Question about Thermador C301U Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven Stays Cold - Intermittent Problem

When this intermittent problem appears, our oven will not heat, broil nor clean. However, there is no error code, the display pretends the function is engaged properly, the cooling fan turns on, the door locks (in the case of the self clean mode).

This problem will sometimes disappear by fiddling between modes, or turning off the circuit breaker for over an hour, but there is never a sure way to make it go away. Today, I have tried everything and its not gowing away. I am turning to you for a *permanent* solution.

What is going on? What should be repaired or replaced to fix the problem?

Posted by on

  • Anonymous Jan 12, 2009

    I have a similar problem (however, mine is not intermittent, but I may try to turn off the circuit breaker for more than a quick flip of the switch and see what happens). Mine stopped working after I used the self-cleaning function.

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  • Master
  • 943 Answers

Hi thanks for the question look at the cord that plugs into the wall you could have a bad connection in that outlet remove the plug from the wall and look at the prongs if its a bad connection they will be discolored check that the appliance doc

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

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The bottom oven is not functioning properly. When turned to fan oven the fan works intermittently and the element intermittently glows red hot


1.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


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May 04, 2015 | De Dietrich Ovens

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My samsung flat top electric oven or broiler want work and it's reading error code E-08


E08 is a oven heating error which basically means there is either a problem with the heater or the oven sensor. In this case i would check the oven sensor with an ohms meter. should read around 1080 ohms at room temp. Also try unplugging the unit for 30 seconds.

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Oven


If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas.

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1 Answer

Oven shows an F2 flashing after self cleaning along with a beeping sound.


Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
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· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem. · Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
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· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
· Look for electrical noise interference in the oven temperature sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone, etc.).

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Hello there:
F2
Note: Also see fan thermal switches Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation.
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· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem. · Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
· Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc.
· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
· Look for electrical noise interference in the oven temperature sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone, etc.).

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www.appliancehelponline.com

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The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.

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Neither the oven or broil element comes on. No error code appears, any thoughts?


Hi.

If both broiling and baking element are not heating, then the most common fault causing the problem is a defective temperature probe.

The probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electroning oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

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THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

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1 Answer

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You need to give us the model number. Check that the air flow switch in the electronics compartment is actually picking up.Other wise you may be having a problem with the relay board. Post the number so we may be able to offer more help

Regards
Dont forget to rate

Sep 25, 2008 | Ovens

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