After rebuilding my A200 mixer, I found that it is having a difficult time trying to start. If I flip the toggle switch on, it just sits there humming loudly, but not rotating. I took the top cover off and I watched the rotor vibrate while trying to spin and hum loudly. The only way I could get it to start running was to power it off, shift it into second speed, then grab the agitator shaft and move it around until I can then see the rotor spinning freely and rapidly. Then while it is still spinning, I flip the switch and it takes off running. Then I can power it off quickly; shift it to low speed and quickly power it back on. It will then continue to run all day, if I want it to. As long as the rotor is spinning above a certain rpm, I can shift it into any gear. All of the gears work under a load and shift properly, with no slippage that I can see or hear. What I need to know is if the capacitor is faulty or if the rotor or the stator is the problem.
Here is what I finally did to fix the problem. The "sleeve" that makes contact with the switch was being locked away from the contact due to two slots in it. I ended up filling the slots with epoxy so that it is smooth. This allows the sleeve to push towards the contact when at rest. Hopefully it will last a long time. If not, then...Here is what I finally did to fix the problem. The "sleeve" that makes contact with the switch was being locked away from the contact due to two slots in it. I ended up filling the slots with epoxy so that it is smooth. This allows the sleeve to push towards the contact when at rest. Hopefully it will last a long time. If not, then...
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My fantastic guy just rebuilt my A200. He says it's likely that your back plate is slightly off center so that the center arbor is touching the windings-- any contact and the machine won't run. The tolerances are thousandths of an inch in there.
I don't want to sound ignorant, but what back plate are you talking about? Do you mean the switch plate that contains the capacitor contacts? If so, I don't think it is touching the windings. I really think that it is the clutch disk that is supposed to engage the capacitor contact. The disk has two slots in it which are being locked in the disengaged position by the spring tensioned clutch once the rotor stops. I am seriously looking at replacing this mechanical switching assembly with a "potential" relay. I do appreciate the solution suggestion, though.I don't want to sound ignorant, but what back plate are you talking about? Do you mean the switch plate that contains the capacitor contacts? If so, I don't think it is touching the windings. I really think that it is the clutch disk that is supposed to engage the capacitor contact. The disk has two slots in it which are being locked in the disengaged position by the spring tensioned clutch once the rotor stops. I am seriously looking at replacing this mechanical switching assembly with a "potential" relay. I do appreciate the solution suggestion, though.
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There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
Go to your local Motor repair shop. They usually have used ones laying around or can sell you a new one.They wont try to sell you the new improved solid state controlled version!
Hi Don. If your mixer is hurling honey, you must be very popular in the ant world...Sorry!
The Hobart electric motor on your mixer was designed and engineered to operate on 115-120 volt current and is the most dependable, and capable commercial mixer out there Is it possible for you to use a commercial Imerssion Blender for the first part of your mixing operation. Once your honey thickens a bit perhaps the a200 wouldn't hurl honey. Another consideration would be to either try a different beater or modify the one you have by removing surface area from the beater. If you remove metal, be sure to do it in a balanced fashion to avoid unwanted vibration in the beater. If you're not up to removing metal, take it to a machine shop and they'll do it for you. It probably won't take long, or cost much, and they have the expertise and the equipment to do it properly. If you found this solution helpful, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45.
Here is what I finally did to fix the problem. The "sleeve" that makes contact with the switch was being locked away from the contact due to two slots in it. I ended up filling the slots with epoxy so that it is smooth. This allows the sleeve to push towards the contact when at rest. Hopefully it will last a long time. If not, then...
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