I have had prob before where fridge hasnt cooled have taken back panel off freezer and defrosted coils seemed to work before, when i did this , now it isn"t, fridge is still not cooling ,any suggestions on what else it cud be . ty for ur help
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up
on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on
the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the
freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately
four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the
self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the
circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount
of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils,
cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine
if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable
food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several
towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow).
This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice
build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal
setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with
one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heaterIf it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem
with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
And you are posting because,.......????? You are looking for a second opinion? Don't like the repair estimate?
1. Your freezer is not working great. If it is frosting up, frozen packages will soon beging to soften also.
2. All of the cooling takes place in the freezer compartment. A fan blows air over the coils in the freezer, and directs some of it into the fresh foods side to cool it. When the coils become blocked with frost, the air can no longer flow into the fresh foods compartment. Result is warming of FF area. You may also see freezing in the bottom FF bin, water dispenser not working, FRZ section warm, etc.
3. Manually defrosting the coils will temporarilly solve your problem, but it will reappear in a few days to a week or so. (depending on door openings, ambient temp, etc)
4. The motherboard controls the defrost interval and (although not the most common) certainly can be a cause of defrost failure. If a qualified servicer diagnosed it as such, it most likely is just that.
The problem is the defrost system located behind the freezer back panel.
The defrost system (AKA evap. system) is composed by an heating coil, a fan , and a defrost thermostat, and its function is avoiding ice formation on coil. When defrost system is defective the fridge wont cool down properly
In your fridge , either evaporator fan, thermostat or heating element is faulty, and the ice on coils is preventing the appliance from cooling down properly.