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Re: 14 inch electric chain saw throws chain off
If a new chain ::
make and model is important here, as are guide bar length
a particular chainsaw, may be available with 12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26 inch guide bar,
likewise different saws (even from different makers) use the same size of chain
a chain for this saw may be sold in a variety of lengths or
may be sold in the longest length only and require links removed to suit smaller bars.
back to the store, with the saw, for confirmation
If an old chain::
stretched way beyond safety, replace
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I had a saw that did that and found my blade the chain runs in was bent. Another problem was the groove the chain goes in had a gouge that did not look like much but was just enough to throw the chain. Also check the drive sprocket and make sure it lines up with the groove in the blade the chain runs in.I replaced the blade and its ok now.
The most common would likely be by releasing the chain/blade assembly lock nuts (likely to be two) on the outside of and at the the drive end of the chain, or by first removing a cover over this part of the chain assembly to access these nuts. Next, there could be a tensioner screw assembly located between the inner side of the the saw blade and the motor or possibly at the back of the chain/blade assembly. Screwing this screw in the appropriate direction will tension the blade. After all slack is taken up on the chain (without over-tightening or stressing the chain!), re-tighten the two previously loosened lock nuts that secure the blade in place and replace the cover, if removed. This would most likely be the process for fitting a new chain as well!
its probably like the gas model. so you remove the 2 nuts holding on the side cover of the blade side, remove the cover and the blade and chain. To fit back, slacken the adjuster screw a little bit, or if fitting a new chain then a fair amount, as you have to be careful that the pin on the adjuster fits into the proper hole on the saw bar, as you fit back on the bar, of which you have already cleaned out the grooves. supporting the bar in the slackest position, fit on the chain, making sure that the cutting edge at the bottom is coming towards the motor. Then slide the bar and chain away from the motor to take up the slack, then fit back the metal guide in the original position, fit cover with the adjuster pin in its hole on the bar, and replace the 2 nuts almost tight but slack enough to use the adjuster to set the chain to cutting position..slightly sagging on the sprocket nose type, or snug on the solid nose type..then tighten the cover 2 nuts firmly but not excessively as that will damage the machine..NB the bar & chain depends on the adjuster, not on the nuts tightness to maintain tension
Jeff: Loosen the two nuts on the right side cover of the saw (1/2 inch socket) turn them out 2 turns. Use a flat blade screwdriver on the screw at the right side front of the housing (near where the bar comes out of the saw). Turn the screw right until the chain can only be pulled up 1/8 of an inch at the top center of the bar. tighten the two 1/2 inch nuts. The two nuts clamp the bar so it won't move. If the chain tensioner still won't work, remove the right side housing by removing the two 1/2 inch nuts and look at the tensioner assembly and how it fits into the chain bar. The problem will be obvious. If you need to replace the tensioner assembly, a new one can be ordered through http://www.husqvarna.com.
Remove the cover that cover the rear of the chain bar.Now,loosen the nuts that attach the bar and slide the bar reward.Now set the chain in the slotted part of the bar,pull it forward until there is abut 3/8 of an inch slack in the chain an tighten the nuts.Re-install the cover.
Look on the side of the saw, where the blade/chain enter the plastic case. You will see a nut in there. Loosen the nut, then push the bar backwards towards the saw. It will put slack in the chain and you can pull it off the sprocket/clutch in there. (Use a screwdriver if you can't reach in there with your fingers) and wear gloves... even a dull chain can gouge you if your fingers slip. Once it's off the sprocket, then just pull the whole chain off. To install the new one, put it around the sprocket, make sure the chain guides are lined up with the groove in the bar and on the tip of the bar, then pull out on the bar (away from saw) to take the slack out of the chain. Holding the bar firmly to keep the tension on the chain, tighten the nut again. Bada-bing you're done. Should only take about 5 minutes to change it.
ok i assume it is an electric chain saw? chain usually gets loose and can jump off clutch sprocket . to remedy this there should be atleast one nut or bolt sometimes two nuts or bolts depending on brand and model on the side cover where bar and chain inter the clutch area remove those and cover will lift off second there is a screw that faces front next to bar should be a regular slotted screw head loosenit all the way up till bar gets loose and remove bar by pulling away from saw this will come off veryeasy and chain shoouls fit on teeth of clutch sprocket and fit back onto bar tighten screw till chain tightens up on bar then replace cover and nuts on side cover but do not tighten the with one hand put tension on chain by pulling down on it while tightening screw till chain feels elastic snapping back to bar then toghten up nuts . chain should have no more then 1/4 inch slack around bar this is the correct tension youshould maintain.
You didn't speciy the brand or model, so this is generic. On the right side of the saw there are ususlly two nuts on the sprocket cover. Loosen them enough for the bar on the saw to move up and down. Then, looking at the bottom of the bar from the front, you'll see a slotted screw which loosens or tightens the chain slack.
Hold the bar up by the tip and using a long heavy screwdriver, tighten (to the right) that screw until you see/feel the chain tightening on the bar.
Not too tight. You should be able to put on a pair of gloves and grasp the chain on the top and pull it toward you easily.
By the same token there should be no place where the chain droops away from the bar. If you grasp the chain with a thumb and forefinger it should pull away from the bar a 1/4 to 1/2 ".
Holding the bar up still, tighten the two nuts firmly so the chain will not become loose again.
The hotter the chain gets during sawing the more it will stretch. Be prepared to tighten it occasionally.
the chain should not be sagging from bottom of bar.when you tighten the chain push the nose of saw up so that all of the slack is out of the chain.chain should snap back in the bar if you pull the chain up and let go.when i adjust a chain i push the saw forward to make the bar go up and stay there while i tighten the nuts.hope this helps, let me know