I have this ace digital heat gun that's i've been using for 2 years,
mostly to dry the paint.I use it for somthing like 4 times a year. A
few days ago I used the gun and it took twice the time to dry the paint
(it's the same paint and I guess the same amount).
I think that the gun isn't hot enough, what can I do in order to get it
back to normal? or perheps you have another idea to what the problem is
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Re: Not hot enough
Being a digital heat gun i would say that the onboard circuitry is only allowing it to heat up to a lower temperature , for what it would cost to fix its probably cheaper to buy another one but i would stay away from anything digital and try and buy a wagner or bosche if you can but non digital
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The gun is dirty regaurdless of its an airless or conventional
Airless is pressurized paint driven through the mechine by the pump its hydrolic. The reasons that could be leaking are tip isn't tight enough a bad or dryed paint on the gasket seal to the tip houseing or dryed paint on the neddle valve that seals the gun before the tip or dryed paint in the rear slides for the neddle .
Conventional gun would be almost the same problems execpt the tip doen't need a tip seal ..
My advice is to take the tip off .Take the nut under it off and take the neddle valve out through the back of the gun . Clean and lub it all .
Modern auto paints such as urethanes, acrylic enamels and others need catalysts or hardeners added, usually 1/2 to 1 pint per gallon. Call your local auto paint supplier and tell them what brand you used. Heat always helps drying time speed up. Retarders can be used as well as fast dry thinners depending on your local conditions. Vintage alkyd enamels needed heat or a full hot day to dry and stayed sensitive for weeks.
Well, could be. You did not specify what type of paint you are spraying onto what type of material....
Are you filtering your paint? do you have an air line evaporator? The secret to drying compressed air is to COOL it first, often with long air lines (or refrigeration unit), then the vapor separator. If the air is still hot, vapor will not be separated.
and by textured, do you mean raised bumps or valleys?
Yes, yo can repair it. there is compound problem with the unit. Please use this advice for future to save yourself time and money.
Before you store any painting equipment for longer than few days:
1. Strip equipment to base pieces, 2. Clean them with paint stripper 3. Wash them in water and then dry them through 4. Wash them in solvent, dry them, put vaseline on rubbing parts 5. Store in dust protecting rags or bags
You just used your gun without cleaning it, that was part of the problem, gqasket on the bottom of the piston was weakened by paint and two years of storage, you did not strain paint, you just used it directly from the can. chunky bit from the can (there are always bits forming around the toip and sides of the can) clogged piston, giving impression that there is no paint, you incresed the pressure and gasket give up on you...
Just follow advice, clean the gun, put it to pieces, find which gasket (I suspected that this one will be from the bottom of the piston), most of hardware stores have spares for these guns, buy exactly same dimension, put gun back together and this should solve your problem.
I do that sort of the "surgery" on the tble with several layers of old newspapers under and last laer butchers paper, I put my pieces in order in which i removed them so I can easy put them back together. Always strain paint, always clean gun...
Maybe its only the thermal overload switch , probably faulty and giving a false reading , they are designed to protect the motor from overheating , not really sure if you can fix it yourself though you might have to get it replaced if under warranty or repaired if not too expensive
Although safer than using a naked-flame blowlamp, care is still required when using a heat gun. Specific point are:
* Because of the power of these tools (up to 2000W), when an extension lead is necessary, only use a lead rated at 10 amp or greater and always completely unwind the lead.
* Never obstruct or cover the air inlet grills. If the air flow is reduced the heat gun will overheat and possible catch fire.
* Never operate the heat gun with the outlet nozzle hard up against a surface, this will reduce the air and can have the same effect as obstructing the air inlet grills,
* Do not use a heat gun near inflammable materials.
* Always switch the tool off before putting it down on any surface.
* Allow the tool to cool before storing it.
* Do not place the nozzle next to anything whilst it is hot.
* Never touch the hot metal nozzle with clothing or skin.
* Do not use for stripping lead-based paints.
* Do not allow any paint to stick to the nozzle - and if some paint does stick, allow the gun to cool down and remove the paint.
* Do not look down the nozzle while the gun is turned on.
* Do not insert anything down the nozzle with the gun.
Uses for the heat gun include:
* drying paint or varnish - 30 to 130 °C - care has to be taken as dust particles may be blown onto the paint/varnish.
* drying out damp wood (before filling or painting) - around 100 to 200°C.
* softening adhesive (such as when applying worktop edge trim or lifting floor tiles) - 300 to 400°C.
* bending plastic pipes - 200 to 300°C.
* heat-shrinking plastic film - 200 to 300°C.
* welding some plastics - 330 to 400°C.
Heat guns look a lot like hair dryers - but, as many instructions thoughtfully point out, should never be used for drying hair! The method of operation of a hot air gun is similar to a hair dryer: a fan pulls air into the body of the tool and drives it across an electric heating element and out through a nozzle.
For stripping paint, the heated air is directed onto the painted surface, causing it to soften so that it can be easily stripped off - either by using a stripping knife or hook. For best results it is best to work up the surface with the heat gun above the stripping tool, softening the paint just before the stripping tool reaches it. The tool is used one-handed, with the other hand to hold the stripping tool.
Some heat guns can be used sitting on a bench so that two hands are free to use the hot air for other applications.
This fault is not something you can repair your self.
It is a problem with the DFS module normally dry joints but it is near imposible to do without specialist equipment.
So definately take to repair shop.
Do not attempt this repair.
Sorry for being bearer of bad news.