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Re: d3000/1 precisionpower amp mono
Caution: even if you have the part to replace it be sure that you know what you're doing. Check for dc voltage at the output line before even connecting/soldering the power transistors. You might fry it again if you don't. hope this helps.
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What is the speaker load in Ohms that you are running? Or what exactly is hooked up to it? are you bridging it? The protection light will come on if the load is too much for the amp to handel. If the load (in Ohms) is less than the rated load that it can run, it will stop the output to keep the amp from self destructing. The amp will sense that the demand for power will be too high for the amps circuitry which will either make the amp get so hot that it will burn up the copper on the board or more likely burn up the power mosfetts that power the speakers. If the Ohms are within range then it will allow power to flow through the circuit until the rails that the mosfetts are bound to until they get so hot that it will go into thermal protection. So if your amp has both thermal and overload protection lights and the overload is light then the load is probably too much for the amp. if it's bridged in mono the you can only have 1 speaker setup hooked up it if it's a 2 channel amp. a 4 channel amp bridged in mono for both front and rear channels will be able to have 2 speakers rated a 4 ohms each hooked up to the amp 1 set per bridged output or channel. Try it running in stereo with only 1 speaker per channel and see if it will produce sound. If not then you have an amp that has internal problems and will need to be serviced. Check your warranty to see if you are covered.
If you're ever unsure about how you need to wire your subwoofers to get the correct ohm load to your amplifier there are a few resources to help. Usually in the owners manual that comes with your subs and your amp they include a detailed ohm load calculator. First step is to determine what subwoofers you have. Common subs come in a dual 2 ohm or a dual 4 ohm version or a single 2 ohm or a single 4 ohm version. Next determine what ohm load your amplifier is rated at. Mono "subwoofer" amps usually are rated x amount of watts at either a 2 or a 1 ohm load. This means you need to purchase the correct subwoofer combination to match your amp. If youre purchasing 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm subs then to maximize an amp you should buy a mono amp stable at 1 ohm. and Dual 2 ohm subs would need a 2 ohm stable amp wired in series parallel. A great resource for a beginner is to go to www.the12volt.com and on the top of the page find the words "subwoofer wiring diagram" and click on it. This will bring you to a drop down menu where you choose the number of drivers "subs" or "speakers" you have and then you choose the impedence in the next drop down menu. Next you'll be provided with multiple wiring options. Good luck and never think you can't do it yourself. Once you learn it's very easy to retain.
Make sure your remote wire is hooked up in the right spot, also check your rca plugs and consider replacing them, check all fuses to make sure their not blown, a loose or not good ground wire or power supply wire will also cause this problem. If a power wire has a cut in it, that will also cause fuses to blow, as well as with a ground wire cut, ur amp will not be properly grounded.
find the ohms on each subwoofer and how much it can handle. If you have two 4 ohm subs get a powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallal. If you have two 2 ohm subs get a (1 ohm stable) Powerful MONO AMP and hook it up in parallel or a powerful 2 CHANNEL AMP but the wiring can be a little complicated cause you've got to connect the subs in series and bridge it on the positive of 1 channel and the negative of 2nd channel for maximium benefit without burning out the 2 channel amp. If you got two 500 Watt subs then you got to find an amp that can put out 1000Watts anything less wont sound good and may burn out the subs because of too much distortion cause of lack of power.
That's pretty much it. I would get two ground distrubution blocks (1 large guage in / 4 smaller out). Use one on the power side and one on the ground side. the extra "outs" can be used to add a cap or another amp later if needed.
The cable should not cause the problem unless it is shorting out somewhere on the remote or positive cable. I would use a larger gauge wire first as this is the cheaper way to go, and if the same problem occurs you are having a short in the sub or box causing the protection mode. You will have to back trace to find possible cross connections.
Broken legs on the rectifiers or an intermittently shorted common mode inductor would be the likely suspects. The common-mode inductor is just to the right of the capacitors in the photo. Install a single 15 amp fuse in ONE of the 4 fuse holders (other 3 fuse holders empty) and power up the amp. Twist the inductor to see if the amp draws excessive current (which would blow the fuse) or to see if it sparks.
I'm not familiar with that particular amp but generally, the only transistors that burn are the ones in the power supply. If the adjacent transistors had numbers like IRFZ44, IRF3205 or similar, the burned transistor is likely the same as the ones next to it.
Confirm that the center and right-most leg of the burned transistor and the transistor next to it are directly connected by large traces on the circuit board. Also confirm that the center leg goes to the large windings of the power transformer. If it passes these tests, the transistor is one of the power supply FETs. The numbers on the adjacent (parallel connected) parts will be the same as the burned one.
I'm not familiar with this amplifier but in most cases, if a mono amp has more than one positive speaker terminal and more than one negative speaker terminal, the positives are directly connected and the negatives are directly connected. So as long as you connect the speaker positive to a positive speaker terminal of the amp and the speaker negative to a negative speaker terminal of the amp, it will work properly.