Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
Unplugged our fridge for a month while on vacation. Cleaned it out and left doors open with power turned off. Returned after a month and plugged it in. It cooled right down, but after cooling down and switching off, it didn't cycle back on. The fridge and freezer warmed back up. After a few hours, it turned back on and cooled right down again. But the same thing happened. Any ideas what might be wrong?
Thanks from a longtime Whirlpool fan (washer, dryer, stove, refrig, microwave), now residing in Udon, Thailand
SOURCE: fridge/freezer not cool.
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,
I believe your problem is an old thermostat or compressor !
How old is it?
My advice is do not put good money into bad!
A new fridge will pay for itself in a few years by using a lot less electricity!
Here is an interesting report I just read!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator
It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please remember to leave me a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
There is a service bulletin related to this, dealing with deformation / melting of the lamp cover. The fix is to change the lamp wire harness to one that now has a thermal protector incorporated in it (part number 6621JK2003B) along with changing the main PCB board to one that uses a larger relay for this function (part number 6871JB1423N).
In case you want or need to replace the following,
The lamp cover is part number 3110JA1096A and the lamp holder is part number 3034JA1009A
I tried to cut and paste a few photo's, but was unsuccessful. Sorry. Make sure to test that fans and light switches work after part changes.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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