I read some of your posts and determined that my lid switch is bad. my question is how do i replace it as the wires seem to be sodered in to the original swicth. where do i purchase a new switch? any help would be greatly appreaciated as we just replaced our fridge and dont need the added expense of a new washer. firstname.lastname@example.org.
Now, unless someone has modified the original lid switch, there is NO soldering required. The defective switch just has a couple of mounting screws holding it in place, along with a ground wire attached to the casing. The entire assembly unplugs from the timer and comes out.
As far as a replacement is concerned, you can order them on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your complete model number (located around the wash tub opening) and the lid switch is usually listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. If your lid switch is activated by a lid strike, which is mounted on the washer lid, make sure it is also intact and not broken. The strike is also listed under the same heading. If you do not wish to wait on shipment, take the part numbers listed on the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are standard parts that can commonly be found there.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if it agitates correctly,then its likely your lid safety switch, agitate and spin cycles are reversed by the motor during the cycles of agitate and spin,some units are wired to not operate on either agitate or spin,but some will operate on agitate with the lid open,but not on spin,open control panel and bypass the lid switch and this will tell you before you tear out the direct drive pump,motor and get to the d.d. coupler at the transmission
not that i know of,most of the time it's not the machines fault for the switch to break,it's from somebody slaming the lid down or putting heavy things like a laundry basket filled with clothes on top of the lid that causes the switch to break
No agitation or spin is commonly caused by either a lid switch malfunction or a broken motor coupling. The symptoms are slightly different, however. The following link explains how to diagnose your problem:
Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions. Please post back with your MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) so that I may be able to determine how your washer is configured.
The part number for the motor coupling is included in the link I provided. The lid switch part number can be searched at the websites I provided by using your model number. Both parts COMBINED are $50 or less if you repair this yourself. I've included follow-on links that explain step-by-step how to replace each one.
Read though the information I provided and take note of your symptoms. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Test the Lid switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.
Check the lid switch for continuity.
Open the control panel, disconnect the lid switch from the top of the cabinet.
Use a volt/ohm meter set for continuity. Insert the probes into the connector attached to the cabinet. With the lid closed it should get a reading. If no reading replace the switch.
While it is open you can make a jumper wire and jump out the lid switch wire going to the timer. Then turn the dial to spin and turn it on. If it spins it verifies a bad lid switch. If not, you have a bad timer.
This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.
You probably have a defective lid switch. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. If you need assistance in determining a part number, please post back with your model number. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:
Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.
Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.
If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).
If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.
If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.
PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.