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Re: sears 10 hp b/s rididng mower
On most riding mowers there are several switches that must be actuated before it will start. First, make sure that blades are disengaged. If there is a handle that engages and disengages them, you might try holding it in the dis-engage position in case the switch is out of adjustment. There is probably one under the seat also. This switch kills everything if you are not sitting in the seat for safety reasons. Also, make sure the parking brake is set, and the gear is in neutral, and not forward or reverse. Hope some of this helps. C
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Yes you could have an ECU problem but there are a number of tests that need to be done. I have found in a couple of the accords to be an open wire. Below is a picture of the connector at the alternator. Unplug it and turn the key to the on position (make sure your battery is fully charged) check the number 1 position of the plug. There should be battery voltage there. If there isn't you need to locate the open black & yellow wire. That wire should go directly to the fuse box inside the vehicle. This has happened a couple of times in my shop. You could have other problems but would try this first. If all is well with this tests feel free to email me at email@example.com with all your information and I will be happy to give you some other tests to perform in order to narrow down the problem. No there wouldn't be a charge for my help, don't mind helping when I can. As long as you can kinda follow and locate wires/connectors and have a digital volt/ohm meter (and know how to use it) I think narrowing down the problem will be fairly easy. On this picture I am going by that you have the most common engine (4 cylinder 2.3) If you have the DV or LX model with the V6 3.0 liter engine there may be a difference so this test might not be correct. Was just going with the common engine. Hope this helps......
If it has a Briggs and Stratton motor open the hood and look all along the wire harnesses. There might be an automotive type plug in 20 amp fuse that has blown. If it did blow there is a reason. First look for a dead short somewhere. Mine was a loose wiring terminal at the headlight. Replace fuse and try to start.
try disconecting the positive terminal of the batery for sevral minets (5-10) this will reset the brain box memory for the stero aswell as for the car it self.
what caused the batery to go dead in the first place?
things that i can think of :
1) left headlights on over night
2) bad altenator not charging batery
3) battery is old and not taking a charge anymore
4) new stero installed incorectly and drainging the batery
have you resently installed a new stero or amplifyer?
is the turn key igntion system hooked into the amp/stero antena lead so that thy are shut of when the ignition is?
of note: new streo >theres a blue wire marked ant that goes to the amplifyer if not there you need to find the orange accsesory wire coming from the turn key igntion>check for power when ignition is in the on & off states could be yellow in some cars but is usaly orange if this wire has on and of state controled by the turn key igntion this would be the wire to tap into for the amplyfire and the radio main power
check your radio's instaltion guide for code errors
its posible that when hooking up the jump it was done incorectly and blew up the radio
ie postive and negative where fliped
hope this helped :)
Some cig lighter plugins are wired directly to battery, others are connected to ignition. You can always re-wire it straight to fuse or radio memory wire (Yellow) on cd deck or (Green/Black) from car wiring
Does your tractor have electric clutch ? With the switch turned off try removing positive battery cable you then try touching cable to post if you get a spark you have a short in system you could also charge battery and remove positive cable from battery over night to see if battery stays up to check battery,you also have a alternater under flywheel to charge battery you should be getting an output of about 14 volts most likely not the problem