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You did not mention if it was both sides that quit or just one. If it is both sides then the only thing they have in common is the belt and tightener other then that they are two totally separate units.
If it was one side only then I would be checking the plastic fan on the pulley on top of the side that quit. It is a 7 inch 10 blade plastic fan.When it breaks or most of the fins fly off it does not cool the oil inside of it, there is only 1 3/4 quart inside. With time off getting hot it will condensate on the inside and make the 20w50 motor oil watery and it will foam and load the system with air and it stops pulling. The transmission will need to be removed to replace the fan blade. There is 5 bolts and 3 wire clips. I would strongly encourage you to remove the filler plug and dump out that oil and replace with new. I have two of thease mowers and can take the drive unit out in about a hour. http://www.outdoordistributors.com/pdf/hydro-gear/zc-zd_service_manual.pdfGenuine Hydro Gear FAN 7 0 BLADE HYG 53050
Emergency weld for all metal radiators. Those mechanically inclined This is a procedure for emergency repair only when you can’t get to a shop and you need to fix a leak in a radiator. First you will need three things one d size battery 12 feet of #12 copper wire or 2 strands 6 feet long. And a pair of needle nosed pliers and some mechanical solder flux core 60/10 resin.Find the fin in the radiator that is leaking with the needle nose pliers remove the cooling fns, these are thin the actual water cores are thinker, once you find the leak with the needle nose pliers remove 1 to 2 inches of the cooling fins from the radiator (Ones Not holding water) give them a twist and pull out the thin fins. Next drain the radiator below the leak snip the cooling fin right where the leak is and with the needle nose pliers bend back the cooling fin by a ¼ inch on both sides. Clean with sand paper or dry as best as you can. Take the D size battery and remove the center carbon core by removing the top, this is toxic so keep it off your hands. Next wrap a wire around the positive post and wrap the other end of the wire around the d battery core. Now ground the radiator with the other cable to the negative side and place it near the crimped side using the d battery core on the area that is bent and put solder onto the bent fin, do this on both sides. Be sure the solder is silver before removing the d core from fin; also hold the core with the needle nose pliers so that you don’t get burned. Let cool add coolant heat the motor up to see if it leaks if it don’t your good to go, be sure to refill the radiator back up with fluid, anything will do to get you home, except motor oil brake fluid or transmission fluid. Beer wine water and antifreeze are the best. This will get you home till you get it fixed; this is for those that have that luck when you need it most it breaks.
The timing on a lawnmower engine is controlled by the positioning of the flywheel on the crankshaft. There is a key (square metal pin) holding the flywheel at a predetermined location on the crankshaft. If the engine is out of time, the flywheel has slipped on the crankshaft (hitting a rock, brick or anything else solid with the blade will cause this.
1. Disconnect the spark plug wire. 2. Remove the motor upper housing (usually a 3/8 or 7/16 bolt). 3. Remove the bolt at the center of the flywheel (use an impact wrench if you have one... or wedge a large screwdriver against one of the cooling fins and the magnet boss, not between two fins or you may break a fin. 4. Use a wheel puller to remove the flywheel. 5. Remove the square key that is between the flywheel and the crankshaft, (you'll notice that the key is damaged and will need to be replaced. Home Depot or Lowe's or any lawnmower repair shop should have a new key. 5. Install the new key in the slot on the crankshaft. 6. Reinstall the flywheel. (if the magnets are rusty, now would be a good time to gently sand the rust off of them, but do not mess with the magnetic pickup as the gap distance between the pickup and the flywheel is crucial) 7. Reinstall the top cowling. Your mower should be ready.
I will take you up on the beer if we get this going.
If the fan is running and not cooling there is one thing that would be repairable other than that it is not worth it.
Go to the back of the freezer and at the bottom is the compressor (looks like a bowling ball, kinda anyway). Unplug the freezer, on the side of the compressor is a small black cover with wires going into it. Pry off this cover and you will see a couple of parts, these are the overload protector and relay.
Take a picture with your phone or digital camera so you know how they hook up then pull them off, they are tight but will pull straight off. If the relay rattles the part is bad, that simple. If not I will have to buy you a beer as you will most likely need a new freezer
Open the top ... held down with spring clips ... remove the front panel ... probably 2 to 4 screws ... be careful of the wires ... unplug the machine of course. Remove the drum ... but first observe the belt arrangement so you can reinstall. Tighten the 'fins'. Reverse the procedure.
You can use a pry or large screw driver to pop the top. Be careful of the finish.
theese wire that goes to the fins are your thermostat probes it possible that your thermostat is defective if you take your thermostat and bypass the two wire connected to it toghether if your fridge works replace the thermostat thanks from gilles