Question about GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven
Our built-in GE wall oven started flashing F2 and F3 about a month ago.
After the error code would flash and it would beep, we'd turn it off
then back on and it would keep working. After a couple weeks of that it
wouldn't turn back on after the error code flashed. Right around that
time two burners on our stove burnt out (I had to throw water on it to
put out a fire...that might have had something to do with it. LOL) We
finally got someone to come and look at it. He didn't know what was
wrong with the oven. I told him that I'd read on the internet that it
might be the temperature sensor but he checked it and said it was
working properly. He came back yesterday with the parts to fix the stove
(for $192!) then took the oven apart and started fiddling with things.
He called GE then said that it might be the electronic clock control
(which costs $240) and said he'd be coming back to fix it. Well, after
the guy left my husband turned the oven on just to see what would
happen. It stayed at 425 for over an hour without any problem. We've
been trying the oven every couple of days for weeks and it always
starts beeping then shuts off, so we're shocked that it works now. So
I'm wondering if this is some kind of fluke, or did this guy fix the
problem by disconnecting something then hooking it back up? Should we get our hopes
up, or is the oven just going to start screwing up again in a couple of
days? We're having our fourth baby in a couple weeks and really don't
want to spend this money if we don't need to, but we REALLY need the
oven to work!
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
My GE wall oven is giving F3 Error. Oven will shut off after about 15 min. I then cut the oven back on and it worked fine. This has been happening repeatedly for the last month. Any suggestions?
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 16, 2010 | GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven
Oct 23, 2010 | Amana Ovens
May 26, 2010 | Ovens
May 09, 2009 | GE JRP15 Electric Single Oven
Feb 09, 2009 | Tappan Ovens
Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...
Oct 28, 2008 | GE JRP15 Electric Single Oven
1,631 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: