I have this ace digital heat gun that's i've been using for 2 years,
mostly to dry the paint.I use it for somthing like 4 times a year. A
few days ago I used the gun and it took twice the time to dry the paint
(it's the same paint and I guess the same amount).
I think that the gun isn't hot enough, what can I do in order to get it
back to normal? or perheps you have another idea to what the problem is
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Re: Not hot enough
Being a digital heat gun i would say that the onboard circuitry is only allowing it to heat up to a lower temperature , for what it would cost to fix its probably cheaper to buy another one but i would stay away from anything digital and try and buy a wagner or bosche if you can but non digital
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No, no seal. The heating element is just a heated tube with the nozzle simply threaded into its end. The heating element in your glue gun may be cracked. Or... possibly... you (or someone in your household) got it hot and laid it down and left it that way for a LONG time, and the melted glue backed up inside the heating element. A glue gun should never be laid on its side while hot but idle, especially for long periods of time.
These are probably intended to be used a maximum of 2 hours a day. What are you using them for? If you are using for paint stripping for 4 hours a day they will probably only last a couple months. The more expensive Master ones will last longer but cost a lot more. Harbor Freight tool has these at about $8 and those may last as long as the ones you are using. The motor brushes probably are the failing point. There are a couple brands that use induction motors that don't have brushes but they are less portable.
Turbine powered hvlp systems are not the ideal system for spraying latex paint. If you plan to do lots of latex spraying an airless system is recommended.
You should be using a 2.00mm or 2.5mm tip. More thinning than recommended may be necessary to get a good spray. The addition of floetrol or similar latex retarder is a good idea. A retarder will slow the drying and allow more time for the paint to level and result in less orange peel finishes
With out the thing plugged in with an OHM meter the heting element can be checked with the nose removed. Most of the time once the nose is removed the problem is easy to see the end is burnt off the element connection. Remake the connection reinstall the nose and test. The heating element runns right off the switch and the connection there is easy to see with the handle opened. This is simple unit and wires burnt off from being too hot is almost always the problem. look it over carfully and the problem will be seen.
do you make sure to cool it down after use before switching off.
if switched off imediately after using on hot, the heat from the elements will keep increasing , causing short life of heating element and maybe the gun has a thermal trip that needs to cool down before it will switch back on. This sounds like what is happening with your machine.
Maybe its only the thermal overload switch , probably faulty and giving a false reading , they are designed to protect the motor from overheating , not really sure if you can fix it yourself though you might have to get it replaced if under warranty or repaired if not too expensive
Although safer than using a naked-flame blowlamp, care is still required when using a heat gun. Specific point are:
* Because of the power of these tools (up to 2000W), when an extension lead is necessary, only use a lead rated at 10 amp or greater and always completely unwind the lead.
* Never obstruct or cover the air inlet grills. If the air flow is reduced the heat gun will overheat and possible catch fire.
* Never operate the heat gun with the outlet nozzle hard up against a surface, this will reduce the air and can have the same effect as obstructing the air inlet grills,
* Do not use a heat gun near inflammable materials.
* Always switch the tool off before putting it down on any surface.
* Allow the tool to cool before storing it.
* Do not place the nozzle next to anything whilst it is hot.
* Never touch the hot metal nozzle with clothing or skin.
* Do not use for stripping lead-based paints.
* Do not allow any paint to stick to the nozzle - and if some paint does stick, allow the gun to cool down and remove the paint.
* Do not look down the nozzle while the gun is turned on.
* Do not insert anything down the nozzle with the gun.
As such a simple tool, there are not many differences between one model of heat gun and another - but there are some features which are important.
* Wattage - commonly from 1000W to 2000W (a measure of the power of the gun). Providing that there are heat and/or airflow controls, the higher the wattage, the better.
* Main control switch - usually mounted on the front of the pistol grip, and normally a 'dead man' switch so that power is switched off when the finger pressure is removed - an ideal safety feature as the heat gun stops if it is accidentally dropped.
* Temperature setting - at least 500°C is needed for stripping paint - the lower the bottom end of the range the more useful. A choice of controls make the tool more useful.
* Airflow setting - having variable or more than one speed makes the tool more versatile.
* Thermal cut out - this will switch off the tool if it becomes overheated. If this occurs, it indicates a fault in the tool or method of use - for safety, the fault must be identified and corrected before the heat gun is again used.
* Flex length - lengths of 2.5 to 3 m are normally fitted, this means that when using an extension lead, the tool can be used at the full reach without having the socket hanging in mid air.
* Hanging hook - useful for storing the tool.
* Surface stand - this enables the heat gun to be safety 'rested' during pauses in the work and after uses. It also allows the gun to be used 'hands-free' when two hands are required on the work piece (such as when bending a plastic pipe).
* Nozzles - most heat guns have a range of nozzles that can be fitted for specific uses, generally these need to be purchased separately. The main types of nozzles are: 1. Reducer nozzle - when you want to concentrate the heat onto a specific area.
2. Reflector nozzle - wraps round a plastic or copper pipe to spread the heat around the pipe surface.
3. Flat nozzle - for spreading the hot air over a wider narrower area.
4. Glass protector nozzle - for use when stripping paint on a window to keep the direct heat off the glass.
Uses for the heat gun include:
* drying paint or varnish - 30 to 130 °C - care has to be taken as dust particles may be blown onto the paint/varnish.
* drying out damp wood (before filling or painting) - around 100 to 200°C.
* softening adhesive (such as when applying worktop edge trim or lifting floor tiles) - 300 to 400°C.
* bending plastic pipes - 200 to 300°C.
* heat-shrinking plastic film - 200 to 300°C.
* welding some plastics - 330 to 400°C.
Heat guns look a lot like hair dryers - but, as many instructions thoughtfully point out, should never be used for drying hair! The method of operation of a hot air gun is similar to a hair dryer: a fan pulls air into the body of the tool and drives it across an electric heating element and out through a nozzle.
For stripping paint, the heated air is directed onto the painted surface, causing it to soften so that it can be easily stripped off - either by using a stripping knife or hook. For best results it is best to work up the surface with the heat gun above the stripping tool, softening the paint just before the stripping tool reaches it. The tool is used one-handed, with the other hand to hold the stripping tool.
Some heat guns can be used sitting on a bench so that two hands are free to use the hot air for other applications.