When I disconnect the amp fuse and then reconnect again, work for a couple of seconds and then the ofside indicator the one in the middle turns from green to yellow and stop the sound in the woofers, what could be the issue?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: XM-552HX ofside led turn yellow
You may have an issue with the impedence of the woofers causing the unit to go into protection mode. Make sure that the woofers are no lower than 2 ohms at the amp. This can be done with a voltmeter to check. You are better off running the woofers at 4 ohms if possible. If you disconnect the speaker wire from the amp, does the yellow light still come on? If so, then there may be a problem with the amp.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You indicated that the battery went dead. Does the new battery work correctly? That is, does it show a full charge when you've had it plugged in overnight and disconnect the power? Try plugging it into AC power overnight and verify that the battery is accepting and holding a full charge. If it isn't, then unplug and turn the unit on and allow the battery to run all the way down. Then charge it fully. This resets the charge indicator. You may have to repeat it once. I did this and was able to again show that both my new and my old battery were working o.k. They should show about 8.1 V fully charged.
About the Nexrad problem. In the past I would need to refresh the XM receiver when this happened. XM walked me through it and I have the steps, but the links are no longer working. Maybe it is no longer required since the XM link now jumps to SiriusXM. I've not needed to refresh for a couple of years and I suspect they eliminated that requirement.
To verify that the XM antenna is connected:
Turn unit off.
Connect the XM receiver.
Simultaneously press "on" and "enter" keys- hold both until data screen appears, which takes about 5 seconds.
Second line from bottom indicates if it is seeing the XM receiver. This helps isolate where the problem is- i.e. if you have a faulty receiver, bad connection or a software problem. The only contact I know of now is Garmin 800-800-1020. They can give you the XM contact if the problem is on that side of the unit.
There is other data here which may be of interest to you on this page.
Turn unit off to close this window.
If you need your XM radio ID, turn 396 on.
Press menu, menu, scroll to XM, then right to Info.
XM Receiver ID is there. Write it down in case you talk to XM or they give you a way to refresh.
There are other menus you can get into but if they show a problem I don't know the solution other than contacting Garmin and I don't have my XM receiver home so can't verify the steps.
1. Turn off the printer. And disconnect the printer cable. 2. Press and hold the POWER button, turn on the printer. 3. The indicator (L.E.D.) should be green. 3. Press and release the RESUME button , the indicator (L.E.D.) should be orange. 4. Press and release the RESUME button again, the indicator (L.E.D.) should be green. 5. Release both buttons. 6. Reconnect the printer cable. 7. Open General Tools software and select (USB PORT) 8. Choose (SET DESTINATION 1) And with luck it should be reset.let me know if that works >?
1st you need to either buy or make the "SCS Service Connector" #07PAZ-0010100 from H and A Accesories for $3.51. Use a speaker harness for an older Honda which you can buy at a local stereo shop such as Circuit City or Best Buy, and cut the wires and looped them together. You can also use a paperclip but that will make it a little more difficult because you have to connect it and disconnect it a few times quickly.2nd you need to find the MES (Memory Erase Signal) connector as pictured below It is a yellow connector with two wires in it that is plugged into the fuse box, unplug it and pull it down. Once you have done that you can begin the process of erasing the memory. NOTE: This will only reset your SRS System if what caused it to trigger has been fixed, Ex: turning the ignition on with any SRS Plugs disconnected, such as pulling your seat out.
1st step in erasing the memory is to turn the ignition off and connect the SCS Service connector to the MES Plug.
2nd Turn Ignition on. SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds then go off.
3rd Disconnect SCS service connector for MES connector within 4 seconds after SRS indicator light goes off. SRS indicator light will come on again.
4th Reconnect SCS service connector the MES connector within 4 seconds after SRS light comes on. SRS indicator light will go off.
5th Disconnect SCS service connector from MES connector within 4 seconds. SRS indicator light will indicate that memory is erased by blinking 2 times.
6th Turn ignition off, and wait 10 seconds. Start vehicle like normal and light should come on and go out like normal. You have reset your SRS light, congrats.
If it does not work the first time try it again, the timing has to be perfect. My first time it took me 3 attempts before it worked, but it did work.
Disconnect all speakers, then turn the amp on. If there is no internal problem with the amp, it will go green. If it does go green, reconnect your speakers one at a time with the amp off then turn it on. when you connect the speaker that's causing the problem, the amp will go into protection. At this point, it's one of two things, a bad speaker wire (screw thru it or touching another terminal) or a bad speaker(burnt voice coil) to test that wire, disconnect the wire at the speaker and turn on the amp, if it's still green, all's well in the wire department. Meter the speaker with a multimeter on resistance, if it's blown the meter will read 1.... If you don't have a meter, connect the speaker that's having the problem to the other channel and test again, if it goes into protection, you've got your answer. Bad speaker. Hope this helps
Well you obviously aren't getting a signal to the amp telling to turn on. You need to take the amp to an audio shop who has a test bench and ask them to determine what other problems you might have. Quite honestly though there are better amps out there maybe you should just upgrade.
First off, according to the manual, the protect light should be green. That's normal operation. If it is red, that's a problem.
If it does go red, disconnect all of the wiring to the amp except the +12V and ground. Short the remote connection to the +12V to force the amp on. If the protect light still lights red, the issue is inside the amp and will need repair. If the issue goes away, try reconnecting one wire at a time until the protect light goes red again.
Are you certain you put the wires back on the amp the exact way they came off. I am not familiar with this amp but most amps if you look at the terminals where the speakers hook up there will be a plus and a minus. And generally there are four terminals. hence stereo plus and minus left and right. Some even have eight for, four channels. Since the amp is on, not getting hot and you tried two different audio inputs I would suspect speaker wiring or maybe the stuff you put in your trunk bumped a switch on the amplifier. I know this is not the exact answer you are probaly looking for but it is at least a place to start