharge pipe
Can I wrap the power cable around my discharge pipe without damaging of over heating th cable or discharge pipe. I have 20 foot cable and the receptacle is only ten feet away. I am concerned that the excess cable could be a safety issue but I am also concerned with the SJTW cable rating and heat dissapation
Re: Can I wrap excess pump power cable around by...
What motor's amp draw? What is the pipe material? If you can loop the wire back and forth and tie it to the discharge pipe with a wire tie you would be better off. I have seen a 110 volt electric smoker melt the power cord in a retractable shop light. A coil of romex without metal at the center will do the same thing.
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sounds like you still might have a leak. but in the short term bleed off 5 pounds of air from your bladder tank and the pump will turn off quicker. Your pressure switch my has a weaken a bit from age which would effect it turning on and off
If you are trying to draw water from a lower place, you may have lost prime. It is also possible there is a reason for this loss of prime, maybe a leak on the suction piping. Remove some fitting on or near the discharge of the pump, fill the body completely with water. If it goes in, fill the entire suction piping with water, too. Open a faucet nearby, turn on the pump and wait up to 5 minutes. It should spit and sputter, sound will change, some water will discharge, but eventually, you should get steady flow.
If you lose prime again, look for leaks in the suction piping from the inlet of the pump to where the piping goes into the ground.
Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.
The orientation for a sump pump/check valve are the pump is in the bottom of the pit, the discharge pipe leads up into a check valve, usually very close to if not threaded into the pump discharge, and then the pipe continues up and out to wherever your water discharges to. The weep hole needs to be below the check valve. The hole is there to prevent an air lock in the pump which would prevent it from moving water. If the water trapped in the vertical run of the discharge pipe is returning to the pit once the pump shuts off the problem is the check valve is not holding or the hole is on the wrong side of the flapper assembly. Did the check valve come with the unit? If not, you will need to fix it if you can or replace it.
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It sounds to me like there is a hole rusted through the discharge pipe of the pump. If you are able to look into the cistern with a flash light while the pump is running. You might see water swirling around the pump. This means the pump is good, but the pipe is bad.
Most areas it is not up to code to discharge stormwater into a public sewer. In other areas it is not permitted to discharge into street. This can errode the streeet and causing freezing. There is a pop up device to allow you to discharge into your yard. It will pop up when pressure lifts it allowing the water to discharge in your yard. Be sure that the water doesn't flow into a neighbor's yard. You will have to make provisions for the outlet to drain in the winter. I would keep the pipe below frost line. Where pipe turns up I would drill small weep hole and back fill area with sand or gravel to allow the pipe to drain when pump turns off.
You may have an air lock. Disconnect the discharge pipe from the check valve and lift the pump out. Be sure you disconnect the 'bottom' or the check valve so it will still hold any water above it in the pipe. Lift the pump up out of the water and then settle it back into place and reconnect.
You may have damaged the unit by running it dry and lifting it out wont help there. You can try a repair shop but it is usually recommended you replace the whole pump.
Well, you can dismantle the pump head and check if the impeller is damage. If damage, replace the impeller. Then reassemble the pump and reinstall to its position. Set the discharge gate valve at full close position. Then, fill the priming pipe full with water. Then, switch the power on, and slowly open the discharge gate valve to the desired pressure. Send in your e-mail for further assistance.
Open the priming port at the discharge pipe. Close the discharge valve and fill the priming port with water until it is full. Power up and switch on the pump. While running, slowly open the discharge valve until the water pressure gage at the pump is 20 psi. That will be the running pressure of the pump, and the maximum opening of the discharge valve.
With a 1-1/2 inch suction and a 2 inch discharge, you have no backpressure, and it's actually beneficial to have a working head. Try pinching the discharge valve to maintain a steady discharge pressure of at least 20-30 psig on the pump case. Tinker with the discharge pressure as required to balance the pump. As a general rule, the suction line is never smaller than the discharge line to prevent cavitation of the pump. A temporary move of pinching the discharge will compensate some, but it is better to increase the size of the suction line, if the pump will handle it. If the rated pump volume is low, you may also be trying to exceed it's capacity, and heat wil result in the motor.
If at all possible, convert the voltage to 220v as this will also make you more effecient and pull half the amps. Most pumps can be wired either way, and usually the diagram for swapping is included or inside the motor housing. Converting is easy.
Best regards, --W/D--
We begin at the suction line. I'll assume that you will be using this as a pool pump since you have a filter. At the suction line, install a horizontal or a vertical check valve along the suction pipe. Then the suction pipe is connected to the bottom pipe adapter of the filter. The top pipe adapter of the filter shall be connected to the pump suction adapter. At the pump discharge adapter, install a GI Pipe Tee. At the bottom of the GI pipe tee, put a GI nipple going to the pump discharge adapter. Opposite it shall be the pipe plug to serve as the priming port. At the GI pipe cross, install a GI nipple about 6-inch long with a service **** to balance water flow. At the end of the service **** install another 6-inch GI nipple to attach a gate valve to control water flow. After the gate valve is the discharge pipelines going back to the pool.
Note: Pump must be installed within 3 to 5 meters near the water source. You may install more than 5 meters but suction could be difficult for the pump.
Priming the pump:
Open the plug at the tee that serves as the priming port, Fill this up with water to full level with the service **** at full close position. Once filled up, replace and close the priming port. Put the power on, and start the pump running, then slowly open the service **** or flow control valve to appropriate level.
Just send your e-mail for further assistance. Thanks.