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Having problem with getting the color and contrast right?

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Good Day;
Turn your color down all the way, do you get a good Black and White picture with good black, white and grays? If not your picture tube may be going bad. It can be adjusted sometimes to get a 'better' picture.
If picture is a good B&W; adjust britness level: 50% > contast: > 90/95 % >color: 50%.
Good Luck, big IRISH.

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

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Color settings for an older panasonic tv trying to adjust the color setting for this older panasonic tv, it seems the dark colors are really dark and there faces are really red. Model# CT-32g19j


This is not a projection set; but a picture tube set or CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) technology. If the set is working correctly you should be able to go into the menu and set the color, brilliance and contrast to get the right color and picture intensity. If the controls don't give you what is correct viewing it may be over age and need an adjustment of the internal chroma circuits - which may cost more than the set is worth since it is quite old. Hope this helsp.

Oct 08, 2014 | Projection Televisions

2 Answers

Too dark


well...the contrast comes to mind first, and then the color temperature..it's all accessible from the menu, of course.

I'd start with contrast, and then look at the color temperature ratings..

Apr 27, 2008 | Pioneer SD-533HD5 53" Rear Projection HDTV

3 Answers

CONTRAST ADJUSTMENT


it is best to shut the color level to the lowest setting then try t balance the screens to achieve the best black and white picture. then turn up your color level. Your brightness level should also be set to 50 % then when you adjust for the best B&W picture. You will have better color and brightness when you reset your color and brightness levels.

I am further looking into ur problem..

Goodluck..

Feb 07, 2008 | Hitachi 57F500 57" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Setting color and contrast


contrast on this model usually at a max of 75 percent and color at about 50 percent.

What issue or problem does the set have if any?

May 16, 2012 | Toshiba 43A10 43" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

Dec 12, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-55XS955 55" Rear...

1 Answer

I cant get the color right. its to red??? any help? i did notice with the back cover off, there are 6 adjustment screws


yes! those are the screen and focus adjustments. 3 for screen, 3 for focus. try this. go in menu....turn down color, brightness, contrast all they way down. you should then have no picture, but in your case a little red. then go to back of tv and turn those 3 screen adjustments all the way down. slowly turn the screens back up until you get barely a picture. because remember, your brightness and contrast is all the way down. the picture should be dim but seeable and with red, green, blue adjustments, make it a black and white picture. when balanced..... turn up color , brightness, contrast in menu. enjoy!

Nov 14, 2009 | Philips Magnavox 9P6034C 60" Rear...

4 Answers

I own a samsung ln46a530 and need to configure it for the best picture.....any recomendatios?


If you haven't already bought a nice set of HDMI cables, go ahead and do so (just dont fall for the "gold plated" cables as they are a gimmick). Unfortunately, while we all want that HD quality, there seems to be some problems with the ln46a530 when switching from RCA to HDMI. On the bright side, they have been resolved in this forum post.

Best audio settings:
Mode: Custom
SRS TruSurround XT: On
Auto Volume: On
TV Speaker: On

attachment.php?attachmentid=107143&d=1207804513

(# of clicks):
Balance: 0
100Hz: 8 clicks right
300Hz: 8 left
1kHz: 4 left
3kHz: 3 right
10kHz: 5 right


For best picture:

Most accurate settings
(This with the mode at movie)
Backlight = 6
Contrast = 85
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 0
Color = 50
Tint = G50/R50

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Off
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Custom
Red: R33 - G0 - B0
Green: R18 - G52 - B0
Blue: R11 - G0 - B51
Yellow: R49 - G53 - B0
Cyan: R22 - G46 - B56
Magenta: R37 - G0 - B43
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 26
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 22
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 25

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Warm 2
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray)<-- set this according to your source! If you use a PC, or aPS3/Xbox360 with expanded RGB levels, you might need to set this tonormal!
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium
Entertainment modes = Off



Hope this helps!!

Dec 01, 2008 | Samsung Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Hi, I have just purchased the Samsung LE37A559 tv. I have been trying to get the best colour settings brightness colour contrast tint backlight etc. Is there a optimum setting for all of these ? I am...


The problem is that everyone has a different "taste" when it comes to these settings. I like to turn the color all the way down to start with. You should (if the set is factory adjusted correctly) have a black and white picture. If it's not B&W, then there's something inside the set that needs adjusted and you should get a service call. Then I adjust brightness and contrast to get the best B&W picture. Then I turn the color up until I'm happy with the color level, then I adust tint.

Hope that helps

Geno

Jul 29, 2008 | Samsung Projection Televisions

1 Answer

COLOR


Some people have a scale on their T.V. somewhere, or for most cable users it shows on the menu an area where you can change contrast, color, tint, brightness, ect...

Dec 08, 2007 | Sony KP-46WT500 46" Rear Projection...

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