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Re: cutting cast iron soil pipe
Phil, I recommend a ratchet snap cutter as it will allow you to cut the pipe in a clean manner. These are available for rent at most major home improvement stores in the US. One can also rent one at a tool rental company. I rented mine for $35.00 the bulk of which was a deposit on the tool. Just a reminder when buying the coupling device ensure you ask for or get a 4 inch cast iron to 4 inch PVC coupling. A bit of vaseline will help you get the neoprene coupling to seat properly with the PVC if you encouter resistance. Good luck. If you need more assistance let me know.
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Get a rubber splice joiner for that size of PVC Pipe. Just cut the pipe with a hacksaw and maybe another inch for clearance to put the joiner over both pieces of pipe and apply clamps. If you forget to put the clamps on then just unscrew them completely and wrap around the sleeve and tighten. Got mine at a plumbing supply, Lowes should have them.
you can get a steel cutting blade for a handheld circular saw and use that if you have room.. beware of the sparks also..this looks like a flat grinding wheel and runs in place of the sawblade.. it will cut through most metals..be very careful as it will spin very fast so hold slow and steady when cutting with it..
always replace cast iron if its not a problem to do so, especially if it looks rough or is leaking or rusting. there are simple special black neoprene boots used to connect cast iron to pvc and do not require anything but a screwdriver, no slovents or sealers are required. always check for leaks if you make an underground connection before you cement the spot back up. its better to use gravel to fill this area in if your particular situation will allow.
Depending on how many pipes you have connected in the run from the toilet to the concrete pipe, I would replace all of it with plastic pipe and a new soil pipe if I could find one, if not put the plastic in the soil pipe and pour a concrete patch to fix the hole. Without seeing what you have there, it is hard to say for sure. But cast iron is not used much these days and a job to fix, cut, seal, repair, most are replaced. Hope this helps.
You didn't state the size of the pipe or if it is PVC(plastic) or Cast iron. Two rubber couplings can be used to repair the joint. A 12" section, 6" on either side of the joint needs to be cut out. Cut a piece of schedule 40 drain/waste pipe same diameter as existing pipe to size(just under 12"). Take two rubber couplings (sized for your pipe) and place on each end of pipe joint, and tighten clamps.
This fix will work on cast iron pipe, but there may be another means of repairing the joint, so get back to me with more info about the pipe and joint.
You will need to use a cut off saw to remove the pipe. The pipe is probably cast iron and yes it will be leaded in. They did have rubber hub sealers back then I believe but most often they are leaded in. Use a hand held grinder with a cut off blade to remove the drain. You can cut if off and then if you are going to replace it, you can use a standard push and seal drain in it's place. This type of drain has a gasket already in place, all you have to do is push it on and it forms a water tite seal.
The best way is to cut the pipe out and repipe. I'm guessing that the pipe on this is a ridgid schedule 40 PVC. On the new units, they don't use ridged pipe much anymore. If you do decide to cut out the pipe and replace it, it is possible you might have to replace one of the jets depending on how they are mounted to the pipe. Make sure you use primer and a glue that is made to use on wet pipes. You can get it at the hardware store and it's blue. It's the type that you can use on sprinkler systems. You can try the epoxy but you need to make sure that the joint is dry and clean before applying it. Like I said, the best way is to cut out the old and replace with new.
I worked at a tool rental business while going to college and became familiar with OSHA requirements as it pertains to construction. There is an old saying that if you follow the rule-book by the letter things will quickly come to a grinding halt. I checked on OSHA web site and could not find anything on you question. I recall that using the correct blade only results in a cleaner cut, however there is the possibility that the pvc material can load-up on the blade and cause jambing. An inspection of the blade will answer this. More important is that all safety items are in place like the blade guard and that all workers in the vicinity of the saw are wearing eye protection. We used Norton brand abrasive blades and the following is their guide.
APPLICATION GUIDE: Concrete: For concrete/masonry - silicon carbide specification for brick, block, concrete, and other masonry materials. Metal: For metal/steel - aluminum oxide specification for mild steel, stainless, and metal decking. Asphalt: For use when cutting mostly asphalt. Asphalt / Green Concrete: For asphalt and green concrete - silicon carbide in coarse grit range. For high performance, hot pressed wheels provide significantly longer life. Ductile: For ductile iron and cast iron pipe - formulated with a special blend of silicon carbide (for cutting) and aluminum oxide (for long life). This specification is also suitable for cutting PVC.