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Re: Head will not drive. Can feel it slip between nut and...
Inside the shaft is a flexible drive cord, at each end is usually a hex or torx head fitting that slides into a sleeve, theese can sometimes strip or even snap off and need replaced. remove one end of the shaft (either the engine or the spool) and the cord should slide right out easily. inspect each end for stripping and to make sure it didn't snap off inside the sleeves.
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Well with only this info it could be a lot of or many failures to lock it down . First is it belt driven or direct shaft drive.if it is belt driven ,
(possible more not likely ) then unplug power supply .locate belt and follow to bearing journal and pulley on the blade end . pull from this end in the direction the teeth are facing(forward or fryont )
. Shouldn't take much effort.the idea is to roll any foreign object
clear , or free of smaller areas that would bind or jam any part of the drive train . While your there check belt
TIP: usually,almost any type of motor that has a belt for the drive train, has built in thermal overloads .. Like a fuse when it gets hot ,
the solder pot melts thus opening the circuit . They reset themselves In a time vs. Temperatures. Depending on the melt point of pot ( some in mins , some in hours ) . For yours it takes 15
mins or so to allow solder to cool and the link has made continuity thus closing the circuit. If belt slips around pully but motor shaft turns , something or some object has gotten between frame and drive ,or the bearings are seized up on the blade end . That's why we roll the belt at the blade end istead of turning shaft at motor end . The only other thing is if it's a direct shaft drive , you still will be looking for a jam piece , however possibly a locked rotor in side motor ,, meaning the out put (Armature ) shaft extending from motor to blade has seized up internally .Again check bearings if direct shaft .,,also more and more power tools are coming with a brake on them . As soon as the user has taken the power of
of tool the brake will engage and stop any rotating parts .
Best to Ya. A. Goodwin
The V-1401 has a power bowl lift that is belt driven by the same motor that is used to mix. Remove top cover to check the belt. If belt is good and not slipping, is the operator handle working on /in the bowl lift gear box? If not, could be broken shear pin on handle or worn out parts in gear box. Next thing to check is the output shaft of the bowl lift gear box. If it is turning when the operator handle is engaged and the bowl lift jack shaft is not turning there is a broken shear pin between the output shaft and jack shaft. If everything is good to this point the bowl lift yoke has a large brass nut on back side of it that the jack shaft goes through. If the nut is worn the bowl lift yoke will slip, fall and/or jam. to unstick and lower the bowl , one can turn the jack shaft by hand. WARNNING : if the nut is worn enough the yoke can drop suddenly and it is very heavy.
Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds. -------------greebid.com
Slacken off the 'tube shaft' retaining clamps at eithr end of the drive tube. Push tube back in towards the engine and resit the shaft and tighten clamp screws, repeat the same with the gear head on the other end.
I believe what you need to do is remove the 3 screws on the trimmer head to remove the head from the lower shaft. After the head is off you can look down into where the shaft goes and be able to use some needlenose pliers or something of the sort to pull the broken part out.<!-- from fixya rte -->
At the motor drive end, (where the engine is).. the end of the flex drive should mate with the clutch housing. You may just need to remove the clutch-housing cover in front of the motor to access it and turn it until it accepts the flex drive.
measure the outside of the tube and any compatible head will clamp on the tube
all internal drive shaft and cables use a 1/4 square drive at the end which slips into the bevel drive gear in the head
normally straight shaft tubes are bigger in diameter than bent shafts
junk yards or dumps are a good place to get heads complete
The Metal Clamp referenced clamps directly on the end of the '2-Piece Gear Box Assembly'. The gear box assembly is an aluminum casting held together by 3 machine screws. The Metal Clamp does not actually lock the drive shaft housing into the gearbox assembly. The flexible drive shaft cable engages the engine output shaft, and the gear box assembly. This is a fixed length (non-adjustable) assembly.
First ensure that the drive shaft assembly is fully engaged at the quick connect fitting and that the "snap" is engaged. Then make sure the knob is fully tightened. The quick connect allows you to quickly switch between various attachments offered on this unit.
Now, based on your description, it sounds like the 'anti-rotation screw' 791-182519 has backed out or is gone. This will allow the entire cutting assembly (gearbox forward) to slip off of the drive shaft housing and disengage the flexible drive shaft. If your cutting assembly is attempting to rotate while in operation, or the drive is not engaged as you described.
Do not continue to operate the unit until you get this fixed as you could strip out the drive shaft end or cause other serious damage to the equipment or yourself.
If it is the anti-rotation screw, then make sure to push the drive shaft housing firmly into the gear box and ensure to align the holes in the drive shaft housing and the gear box. If the screw is lost, then find one similar sized, but be CERTAIN that it is not too long as it will actually engage the flexible drive shaft and prevent rotation, or cut the drive shaft.
Back to the clamp: If it is still wanting to move, then remove the lock nut and place slightly oversized washers on the bolt head and the lock nut. This will force more pressure (does not take much) on the clamp and will lock it down.
I just fixed mine today (071809) in fact and had to drill a new hole in the drive shaft housing as the original was completely wallowed out.