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There are two main types of governor and the centrifugal type tends to be reserved for heavier stationary type engines. Most portable lightweight appliances use a vane-type governor where a vane is placed adjacent to the cooling fan so the faster the engine revs the more air is moved and the more the vane will move against it's restraining spring.
There is a spring biasing the throttle to fully open and this spring is connected to the throttle or speed control lever.
There is a link connecting the throttle to the vane. After starting the engine speed will rise until the governor vane moves under the rush of cooling air forcing the throttle butterfly to close against the spring pressure until the vane pressure and the spring pressure are equal and therefore a constant engine speed is achieved.
Moving the speed control lever to increase speed tensions the spring and opens the butterfly causing the engine speed to rise until the vane force again equals the spring pressure.
This is a fairly basic but very common type. There are variations using two or three springs but the principle remains the same.
Limit controls determine the maximum up and down point for the door, so that it doesn't keep trying to close when it's already all the way down, or continue to open when it's fully open.
Force controls determine how much pressure can be applied against the direction of travel before the door will sense the pressure and stop moving. Imagine setting a watermelon or egg in the way of the door when it's closing. If your force control is not set correctly, it will crush the watermelon or egg.
The Liftmaster openers have 4 movement switches, a )opening and b) closing limit and c) opening and d) closing force. First check the door for smooth operation by opening the door by hand (disconnect from the opener with the release cord). Any binding should be felt this way. It is possible for a binding hinge, roller or torsion springs to add too much drag and cause the force switch to shut off the motor. Hinges, roller shafts and torsion springs should be lubricated at least annually with a non oily spray (silicone or teflon spray). Not WD-40 or 3-in-1! A light band of lube should be applied to the torsion spring coils. If the door can be operated smoothly by hand, then adjust the closing force switch 1/4 turn at a time. This is a safety device do not use it to overcome another problem!
YOU WANT TO TURN IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO THE STOP (THIS ADJUSTMENT IS ONLY ABOUT 3/4 TURN FROM MIN. TO MAX.). THEN TRY THE DOOR IF IT REVERSES TURN IT ABOUT 1/16TH TURN CLOCKWISE. CONTINUE THIS VERY MINOR INCRAMENT ADJUSTMENT UNTIL THE DOOR CLOSES WITHOUT REVERSING. THEN GO 1/16TH TURN FURTHER.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO STOP THE DOOR AND REVERSE IT BY GRABBING THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR AS IT GOES DOWN AND LIFTING SLIGHTLY. IF YOU CAN'T GET THE DOOR TO BOTH CLOSE AND REVERSE WITH MODERATE PRESSURE YOU MAY NEED ADJUSTMENT TO THE DOOR / SPRING / ETC.
- I DO NOT RECOMMEND ADJUSTING THE DOOR YOURSELF - CALL IN A PRO FOR THAT.
IF THE ADJUSTMENT IS SUCCESFUL ADJUST THE OPEN SENSITIVITY / FORCE IN THE SAME MANNER.
This is normal operation,the new units are very efficient and air tight so when you close one door especially hard you are forcing air into the inside that has to escape somewhere therefor it forces the door that is stationary open just enough for the air to escape,as long as the door closes back afterward you have no problem if the door opens and swings out,then you would have a leveling problem the fridge would be leaning too far to the front.
I had the same problem - had my local appliance repair shop come by - simple releveling of the unit such that it is tilted slightly back re-establishes things so that the doors will cloe and pull themselves closed. The gaskets are actually magnetized. If the leveling is correct - even upon closing the left door - forcing enough pressure to push open slightly the right side - it will draw itself back in.
This is actually fairly normal, and there's no real easy way to get that bolt out. Your best bet is to continue turning it as if you were unscrewing it while applying pressure to the opposite end. A narrow piece of metal can help, especially if coaxed with a ballpeen hammer. If possible, you can try to apply some pressure upward on the spring to keep it from holding the bolt too tightly, but this only works about half the time.
Getting the bolt back into place is also something of a nightmare, as you have to use your thumbs to hold the new spring in place while forcing the bolt back into place. I've had indentations on my thumbs from holding that spring many times.
to be honest with you, close the door more gently. there are air vents between the frig and the freezer, when you close the frig door its forcing air into the freezer which in turn forces the door open some. the air has to get out so thats what it does. i hear this complaint alot.