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Sers Elite front load washer FDL again~

UHI jsrock. I had a solution given to me by you on or about August 1st. You said I had 2 problems. I replaced the door latch motor two weeks ago and today it started that fdl business again! The only way to get it going again was to unplug it for 15 mins. It finally started up again. The door latch is not engaging apparently at times. I don't know what else to do after replacing the latch motor as you suggested. Any ideas? Thanks so much Phoebe112

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  • Phoebe112 Sep 25, 2008

    I left the washer unplugged overnight and tried to start it this morning. So far, so good! I will try several loads today to see if the computer reset. Thanks for your help! I swear this machine is driving me crazy. I had a master protection agreement with Sears; I called them on August 13 for service and had to wait until Sept. 3rd for a tech to come out. I reminded them to bring the part when I called. He didn't have it with him so cancelled the call that afternoon. I had to wait a week or so for the part; Sears then tried to schedule me for another week out so I called the tech directly ( as he instructed). He as due to come that Friday but never called or showed up. Monday he called to say he would be out the rest of the week due to an injury. They only have one technician for a 200 mile radius! Sears called the NEXT week to say I was on the list for he next day. By then my handy husband had installed the new part with your instructions on how to do so. I thought my problems were over...........In the meantime I wrote Sears a scathing letter to get my money back for their Master Protetion Agreement as I was in the 60 day cut off period for cancelling. I wrote the president, CFO and the Attorney General of Texas (consumer protection division ) also. We will see. No wonder Sears is going under. Thank goodness for people like YOU out there. Thanks so very much for your help. This really sours me on Kenmore, though and I alwyas loved their reliabilty in the past. Thanks again; I hope I don't have to contact you again at least for this problem! Phoebe 112

  • Phoebe112 Sep 25, 2008

    Hi again, thanks for the inspiring comment that I do actually own a good machine! You aren't gonna believe this BUT now the F11 is coming on and the machine stops. I had to unplug it again for 30 mins. to get it to drain and spin. Good grief! My husband wants to know if the FDL and the F11 are signs something is wrong wit the control unit? So far the door latch seems to be working okay ( I hesitate to even say that as I may hex myself again) since I unplugged it overnight. I am awaiting yur repsonse with bated breath! Phoebe 112

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The "Fdl" error occurs when the door latch attempts to lock, but cannot for some reason. Sometimes the washer can experience momentary glitches, which the manufacturer recommends unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes. Often, this is all that is required to correct the problem and the washer operates normal. You may not be unplugging the washer long enough to reset the computer. Barring the possiblity that you may have purchased a defective part, the remaining recommendations I have are as follows:

1. Make sure the washer is not overloaded to the point where it is putting weight against the door. If you have to force the door closed, this can cause latch errors.

2. Check the latch mechanism on the DOOR and make sure it is in good condition. The door latch may be working just fine, but if the mechanism on the door is damaged, it may not be staying locked.

3. Check all the wiring harnesses from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) to ensure they are all connected properly.

4. Check the connectors at the CCU. Connector 8 (the third connector from the RIGHT), along the front of the CCU is the Main Door Lock. Connector 6 (the 5th connector from the RIGHT), along the front is the door lock solenoids. Make sure these connectors are attached properly and not loose.

5. If the connectors are fitted properly and you still have the error code, you can confirm the CCU by removing connector 6 and taking resistance checks across pins 1 to 3 and 2 to 3. This checks the LOCK and UNLOCK solenoids, respectively. Both readings should be about 60 ohms. If the readings are abnormal, replace the CCU.

6. Connecter 8 is the Main Door Lock. To verify it, you have to start the washer on any cycle. Once the door locks, UNPLUG the washer from the wall. Check for continuity at connector 8 (pins 4 & 5, and 1 & 2) of the CCU. This checks to make sure the main locks are engaged. Both readings should be 0 ohms. Once again, if the readings are abnormal, replace the CCU.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 25, 2008

    The washer is actually a very good washer. I can attest to it, because I own one. The only problem I've encountered in 8 years has been a hole in the rubber door bellow. I replaced it and it has run just fine with no problems (and, I have a family of eight. The thing runs all the time). I can't explain why some people have luck with them and some don't, and I can sure understand your frustration with paying for a Protection Plan and then not getting a rapid response from them when you need repairs. I hope this resolves your problem for now, but...keep me in mind if it reoccurs. Good luck to you.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 25, 2008

    Check the CCU as I suggested. If everything checks out good, you may have purchased a defective door latch. Double check all your connections too. The two faults are sometimes directly related to one another. I suspect you may have a door lock solenoid problem with the CCU, but you need to try to ruel it out first. Let me know...

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1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
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1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
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2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
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