Washer stopped at end of first wash cycle. True of all wash settings. I assumed it was the timer failing to engage transmisson and/or motor and replaced the timer. Problem persists. Inspected impeller/ discharge hose for movement/ obstructions. Discovered impeller is direct to motor shaft- no clutch. Discovered multi taps to motor winding. Suspect motor must reverse to discharge water & spin. Can't see any other relays. Motor looks brand new- no water, dirt on it. Noticed lid switch issue on an LSQ posting, but my wash cycle works. Wouldn't the wash cycle fail also if it were the lid switch? Steve in Ruskin, FL
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Re: Whirlpool LSR7133KQ0 no pumpout, rinse, or spin.
NO...the problem you are describing are the typical symptoms of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch shuts the washer off when you open the lid while the drum is spinning. This is a safety feature to prevent injury from moving parts if you decide to add a garment or stick your hands in the tub for some reason while it is in operation. On some model Whirpool's the washer WILL work initially for the wash cycle, then stop when it gets to the rinse cycle. I would recommend you check your lid switch to make it is not loose or broken. Your washer is also equipped with a lid strike (a small plastic piece on the lid that activates the switch) make sure it is not broken off or missing. This will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch.
If you require a replacement switch, they can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com, or you can go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. The part number for the switch is 3949247. The lid strike (if required) is part number 358684. If you need instructions on how to replace the lid switch, you can use this link if you like:
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If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch
assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid
switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any
electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches
should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock
assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically
or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter.
The switches should have continuity according to their design.
If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet
valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water
rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit
indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water
to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the
cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.
If the timer advances normally thru the spin and drain steps of the cycle you selected, than the problem that would cause neither spinning or draining, is the wash motor is not reversing. The motors is a two direction motor. It spins clockwise for normal agitation, but counterclockwise to engage the wash drum clutch and operate the drain pump. I would ask you to check for motor sounds at all during the spin and drain cycles. The pump reversing in the spin or drain cycles can be a function of the machine's lid safety switch, or if not the motor switch or timer contacts. The lid switch is first thing to check here, for sure! If the machine seems to stop running when it comes time to drain or spin, the lid switch is your best bet!
The cycle selector is not engaged onto the timer shaft. Need to remove the on/off knob by removing the plastic "U" clip. Remove the cycle selctor knob and check that the steel spring clip on the selector is fully seated. Re-install the cycle selector onto the timer shaft aligning the selector key with the with tthe notch on the timer shaft. Re-install the on/off knob.
The cycle selector and on/off combination is a poor design. Users press the on/off knob in and turn clockwise to set the wash cycle. If you're not gentle this action wears the teeth on the timer shaft and the user has to press harder and harder to set the wash cycle. This pressing causes the cycle selector to be pushed off the timer shaft and you can no longer operate the machine.
Stop using the on/off knob to set the wash cycle. Press on the cycle selector to set the wash cycle. Use the on/off knob only for starting or stopping the machine. Don't press or pull too hard on the on/off knob or you will wind up pushing the cycle selector off the timer shaft.
I'm assuming from your problem that the washer went through its' first wash cycle, drained and spun, then filled again for the rinse cycle, went through the rinse and didn't go to the drain / spin cycle.
If that is correct, it appears that the motor, pump and transmission are working. It also appears that the Lid Switch is working. These are the main places to look for a problem such as yours.
If you stop the washer by pushing the control knob in, moving it to the spin cycle and starting it again, and the washer still doesn't spin, the problem points to a defective timer.
Before replacing the timer, I'd check the Lid Switch again by removing the two Trim End Caps and the two screws under them. Tilt the console back and disconnect the connector from the console to the lid switch.
Using a short insulated wire, jumper the Lid Switch at the console by jumping between the two outer pins.
Following is the Whirlpool Installation and Maintenance manual for these machines with a section on how to jumper the switch.
I assume the timer is mechanical instead of electronic--try turning the dial slowly through the full cycle positions. You should get motor operation at some points along the dial. If the motor never reacts, look for a circuit breaker button on the motor near it's wiring entry. With the power plug out, try turning the motor shaft to make sure it is not bound up. If the motor does run at points, then probably the clock motor on the timer is bound up.