Question about Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges
I believe a power outage messed up the Control Board to my Whirlpool oven model RF365PXMT 2. I purchased a new CONTROL BOARD (part # 6610454) and installed it.. For some reason it makes a buzzin' noise when i plug in the oven and when I try to bake something. Any suggestions?? Thank you in advance...
Oven ==> http://www.appleappliances.com/product.php?model=RF365PXMT
Control Board ==>http://store.valueweb.com/servlet/zapplian/-strse-12855/Biscuit-Electronics-Controls-Boards/Detail
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Oven Control not working
Vahid, is the display black, nothing there? Try pressing the bake and broil pads together for 3 seconds until display shows SF. Then press clock. If this doesn't work try the ERC test by doing this; Kill the power to the range for 10 seconds. Press the cooking time, delay start and number 8 pads all together. The display should show the word test. Give this a shot first....Catriver..post back.
Posted on Nov 12, 2006
the most common problem for your description is that your bottom ignitor is not working properly just because the ignitor glows doesnt mean your ignitor is working it has to draw 3 amps or more to ignite the bottom burner part number for the ignitor is 12400035 let me know how you make out
Posted on Sep 12, 2007
SOURCE: maytag gemini MER6769BAW
Power to that element comes directly from the oven control. If you have replaced the element and all wiring is ok then the control is bad even if you hear it clicking. The part # is 74006213 and cost is $298.99 @ http://www3.sears.com/.
Part # for http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=48695 is AP377973 and their price is $230.53.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
although you dont have hte model number , that is indeed a correct and valid part number for the control lists for a about $120. since your back there give a quick look at the wiring into the unit, is that ok ??? adn where the burnout is on the control does it appear to have shorted out against the back wall??? perhaps a relay on the board just blew??? i really wouldn't thinkn tha another component was goning to make that go bad, also ck the bake and broil elements for continuity, perhapa wire fell off the element blowing out the control
Posted on Mar 20, 2008
SOURCE: Jenn Aire Model SVE47600W
Thank you so much for this information. I can verify that this procedure worked (at least for me). I ordered the part from Digi-Key Corp (it was up to a whooping $.28), replaced the old capacitor, plugged everything back in and bam! A working display. There was a beeping and error message but after hitting the Cancel button on the stove, everything was working.
Note that this fixed the dimmed display only. All the other controls were still working--only the display was off. If you have other issues, this might not be a complete solution.
You need basic soldering skills, a small solder iron, a solder ******, and some rosin-core solder. The capacitor is labeled on the circuit board.
When taking the unit off the control panel the largest ribbon cable was clear plastic with embedded contacts. I'd never seen one of these before. The cable's contacts slide in behind the pins on the connector and are held against it by an insert in the connector. When I removed the insert, the clear plastic cable came completely out from the connector. I had thought I'd broken it. But just slide it back in behind the pins, aligning the cable contacts with the pins and put in the connector insert to hold them in place.
The Digi-Key part number for the capacitor is P10292-ND. I ordered 5, just to have a few spares. The 5 caps plus first class postage came to a total of $3.51. Quite a difference from the $160 for the whole unit!
Thanks again to ultigerfan for making this information available.
Posted on May 07, 2009
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