Question about Panasonic PT-51HX42 51" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

HEAT Do you think I could have messed something up when i was removing the old ic's. what i mean is what if i put too much heat with the sotering iron on the board when i took them off.

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  • LINYCINTX Sep 27, 2008

    YES. three or four of the little pieces of the trace pad came off near tthe pins. are they critical to operation?

  • LINYCINTX Sep 27, 2008

    Whats a wire jumper?

  • LINYCINTX Sep 28, 2008

    I jumped the ic chips and put it all back togeather. it still does not work. but its only blinking the red light once now insteasd of three times. any suggestions?

  • LINYCINTX Sep 28, 2008

    What does the red light blinking once mean?

  • LINYCINTX Sep 28, 2008

    How do I trouble shoot that or repair that?

  • LINYCINTX Sep 28, 2008

    I dont know what a flyback look slike on the board?

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  • Panasonic Master
  • 8,617 Answers

The only thing that may have happened is the pad that the pins go through could have been detached if they lifted when removing the old ICs . Did you notice if any of the trace pads lifted?

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 27, 2008

    yes as they are what conducts the current from the IC pin to the circuit. If you look closely you will see which trace goes to those pads and you can put a wire jumper from the pin to the first component on that same trace. Because if the pads are missing there is no way for the current to pass from the pin to the circuit.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 28, 2008

    its the only way to get current from the IC to the circuit if the pads are missing as the pads are connected to their individual traces.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 28, 2008

    are you certain that all the pads that came off are now jumped? You can check with a ohms meter for continuity from the pin to the first component on that trace. If its has continuity its ok if it doesnt then it will need to be jumped.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 28, 2008

    red light blinking once means +140 volt supply has a problem.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 28, 2008

    The 140V supply is usually related to the flyback. I would just doble check the solder on the flyback and components next to the flyback.

  • Sonny Berry
    Sonny Berry Sep 28, 2008

    Its the large transformer on the board on the right with the large red wire coming out of the top of it .

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How can chang sony tv stk ic


if it is a sony check to see if any of those little green resistors are blown first. most sonys have the stk chips on the main deflection board.they will be next to each other with a big heat sink on each.have a soldering and desoldering iron ready as well as tape and marker for the wires.. remove the wires from the board you dont have to take the board all the way out. start desoldering each pin. if some pins are stuck just touch the pin with the iron. clean the heat sinks.apply themal paste to the new ics. put the new ics through the holes and start soldering. this part can be tricky. put the tip on the pin the solder will flow just quickly remove the solder then the iron 36 times and your done.

Sep 11, 2010 | Hitachi 43FWX20B 43" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Has double image, and red goes at a angle.I think


What you might be experiencing based on your symptom sounds like a damaged convergence IC.

I do not think that it is an adjustment or the mirror, based upon your description. I also do not think it can adjust itself.

With any Projection Television that has a damaged convergence IC, you do not want to continue the use of the set. If the IC’s continue to fail they will cause a short in the power supply and cause your television to not power up, and possibly damage the CRT’s in the set.

With that aside I have some support suggestions that I have put together that may help you make an informed decision.

You should be able to get a local service center to repair this at
your house for between $350.00 - $450.00, If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you.
While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky. If you have a 45W soldering iron, solder, solder wick, and
heat sink compound you can repair it yourself.

When you remove the old IC's, please be sure to remove all of the old
heat sink compound, as it can act as an insulation for the new IC's and cause them to overheat. I usually clean the heat sinks with alcohol and a small rag.

There are two and large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. Some of the newer sets only have one. If you only have one, it is right in the middle of the set on the center
circuit board. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. They will have a part number stamped on them that will start with an STKXXX-XXX, like STK392-110.

Along with the convergence IC’s there will also be some associated components that will need to be replaced as well. There are some resistors that are part of the convergence circuit that will be open and need to be replaced. Most likely these will appear charred in the center. If you have an Ohm Meter or a DVM, check all the resistors that are close to the IC’s and you should be looking for either ones that have opened or have changed values.

If one of the convergence IC’s are found to be bad, I would replace them both, if one has gone bad the other may go soon. I usually order my parts from Andrews
Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need.
Their site is
http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx
And their
phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666
I recommend the
phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.

I would also advise that the convergence IC’s be OEM or better, just because they are cheap does not mean that they are a
good deal. I have seen the cheap IC’s fail after a short time, even though they look exactly like the OEM IC’s. I think that the bottom line is that you will get what you pay for when it comes to the parts.

You can also try
http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ , I have not tried them yet, but they do carry OEM or better parts.


I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.

Thanks for using FixYa
asnowman


I have attached some photos of really bad convergence problems, your picture may not be exactly as bad as these.
6c75b09.jpg 9ed3668.jpg

Oct 27, 2009 | Toshiba 50H81 50" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

How to replace convergence ICs in samsung


You will need:
  1. Convergence ICs.
  2. Heat sink grease or thermal compound.
  3. Soldering iron.
  4. Solder lead.
  5. Digital multimeter.
  6. Solder pump.
  7. Small side cutter.
Steps:
  1. Unplug the unit from the AC outlet.
  2. Remove the screws and take the back panel off the TV. The convergence ICs are located behind a large heat sink.
  3. Remove the board that the ICs are on.
  4. Check all the big resistors on the board using the digital multimeter. Some resistors are connected in parallel so they read half of their nominal resistance.
  5. Check the board for cracked solders and tracks.
  6. Cut all the legs of the ICs and unscrew them from the heat sink to take them out.
  7. Remove all the legs by applying soldering iron on one side and pulling on the other side.
  8. Clean the holes for the new ICs with the soldering iron and solder pump.
  9. Clean the heat sink from the old thermal compound or grease and apply the new one to the ICs.
  10. Fit the new ICs legs on the holes and screw them to the heat sink. Wipe excessive grease. Make sure they are making good contact with the heat sink.
  11. Cut excessive length of legs. Leave about 2mm and solder it in.
  12. Clean solder points with lacquer thinner or even alcohol.
  13. Make sure no solder is going to two legs at the same time.
  14. Put all back together.
  15. You may need to readjust the convergence on the menu.

Oct 24, 2009 | Samsung HCN653W 65" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Removing ic's from heat sink


remove the board completely then heat the pins from the bottom side of the board and use solder wick to soak up the old solder then the ICs will need to be pried off the heat sink as the compound makes a tight bond.

Apr 14, 2008 | JVC AV-56WP74 56" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

IC replacement Question


Check this site for more info on a rebuilt board becuase I do no think Panasonic will have new boards.

Apr 07, 2008 | Panasonic PT-47WX53 47" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Red & BLue Overlay And Wavy Picture


. they are located on a huge heat sink inside your set. Just look for the largest aluminum heat sink inside your set. You will notice them they are large black ICs with about 16 pins on them. Just unsolder the old ones and solder in the replacements. just be sure to put some heat sink compound on the back of the new ICs where they contact the heat sink. You can get a de-soldering iron at radio shack with a rubber bulb to make the de-soldering alot easier and you will also need a low wattage soldering Iron to solder in the new ones. Just mark any wires you remove to get the convergence module out. That way you will know where the wires plug in when your finished. It will need a convergence adjustment when your finihed. Be careful not to bridge any of the pins with excess solder. Inspect the pins with a magnifying glass when your finished to make sure the solder from any adjacent pins arent touching each other. If you need to know where to buy replacement ICs let me know.

Jan 22, 2008 | Akai PTH5498 54" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Akai pth 5498


Your Convergence amp ICs are bad. Heres how you fix It.
they are located on a huge heat sink inside your set. Just look for the largest aluminum heat sink inside your set. You will notice them they are large black ICs with about 16 pins on them. Just unsolder the old ones and solder in the replacements. just be sure to put some heat sink compound on the back of the new ICs where they contact the heat sink. You can get a de-soldering iron at radio shack with a rubber bulb to make the de-soldering alot easier and you will also need a low wattage soldering Iron to solder in the new ones. Just mark any wires you remove to get the convergence module out. That way you will know where the wires plug in when your finished. It will need a convergence adjustment when your finihed. Be careful not to bridge any of the pins with excess solder. Inspect the pins with a magnifying glass when your finished to make sure the solder from any adjacent pins arent touching each other.

Jan 06, 2008 | Akai PTH5498 54" Rear Projection...

4 Answers

Tv is (bowing) rainbow effect, now turns on for second then shuts off


I had the same problem. The issue may be the same although I am not sure the powering off is related to the convergence issue. This is what I did: 1. Order the STK392-570 convergence IC and heat sink thermal transfer paste( I silicone based)..(make sure it is a reputable company so you don't risk getting bad components, I got them from an electronics supplier in MD) 2. UNPLUG YOUR TV AND ALL COMPONENTS!!!! 3. Remove the back cover and black plastic cover. (retain all parts) 4. remove the retaining bolts and screws on the black plastic tray (they are on the sides verticle mounted and front center as you are looking down on the tray.) This allows the tray to slide out like a keyboard on a computer desk. DONT PULL IT OUT YET!!!! 5. Just above the boards there is a shade board that slides out. Carefully pull it out. 6. You will have to unplug all cables ON THE BOARDS except for the RED ONES ON THE FAR RIGHT and provide tension relief for the cables by carefully unraveling them. The cables are marked on the connector and match to the markings on the board (I.E. KM, all connectors are marked with a two letter designation) Just disconnect the cables from all the boards and nothing elese. 7. Now carefully slide the tray about half way so you can see the contents of the entire center board. This is the board you need. Look in the back center of the board. There is a really large heat sink. The ICs are on the back side of this heat sink. They are held in place by a retaining bar that sandwiches the heat sink to the ICs. 8. There are some connectors on three sides of the board that are flat and white. CAREFULLY ....AND I MEAN CAREFULLY pull the left (as you are looking at board) ones up and disconnect from the center board. The ones on the right (I think they disconnect from the right board). 9. Unscrew the board from the plastic tray. There are a lot of them around the perimeter and center as well as the ones that hold the heat sink onto the board ( they also hold the board onto the tray.) You have to remove the "sandwich bar" (refer to 7)in order to get at the screws that hold the heat sink to board. (you have to unscrew them. 10. There is a box shaped cover on the left front part of this board that is screwed onto board and is also part of the retension to the plastic board, remove it to. (always remember to be careful when tugging, unscrewing, ect as it could result in breaking somthing) 11. There are black plastic tabs to the rear of the board. Unhook those and CAREFULLY lift and pivot the board forward and then up and out. 12. Now comes the easy part. You may have to pry the heat sink from the ICs carefully because of heat sink paste. Clean off the heat sink (dont use cleaner, just wipe the old grease off) 13. Use a good soldering iron (PACE, regulated, good desoldering iron) The temp just needs to be high enough to heat solder. 14. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE CARD THAT WE TALKED ABOUT EARLIER that is in the front left of the board. You dont want it to break. Turn the board over so the chips are facing down. Take the desoldering tool and put it over the pins and in a circular motion until it heats the solder and push the sucker button. Do this to all of them that relate to the ICs. DONT KEEP IT TOO LONG ON BOARD. once you have done that to all pins, gentely tug on the chip wiggling it out. (carefully!!!!!) if you feel resistance desolder a little more. Make sure your desolder device is giving enough suction. 15. Now solder them back on and make sure you dont create any cold solder joints. This would be bad!!!! 16. Apply a decent amount of thermal heat transfer (grease, goo, ect) Make sure you do this or bad things will happen. You need this stuff. You can get it at radio shack. 17. Now put it back together and hurray you are done... Hope this helps... GOOD LUCK DJ

Mar 09, 2007 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Replacing The IC's


Use a digital camera to take pictures of the chassis. Review the pictures to see if they can be used to reassemble the wiring plugs or restore the wire tie up positions. Remove the three screws that are located on the front edge of the chassis. After removing wires from their tie up positions or disconecting plugs the goal is to move the chassis into a position to expose the bottom side. Find a place to tie up the chassis using a piece of wire to one of the back screws to anchor this position. Use fresh solder wick and a 60Watt iron to remove the heat sink solder tabs switch to a 25 to 30 watt iron to remove the solder on the STK392-560 ic's. Remove the ic's from the heat sink and apply fresh heat sink grease before mounting the new ic's to the heat sink. Line the pins uniformly on the ic's if needed to install the ic/heat sink assembly. Use a flashlight or lamp to make it easier to see if the pins line up. Twist the solder tabs on the heat sink to secure it's position. Make shure all pins are present to solder in place on the bottom side.

Dec 05, 2006 | Sony KP-43HT20 43" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

CONVERGENCE PROBLEM... I THINK


This kind of problem ussually starts by being intermitant and the first thing to try is to resolder all the pins in the convergence IC's , they create a lot of heat and are mounted on heat sinks for that reason but after a while the solder cracks and it does not make a good conection,down the road they migh need to be replaced but for now lets hope they only need resoldered as well as many other overheated areas in the chassis.Let us know if you need more information.

Nov 06, 2006 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

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