Will not arc, operates as it always did , air set at 70 lbs, air kicks in upon depressing trigger and normally arc begins in about 5 seconds,but now it doesn"t. ckecked ground with meter, contact all the way.incoming voltage checked on both legs coming in,220 v single phase.took torch apart, ohmed out wiring checked good no breaks in torch lead.220 going to primary coil,pulled trigger checked output voltage to torch 16 volts.when torch should kick in two red leds come on on logic board. ? is there a thermal protection overload on these machines and where? can it be reset.fuses checked good
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There are 4 main causes usually with this tool:
1) Check the seal in the bottom of the cylinder (under the bumper) #BF0070 (#12 on the breakdown) If this seal is missing or worn the piston will not always return fully.
2) The pusher spring #GD0253 in the magazine is not moving the nails forward
2) The driver is bent or the tip is worn / chipped
3) The check valve ring #LB0077 on the cylinder is not sealing properly
Let me know if this helps Senco SFN30 15 Ga Finish Nailer Parts
Some thermostats have a swing setting that can be adjusted. A swing is the setting when you want the furnace to stop or start from the desired set point. For example, you set your thermostat at 70 and the swing is set at 10 degrees. Then the furnace will turn on 5 degrees below 70 and shut off 5 degrees above 70. Check you thermostats manual if it has this option.
Sounds like the thermostat, the way to verify is to unplug indoor unit, remove thermostat, take pic of wiring with phone or label the wires as to the terminals. Carefully twist the yellow,(Y) Red (R) and the green (G) together. Plug the furnace back in, if the unit operates normally, replace the thermostat. I am basing this on the fact that the blower speed is changing. This could also be an anomaly within the circuit board in the furnace section, not likely though as the outside unit (condenser) is not controlled n by the indoor board unless this is a heat pump. hope this helps. D
Worn orings in the gun and the trigger valve will cause the gun to fire upon connecting the air. It is a good practice to remove the nails when you remove the airline until you can replace the trigger valve. I believe that you gun uses a TVA6 valve. It should be replaced when it begins to leak or if the trigger pin seems loose and rocks from side to side. Factory valve costs about 25 dollars and aftermarket sells for about 12 to 18 dollars. Good luck
Most nailers have a two position setting on the trigger to allow for single fire or bump fire. If set on bump fire, the gun will work better when you bump fire the gun instead of placing the gun on the work then depress trigger. Bump fire works best when safety spring has good tension. Easy test. Make sure that the safety spring is in place (with air hose removed, contact foot should spring back quickly when pushed against work). With air connected, hold trigger and quickly bounce the gun against the work. If the gun does not fire when you bump, the trigger is most likely set to single fire. With trigger set to single fire, you must place the gun against the work, then depress trigger. If the gun shoots two nails while set to single fire, most likely worn trigger or worn out trigger valve. These parts are not expensive and are easy to replace. Good luck
Even after replacing thermostat and motherboard offered from company, my heater would trigger e3 error code and shut off. After several (maybe 100!) different attempts to plug in and operate, here is what worked for me!
Depress the power button on the heater while plugging in to wall circuit. Continuously depress power button. It will run through a test cycle and attempt to start. Keep depressing the power button as the heater tries to start, then shuts down with e3 error. While the power button is still depressed, unplug the unit from the wall. When I plug back in the wall the E3 error is gone. Good luck
Hi; Check the following troubleshoot and see if you can ID the problem:
Problem: Gas flows continuously when power is turned on, AC indicator flashes
1. Torch switch is activated (closed) before user turns power on.
a. Release torch switch.
2. Faulty torch switch
a. Check torch switch for continuity. Replace if necessary.
Problem: Gas flows continuously; Torch will not pilot when torch switch is activated; AC indicator ON
1. System is in SET mode
a. Change to RUN / Rapid Auto Restart / SET switch to RUN (up).
Mostly of the problems found is that customer has the switch line on to SET instead of RUN.
Hope this help. Have a good afternoon.
There is no mention of the Thermal Dynamic's gun model, but i will suppose that it is a SL60 or a SL100 which are replacement guns for any model of plasma using the proper adaptor.
Your problem could be the start cartridge which go bad now and then when the gun is used as a replacement of a hammer to make the cut piece to fall.
The way to check if your start cartridge is in good condition is by checking the low part of the cartridge, push it up (or down depending on the way you handle it) it should freely slide inside and return out.