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Re: What is Class rated for the speaker wires?
NEC rating for speaker wire installation link : http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/inwallrating.htmI Interesting reading however that doesn't answer your question directly... You may have to speak with the local building/wring inspector if you are concerned about the rating. CL2 & CL3 are suitable for in wall use. If I were you, I would solicit the information from the place you purchased your wire.. they must have a direct line of communication with the supplier /manufacturer and should ba able to provide that information.
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Are you aware of the fact that your factory radio is connected to the class 2 serial data communication network . You need a interface module to hook up to aftermarket radios . If you don't use this interface module your vehicle will not start an run an the warning chimes will not work .
The audible warnings alert the driver of a system concern or a critical vehicle condition. The radio generates the audible warnings through the left front speaker. The radio receives audible warning requests via the class 2 serial data line. If the radio receives multiple audible warning requests, the warning with the highest priority sounds first. The following lists the audible warning priority and the pulse rate:
More information is needed. Brick wall is inside apartment... what is on other side of wall? Open existing electrical box. Drill through back of box and drill through wall until you come out on other side of wall. Install new box #1 on wall where drill comes out. Run conduit over to another new box#2. Drill through wall again until you come out on inside brick wall where you want to relocate original box. Install new surface-mount box#3 on brick wall. Then run wiring from original box. Original box cannot be bricked over or covered with building materials since it is a junction box where wires connect. Other option is to install extension ring on top of existing electric box. Run conduit across face of brick wall. Install new box#1 where you need outlet. Other option is to chisel away the brick and mortar from existing electric box down to floor level (or over to door frame). This will allow recessed conduit that can be concealed with matching mortar. Then run conduit across to new location. Cover conduit along floor with baseboard, or chisel out brick along floorline to accommodate conduit, then mortar over conduit. Or simply paint conduit to match brick. You must use conduit since wires cannot be run openly. Gene
Inspect speaker for loose wires/broken wires. Check inside box for loose connection. Blown fuse on amp. Ive literally pulled the wires out of the speaker. The little mesh ones from the terminal to the cone. Look for that. If you do find something broken or bad. remember you can call MTX and fix for a flat rate on most evrything they carry. Ive sent several amps there. normally around $100
Wow - You're looking at quite the job!! The wire needs to be protected inside the walls or at the least inside conduit along the outside of the house - but that wouldn't be too pretty. I suggest getting yourself an Electricians fishtape ( if you don't already have one ) and choose a point either inside a closet or in a visually hidden location you can drill through the floors and the walls to fish your romex through. If all walls are sheetrock, you may have to literally cut a channel into the wall ( use a good metal detector to find existing electric and plumbing so you can miss those ) , bury the wire, and backfill with plaster or sheetrock mud. Either way, have patience - it is a long road you're going down. The easiest way ( not the prettiest, or necessarily legal in your area ) is to run some conduit vertically along the outside of the building and fish your wire into it. Get some wiresnot to help reduce friction and simplify the pulling of the wire in the conduit.Punch your hole through the basement and attic walls and make sure you seal those holes real good with silicone. Check first with your local city and or county building code enforcement office for the legality of externally mounted conduit / wire. Hope this helps!
Hmmm. .U don't have option given for speakers to fix them onto the wall. You have to do the following steps.
Things U need are:
UL Class 2 speaker wire
Locate the studs closest to where you'd like to install your speaker. You'll want to install the speakers in between the studs.
Tape the template that comes with the speakers in the center. Check to make sure your configuration is level and plumb. Your template will tell you exactly what size hole to drill to insert the speakers. Trace the opening you need to cut into the wall or ceiling
Cut the hole using a keyhole saw or a drywall saw. Keep the section you cut open in case you can't install the speaker and need to patch the hole you just made. If the hole reveals plumbing, you need to relocate the speaker
Run the speaker wire through the wall, or fish speaker wire from an existing installation.
Install the brackets to support your speaker if one is included with your speakers. Some speakers use clips to secure them to the inside of the wall.
Strip the protective coating from the end of the speaker wire, and insert it into the speaker jacks. Test your speakers now if the wires are attached to an audio source. If not, locate the other end of the speaker wire and hook it up. Testing now will save trouble if you run into problems.
Surround the speaker with insulation to enhance the sound. Secure the speaker into place, and do any necessary patching or painting
Heating and not drying can be caused by 3 different things. I will address all three most common first
- Restricted air flow, usually a blocked vent. If the moisture from the laundry cannot get outside and fresh air in the dryer you will take extra long to dry. Be sure there is ventilation into the laundry room and more important make sure the vent is not kinked behind the dryer and that it is clean and allowing good air flow. You can go outside to where the vent terminates and feel the flow while it is running to check.
- Sensor has build up on it. Look in the dryer drum, inside on the back wall, inside on the front wall, somewhere depending on your model you will two strips of metal about the size of a pencil. Clean those with a little alcohol. Those are what sense the wetness of the clothes and control the cycle. If they get a build up residue on them they do not sense properly.
- The load is mixed, meaning you have some articles that absorb moisture like towels and some light garments that dry fast, the fast drying articles can fool the dryer into thinking the entire load is dry when the heavy articles are not.
You are correct in having concerns. Many articles on the web say cut two holes, run the wiring and you're done. This is incorrect, unsafe, and can void your insurance policy in case of a fire.
Many local building codes are based on the National Electrical Code (NEC).
First, the NEC does not allow flexible power cords (or extension cords) to be mounted inside of walls. This means you can't run the TV power cord inside the wall. So a new AC wall socket will have to be installed where it will be hidden by the plasma when mounted.
Second, all wiring run inside a wall must be rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL) as Class 3, or CL-3. This means the cables between your cable box, DVD player, etc. must all be UL CL-3 rated. Fortunately, CL-3 rated HDMI, Component, Coax, and other cables are available. They are just a little harder to find and will cost a little more.
Third, make sure the wall mount you purchase can handle the weight of your plasma and is securely bolted into the wall studs.
If you follow this advice, you will pass inspection by even the most picky home inspectors and insurance companies.