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Assuming your generator has the battery charger option? Measure the battery voltage at the battery lead in the generator, without the unit running, or the motorhome ignition on. It should read approx 12V after the unit has been sitting a while. Then start the generator, it should rise to approx 13.8 with a good battery. If it does not then the stator windings and charge rectifier in the generator should be checked. If the voltage is 13.8 approx with the generator then you problem lies further upstream, and possibly with an isolation solenoid. If you generator does not have a battery charge winding/option then charging comes from the line voltage via a motorhomes inverter, check the inverter.
Be careful, not all 12 Volt adaptors are the same. Some put out AC voltage and others DC. You need a 12 V DC adaptor. The adaptors are polralized, that is one output wire is + 12 V and the other is - 12V.. If you connect it backwards you can blow your hard drive.
If your not sure regarding correct polarity, consult a technician who knows how to use a voltmeter.
Also, the current rating of the replacement adaptor must be equal to or greater than the currenr rating of the original. Example: Old adaptor = 375 Ma. , New adaptor = 750 Ma. This would be OK.
If you have any additional questions contact me by clicking on the "Add a comment" link located under your problem description on FixYa. Also, if you believe that this information was helpful to you, please return to the FixYa website and rate my response to your question.
disconnect one terminal of the battery then measure charging voltage betwen +ve and -ve it should be 13.8vdc for one 12v battery if charging voltage is not present then battery is ok then connect ammeter to measure the current in Ampere .take care it should be in series if current if no current then battery must ok opern the ups there is a charger transformer measure i/p voltage to transformer if not present then check i/p path if present then check diodes at o/p of charger if faulty replace it also check capacitor and regulator ic if faulty replace it your problem must be solved
open the screws and disconnect the battery look the voltage written on it and AH (ampere/hour) e.g.12v & 7ah and purchase same value battery and connect look carefully the +ve &-ve polarity of battery and connect in proper way
Since you say, it is a 12v DC portable Jump starter, the battery inside it is also a 12V battery. You need a 12V charger (eliminator, wall adaptor or whatever you may call it) Regarding current, it could be anything above 500 mA. Better if it is a 1A or 2A or even 3 A depending on the amount you are willing to spend. Now is the most important part. The polarity. I do not know it since i do not have this equipment. Most chances are that you will find (on the RoadPro) a circle and a dot (along with a +VE and -VE marked near it) around where you plug in the adaptor. For most equipments the outer circle is the -ve and the inner dot is the +ve. (unfortunately this could be reversed in some equipments) If you can find this notation on your RoadPro you are lucky. Just go to any electronic shop and buy an adaptor (12V) that matches this circle and dot notation. The same symbol representing polarity will be marked on the adaptor also. Else, you will need the assistance of someone who can check the continuity using a multimeter. This way you can find the polarity. It is pretty easy. Hope this helps.
Ideally, if you have a 12v 1.5amp trickle charger, and access to an outlet, keep it plugged in. It will only charge when the battery is low and will not "overcharge" or cause an internal acid spot. you can purchase one at walmart for about $20. If you don't have access to power, you should do a maintanance charge every other month, depending on the 12v current draw of the vehicle when off. Hope this helps.
Make sure that you do not use a 12v charger on a 6v battery ... regardless of any adaptor!
This is a common issue that can be solved if you are a little 'electrically minded': get two different colour coded cables with alligator clips on both ends and using a multimeter check that the positive output of the charger is 'clipped' to the positive terminal of the battery terminal (usually use a 'red' cable) and do the same for the negative parts (using a 'black' cable). To minimize potential issue with a short circuit, I would suggest connecting a low wattage old 12V car bulb (3W recommended) in series between the positive output of the charger and the positive terminal of the battery: this will also limit the current load.
Charger +ve <clip>------<clip><Bulb><clip>--------<clip> +ve Battery
Charger -ve <clip>-------------------------------------------<clip> -ve Battery