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Re: Head will not drive. Can feel it slip between nut and...
Inside the shaft is a flexible drive cord, at each end is usually a hex or torx head fitting that slides into a sleeve, theese can sometimes strip or even snap off and need replaced. remove one end of the shaft (either the engine or the spool) and the cord should slide right out easily. inspect each end for stripping and to make sure it didn't snap off inside the sleeves.
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Well with only this info it could be a lot of or many failures to lock it down . First is it belt driven or direct shaft drive.if it is belt driven ,
(possible more not likely ) then unplug power supply .locate belt and follow to bearing journal and pulley on the blade end . pull from this end in the direction the teeth are facing(forward or fryont )
. Shouldn't take much effort.the idea is to roll any foreign object
clear , or free of smaller areas that would bind or jam any part of the drive train . While your there check belt
TIP: usually,almost any type of motor that has a belt for the drive train, has built in thermal overloads .. Like a fuse when it gets hot ,
the solder pot melts thus opening the circuit . They reset themselves In a time vs. Temperatures. Depending on the melt point of pot ( some in mins , some in hours ) . For yours it takes 15
mins or so to allow solder to cool and the link has made continuity thus closing the circuit. If belt slips around pully but motor shaft turns , something or some object has gotten between frame and drive ,or the bearings are seized up on the blade end . That's why we roll the belt at the blade end istead of turning shaft at motor end . The only other thing is if it's a direct shaft drive , you still will be looking for a jam piece , however possibly a locked rotor in side motor ,, meaning the out put (Armature ) shaft extending from motor to blade has seized up internally .Again check bearings if direct shaft .,,also more and more power tools are coming with a brake on them . As soon as the user has taken the power of
of tool the brake will engage and stop any rotating parts .
Best to Ya. A. Goodwin
The V-1401 has a power bowl lift that is belt driven by the same motor that is used to mix. Remove top cover to check the belt. If belt is good and not slipping, is the operator handle working on /in the bowl lift gear box? If not, could be broken shear pin on handle or worn out parts in gear box. Next thing to check is the output shaft of the bowl lift gear box. If it is turning when the operator handle is engaged and the bowl lift jack shaft is not turning there is a broken shear pin between the output shaft and jack shaft. If everything is good to this point the bowl lift yoke has a large brass nut on back side of it that the jack shaft goes through. If the nut is worn the bowl lift yoke will slip, fall and/or jam. to unstick and lower the bowl , one can turn the jack shaft by hand. WARNNING : if the nut is worn enough the yoke can drop suddenly and it is very heavy.
Using needle nose pliers slip the split line off the connection and pull out of the gas tank. If there is a filter on the end you need to extract through the gas cap opening. Purchase another gas line either in a repair kit or individual line and cut to fit. If the filter is bad, use a new kit. Insert through the gas cap opening and pull up through the supply line opening. Be sure the connection is clean then slip the new line onto the clean connection.
The brush roller is driven by a belt installed on the motor shaft. The belt could be broken or off the shaft. The brush roller could be clogged inside the end caps with debris which prevents rotation. To solve the debris problem, it will be necessary to remove the belt from the motor shaft, then note the orientation of the end caps and remove the brush roller. Next, remove one end cap and check for clogging material. Remove the material. Slide the brush roller shaft away from the end of the brush roller to check for clogging material at the opposite end. Remove the material. Slide the brush roller shaft back into position and reinstall the end cap. Reinstall the brush roller in the correct position. Reinstall the belt. Check for proper rotation of the brush roller.
the motor spins around a steel shaft that sticks out on one end, and the belt is driven by that shaft, belts are easily damaged and broken, meaning roller wont spin. Often a burning smell of rubber is noticed after motor shaft spins on stuck belt. cause is always hair./string/something at the three contact points. motor shaft and belt, roller and vacuum body become clogged. become familiar with taking cover off roller/belt, and cleaning Checking moving parts roller/belt come out easily and simple to clean...keep spare belts.
Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds. -------------greebid.com
Slacken off the 'tube shaft' retaining clamps at eithr end of the drive tube. Push tube back in towards the engine and resit the shaft and tighten clamp screws, repeat the same with the gear head on the other end.