Question about Phil & Teds E3 Jogger

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Charcoal phil and ted E3

One of the rear wheels has a loose/broken bearing and is loose and rubs

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Contact the manufacturer immediately. www.regallager.com 800-593-5522
If your stroller is under warranty, they will take care of the problem at no charge. If it is out of warranty, they can send you the replacement part, but may charge a small fee.

Posted on Oct 24, 2008

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1 Answer

Weird vibration, unable to figure out


I would have the front wheel bearing adjustment checked first as if they are loose the rotor will be rubbing on the pads and the vibration will be wheel wobbling on the loose bearings Unless you replaced the bearings with new ones then they will fail especially if the adjustment was too tight and too much grease was used.

Jul 15, 2013 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

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2005 Ford Explorer is making a grinding noise


I had some issues with my 2005 explorer left rear. It was making a creepy old door sound at low speeds and then a high pitched whisel at high speeds. That turned out to be a broken wheel bearing and had it replaced. Note each wheel has two wheel bearings. After that a new noise developed that sounded like metal scraping/ grinding metal. It end up being the brake dust cover got bent when they replaced the bearing and it was rubbing something, the fix for that was bending it so it didn't rub. I hope this helps.

Sep 03, 2012 | 2005 Ford Explorer

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Knocking noise coming from back tyre


could be a broken belt on the tire could be a wheel bearing possibly a brake caliper hanging up or just something came loose and is rubbing on your tire needs to be lifted up and inspected it may mean removing the rt rear tire for a closer inspection is the car stopping ok if not don't play with your brakes

Jun 28, 2012 | 2001 Fiat Punto

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When sitting at a red light my Mazda 3 idles real funny...vibrating almost sounding like a cats purr?


2006 Mazda 3


Applies to 2006 Mazda Mazda3:
Available engines
4 Cylinders 2.0L MFI DOHC
4 Cylinders 2.3L MFI DOHC


Could be a number of things - you're going to end up checking the entire car.

Off the top of my head:
a) exhaust component has rusted loose (usually catalytic converter heat shield). Any loose exhaust component (hanger/muffler, etc.) will vibrate at idle.
b) glove compartment door - loose hinge
c) motor mount - rubber part of metal/rubber mount vibrates loose & falls out.
d) transmission mount - ditto.

The Maintenance manual for your car says:

Clicking noise at idle or driving
--------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Main (Crankshaft) Bearing - Excessive Bearing Clearance.
1 Inspect Rod Bearing - Incorrect Rod or Main Bearing Clearances.
2 Inspect Rocker Arm - Worn or Incorrectly Adjusted Rocker Arm(s).
3 Inspect Piston Ring Set - Worn or Broken Piston Rings.
4 Inspect Piston - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Piston.
5 Inspect Fuel Line Assembly - Fuel Line Leaking.
6 Inspect Hose Clamp - Loose or Missing Fuel Line Clamps.

Tapping noise at idle
------------------------------
1 Inspect Valve Lifter - Insufficient Oil Supply.
2 Inspect Fan Blade - Broken, Missing, or Faulty Fan Blade(s).
3 Inspect Oil Pump Screen - Clogged Oil Pump Screen.
4 Inspect Oil Pump Drive Gear - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump Drive Gear.
5 Inspect Exhaust Valve(s) - Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves.
6 Inspect Oil(Crankcase)Capacity - Lifters Need Additional Lubrication.
7 Inspect Oil Filler Cap - Oil Filler Cap Damaged or Missing.
8 Inspect Oil Pump - Damaged or Faulty Oil Pump.
9 Inspect Oil Filter - Old or Clogged Oil Filter.
10 Inspect Oil FLow Check Valve - Damaged or Faulty Oil FLow Check Valve Caused Loss of Oil Pressure.

Vibration while Accelerating
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect CV Half-Shaft (Remanufactured) CCT - Worn or Damaged CV Half-Shaft.

vibration while braking
--------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.

Vibration while driving - entire vehicle
-----------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Brake Rotor Specs - Warped or Uneven Brake Rotor Surface.
2 Inspect Ball Joint-Lower - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Ball Joint-UPPER - Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Ball Joint.
3 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Tie Rod End - Worn or Damaged Tie Rod Ends.
6 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
7 Inspect Wheel Hub Bearing - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Hub Bearing.

Vibration in rear axle area while driving
-----------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Driveshaft - Bent, Loose or Unbalanced Driveshaft.
4 Inspect Differential Drive Pinion - Worn, Damaged or Broken Pinion Teeth.
4 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.
5 Inspect Pinion Bearing - Worn or Damaged Pinion Bearings or Yolk Shaft.


Vibration in steering wheel while driving
---------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Vibration in tire/wheel area while driving
------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Front - Incorrectly Tightened or Installed Wheel Bearing.

Vibration under vehicle while driving
---------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect U-Joint - Loose, Worn, or Damaged U-Joint.
2 Inspect Muffler - Damaged or Burned Out Muffler.

Vibration in rear wheeel area while driving
------------------------------------------------------------
1 Inspect Wheel Bearing-Rear - Worn, Dry or Damaged Wheel Bearing.

Dec 01, 2011 | 2006 Mazda 3

1 Answer

Can hear grinding noise from front and rear brakes. very loud noise when back up from rear brake.


it could be a knackered wheel bearing, or the pads are worn, or theyre rubbing, check all pins/clips and bolts are on correctly nothings too loose or tight (depending on what it is)

Jul 19, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki GZ 250 Marauder

1 Answer

I have a 2004 1100 classic when coasting or decelerating there is a noise like something rubbing coming from rear wheel that goes away as you accelerate


It sounds like the rear wheel is out of alignment, or loose. Could be a worn bearing. Torque is applied to the rear wheel as you accelerate, and lost when left off. If I am not mistaken, the rearend is set with a dyno machine at the dealer. Try putting the bike on a lift to get the rear wheel off the ground. Grip the rear wheel on opposite sides with both hands and lightly alternate pull right and left, and top and bottom. If you get any movement from the wheel, it is time for service as this is an indication of the bearings wearing out. If you recently had the rear end serviced, they may not have gotten everything tightened properly, or misaligned the rear wheel.

Jul 24, 2010 | 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

2 Answers

Sounds like there is a grinding noise also the right rear wheel sounded like a rock was caught in the hub cap except there is no hub cap


Sounds like a wheel bearing. Jack it up and spin the wheel with your hand you will find the wheel turning rough and loose the stonelike rattle probably the brake disc rubbing against the pads. Just check when turning the wheel the noise is'nt comming from between the duet cover and the disc may be as simple as somthing like a small stone caught between the dust plate and the brake disc. Hope this help's Cheers

Aug 14, 2009 | 2002 Audi A6

2 Answers

1984 lincoln town car has noise and vibration only when turning coming frm the back of the car.


Lots of things to check. Rear wheels, lug nuts, loose suspension piece, rear wheel bearing, since this is a rear wheel drive car i would also check the u-joints. From your description, it sounds either like a loose wheel or a wheel bearing, since the noise and vibration only occurs when you are turning. Hope this helps you, Rick

Apr 18, 2009 | 1984 Lincoln Town Car

2 Answers

Rubbing or grinding noise coming from Driver side rear tire/wheel


I had the same problem that based on interner research is common for Fords trcuks/suvs. The common problem fro rear humming "rubbing"sound might be the rear wheel bearings/seal. These will need to be replaced as it will progressivly get worse and the noise louder and eventually the bearings can sieze. I would hesitate to take to a ford dealer if I were you as it can run $500-900. Take to mechanic that knows how to replace wheel bearings and seals. My mechanic replaced them for about $150. and the bearing and seals are around $40. A good way to test this is to raise the wheel were you can freely spin by hand...if does not spin or there is a lot of friction then it might be the wheel bearings.
Good Luck

Apr 08, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

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