Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3t Front Load Washer
When the machine is overflowing we just pull out the control knob and it quits, I was able to get at the tube that runs from the level switch to the bottom of the tank and blew in it and it appears to be clear, did not make any difference. I ran several test runs outside holding the drain up higher and this did not make any difference. There appears to be no pattern when its going to overflow?
I assume it's a top load and not a front load ..could be bad pressure switch,small hole somewhere in clear pressure switch hose or least likely a hole on inside within air dome area but not through tub to cause leak
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Mar 10, 2015 | Heating & Cooling
Overflow is usually caused by a "stuck-open" fill valve, with the cold water half of the valve 'sticking' open from sediment buildup inside the valve.
This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let's take a look at these.
First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***'y. Replace the fill valve.
If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.
Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you'll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK
Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now 'hot' - live electric, use extreme caution , u can be SHOCKED), and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.
This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You're blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.
Really old Maytags were known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the 'Corbin' clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off - 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see 'gunk' clogging both the rubber tubing and the 'spud' that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.
Very important: WHENEVER THE PRESSURE TUBE IS REMOVED, BEFORE REINSTALLING IT, BE SURE ALL WATER HAS BEEN SPUN OUT OF THE WASHER! Otherwise, the water fill level will be incorrect and you'll be back in trouble.
May 25, 2011 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer
I think you have something in the flow meter. When the flow meter is restricted on the intake it doesn't turn the flow meter. The spinning turbine is what clears the lights. You will have to take the top off. Pull the plug on the machine from the outlet.
What causes this problem is removing the water tank and then working with the beans. To prevent this from happening is when working on the water system, keep the lid on the beans, and when working on the beans, keep the water tank on the machine and covered.
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