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It sounds like you have a dead short. Check the wire, it quite often will break at the point that it comes out of the machine. The power is going straight back to the panel before it gets to the motor and that flips the breaker. It probably needs the whole wire replaced. If you can take it apart, check with an ohm meter to see which wire it broken. Do not have it plugged in while doing this.
one half of the breaker you moved is not making contact in the panel or moving the breaker caused the fan relay to be on the same 115 volt leg as the power leg. If the breaker is connected to two points in the panel and you have 115 volts on each side of the breaker (230 volts) You can move the breaker one notch higher or lower or switch wires on the breaker to correct the circuit.
Make sure the door is closed. If the door is not closed tight, the
microwave will not function.Sometimes food will get stuck in the door
and prevent the latch from working. Use the paper towel to get the food
out, then close the door carefully and listen for the latch to click.
Check the power sources. First, make sure the microwave is plugged in;
the plug may have shifted or slipped partway out of the socket. If it
is plugged in and still does not work, voltage test the outlet the
microwave is plugged into. If you are not getting a reading, the
breaker is probably blown. Reset the breaker for that outlet in your
home's circuit breaker box.
3 Reset the microwave breaker. Take
the back cover of the microwave off with a screwdriver. Inside you will
find a motor. Most microwave motors have a small red reset button on
them. Hit that button. Your microwave should work again if the breaker
was the issue.
That the microwave turntable will not run solution.
Needed equipments are:
the turntable base wheels and guides. If they are gummed up with food
other gunk, they will not turn and the turntable will not rotate.
Clean as needed.
the microwave case by unscrewing the casing screws with your
screwdriver. Locate the turntable motor which will be directly beneath
the oven floor.
3 Inspect the belt that connects the motor to the rotating table. If the belt is broken, replace it.
the probes of a continuity tester to the electrical contacts on the
motor. If the tester lights up, the motor windings are good, which
means the motor is functional. If there is no light, the motor needs to
the wires leading from the cord to the motor itself. Look for any
breaks in the wire, or a wire that has been pulled off of any
electrical connection. Any connection that has been compromised can be
soldered back into place, but if the cord is damaged at all, it needs
to be replaced.
to spin the motor by hand if the continuity is good and the belt is in
place. It should spin freely, but if it is difficult or doesn't move at
all, you will need to lubricate the bearing. Either apply spray or
bearing lube to the motor axles to solve this problem, and allow the
motor to spin freely once again.
First, check the outlet that it's plugged into, to make sure that there's still power to the outlet. If there isn't, then the circuit breaker for that outlet has been tripped, in your home's circuit breaker panel. Leave the dehumidifier unplugged and reset the circuit breaker. If it trips again, without the dehumidifier unplugged, then the outlet is at fault. Perhaps there's a loose wire connection or the interior of the outlet is cracked.
If it didn't trip without the dehumidifier plugged in, plug the unit it in,. But, before you do, make sure the dehumidifier's Master ON/OFF Switch is OFF. Once it's plugged in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set your controls. If it runs now, GREAT! If it trips the circuit breaker again, there's either a short in the power cord or an internal electrical short. Which will require extensive troubleshooting to find.
Hope this helps you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
Try a new fan motor. It runs about $125.00, It will run a few min. then will trip the motor themal switch. you can probably still here the compressor running. It may also trip the breaker on shore power . good luck! the part you are looking for is a 1/3 hp 115vac 2 speed 1580/1020 rpm
part number #1468-3069
If the motor turns by hand, but the breaker is tripping does not preclude a bad motor. Could be nothing more than a capacitor on the motor itself. If the breaker you speak of is on the unit itself, could be bad. If it is in the electric panel, motor capacitor is the first place to look.
30 is the correct size breaker for this unit. It sounds like there is a grounding issue going on in the system. Or off of the Thermostat. Something is grounding out causing the switch to trip. Are you running #10 wire to breaker and the unit? If not you will need to increase your wire size
You need to verify if the problem is the unit or the breaker. To do this, you will need to measure the current it is pulling from the power source.
If the unit is pulling too much current, then the unit is the problem. If the unit is pulling as much or less than its rated current draw, then the circuit breaker is worn out.
The units WILL pull more power when hot outside. It should not trip a breaker unless something is wrong with either the unit or the breaker.
A current draw test will tell you for sure.
If it's not the breaker, then it's probably low refigerant causing the issue.
steve...first, is the light working? If not, you may not have power. If so, turn off all power to the unit at the breaker. Remove the filter and see if the blower turns easily by hand. Yes...switch could be bad...no...motor bad.
Open up unit and using test light from the hardware store and motor plug disconnected...turn on fan and probe the motor feed wire for power. It may be the switch that's bad. This should tell you.