I have a 4-year old Hayward HeatPro electric heat pump. The pilot light will come on and stays on with power and the thermostat is turned up full. Sometimes when I flip the breakers on, the heat pump will start and shut off in 5 seconds. Left this way, later it will start again by itself and go off again in 5 seconds. Ever since I put this unit in, it seemed erratic, in that sometimes it would start right away and other times it would start when it was good and ready (mentioned just in case it give a clue). Now it won't heat at all!
I do not see a model number on it but it is about 40 inches tall and 32 inches in diameter.
I see questions and answers about self-diagnostics and digital this-and-that, but I don't think I have that kind of unit. If I do, I need that help.
Why is my pump cutting off and on every 5-10 seconds?
Hayward motors are factory wired for 240 volts unless the motor is 120 volts ONLY. Check the voltage of the incoming supply power and ensure the motor is wired or can be wired for this voltage (data plate on motor will help provide voltage and wiring information). Also check for loose or badly connected wires. Contact a certified electrician for repair.
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Is the new thermostat the correct temp rating for that Jeepster? Do you have correct antifreeze mixture?Yes you can run without a thermostat you will just have constant flow always did that with my old cars when I was a teenager...
If the motor still runs at all start the pump with the lock off and it will pop out. If not use some liquid soap and a small straw like a capalery tube on wd. Any thing small enough to fit through the space you can get when you pull the seal plate back, their is an inner plate with an "O" ring and you need to get the soap to that then let it sit for half hour or so and go back to the side to side prying when the soap and the "O" ring come together it will slide right out.
This is your contactor enguaging and one of those things you don't notice when everything is working. At this point your getting power through the unit and will need a pro to probally replace your element.
This could be something as simple as a dirty filter. Heat pumps are notoris for pressure problems as they are very fickel. Make sure your filters are clean, then their should be a by-pass assembly on your inlet, outlet pipes for water this valve needs to be set at just the right spot to keep the water flow high enough to collect heat but not so high as to not warm enough. Setting this flow is easy enough with the unit on restrict the flow till the unit starts and wait to see that it keeps running. use a gentel hand and do this very slowley as the unit takes time to respond. But first make sure your filters are very clean and your baskets also. These are usually the culpret's when it comes to low pressure and low flow. The switch usually just tell's you that is where the problem is. If their is no corrosition or leaking at the pre. sw. more often than not it's ok and just tell's you to start looking for the problem. Good luck.
Line from skimmer connects to front of pump, top of pump connects to inlet of filter and outlet of filter goes to pool returns. Inlet and outlet of filter should be marked on filter and most Hayward filters that use backwash valves have valves that come pre plumbed to fit filters. Hope that helps, with pictures or models of filter and backwash valves that's about all I can tell you. God luck
Low pressure is usually a dirty filter ob basket. If you have a by-pass on the plumbing you can shut this down a little to get more flow through the heater. Or you may have a clog in your pump impeller. Hope this helps.
Well Its a little complicated and unless you understand the heat pump /refrigeration cycle and the need for defrost and how the defrost is limited and initiated, well Id say yep...you need a pro.
About the only thing I can suggest you check is the initiate termination thermostat (assuming your Heat pump works with one of these). It will be identified by 2 wires going to it and it will be clamped on the line (Not brazed on or screwed on). Now there will also be a reversing valve which has 4 tubes going to it and 2 wires. and it could have high, low, pressure switches that have 2 wires. This thermostat is usually mounted 1/3 to 2/3 way down on the coil and is suppose to be mounted on the "U - Bend" of the out door coil tubing. It usually resembles a pancake and will have a wire or metal clip that holds it securely on the coil U bend. Make sure it hasn't fallen off or come loose. This can cause your heat pump to miss its required defrost.
You can try this also. Some defrost timer boards have a set of "test pins" you put them together with a screwdriver or a piece of wire for a few seconds to initiate a defrost. It defeats the time logic in the board It should go on into defrost and stay in until the coil is cleared of frost and or about 10 minutes which ever comes first. If it comes out right away it may be the termination switch I talked about above. It could also be the board. To check out the thermostat locate the 2 wires going to it from the board. pull them off the board and retry it. Sill goes right out of defrost then jumper the 2 wires together and try it again. If it still comes out this time it most likely the board. If it stays in defrost either time when removing the wires or jumping the wires its the thermostat.
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