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Re: sears 10 hp b/s rididng mower
On most riding mowers there are several switches that must be actuated before it will start. First, make sure that blades are disengaged. If there is a handle that engages and disengages them, you might try holding it in the dis-engage position in case the switch is out of adjustment. There is probably one under the seat also. This switch kills everything if you are not sitting in the seat for safety reasons. Also, make sure the parking brake is set, and the gear is in neutral, and not forward or reverse. Hope some of this helps. C
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I had the same problem. I replaced the wiring harness for a short fix, corrosion in the terminals that connect to ignition switch. This worked for a while. Then replaced ignition switch this also worked for short time. Now I just open the hood to reach behind the ignition switch and wiggle wires while turning key to start until it starts keep wiggling to get good contact. If it won't stop after it starts, wiggle wires after you turn the key to off. It will stop.
With out more information it sounds like one of the safety switches is faulty -most likley the one under the clutch pedal .To test this locate and unplug the ignition wire coming from the engine to the wiring harness the engine should keep going -- you will need to plug it back in to stop the engine.If this works then repair or replace the faulty switch.
Even new batteries can be bad. All it take is one dead cell in it and it won't be enough to start the mower. The other thing to look at is the cranking amps of the battery. The cheapest wally world battery won't cut it for the larger motors. www.nnyparts.com
These ride-ons have a cut out solinoid under the carby that when there is no power or the ign is cut it will drive a little pin into the main jet to prevent flooding, id say this is why your mower runs for 20 and stops...
There is a few reasons this could be occuring:
#1First I would be checking the battery see if its dropped a cell or has a dead cell, you can do this by load testing it with a load tester or removing it and taking it into a battery specialist. if this is the case the battery will not accept a charge from the charging circuit...
#2 Check your wiring with a multimeter from the armature under the flywheel all the way back to your battery (also these models may have a regulator/rectifier that can be tested they have test values and can be checked by your local small engine repaier)
#3 If all your wiring is ok then you will have a problem with your armature this is located under the flywheel on your engine it has two seperate windings one for the charging of your battery and the other powers your headlights / elec magnetic clutch, the one for the charging will be unservicable these can be diffucult to access and test and is probably best done at your local small engine repair shop...
IF THE ENGINE WILL TURN OVER WITH THE KEY YOUR PROBLEM LIES WITHIN THE ENGINE ITSELF PULL THE SPARK PLUG AND LIE IN ON A GROUNDED SURFACE WITH WIRE ATTACHED TURN ENGINE OVER AND VISUALY CHECK FOR SPARK IF STILL NO SPARK YOU WILL NEED TO PULL FLYHEEL TO CHECK POINTS AND COIL IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE IN THESE PROCEDURES LET ME KNOW
When you are jumping it off from the solenoid, there is no power going to the fuel shutoff solenoid under the carb if your battery is dead. If you can't hear the click from the fuel solenoid when you very first turn the key to on, it's not giong to start by jumping other than through the battery.
Does your tractor have electric clutch ? With the switch turned off try removing positive battery cable you then try touching cable to post if you get a spark you have a short in system you could also charge battery and remove positive cable from battery over night to see if battery stays up to check battery,you also have a alternater under flywheel to charge battery you should be getting an output of about 14 volts most likely not the problem