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Amana electric range - light but no heat

My range still has oven light, surface and oven indicator lights and clock working, but none of the range top or oven elements heat up. The first time it happened, I turned off the electric power for 10 minutes, then turned it back on and that fixed it. Two days later the same. Once more the next day. After that, turning the power off and on didn't work except to turn on the clock. If I tried to turn on an element, I got the indicator light but the element stayed cold. I was sure it was the electronic control unit and ordered it. I made sure it really was a match for the original part and that connections were exactly the same. Unfortunately replacing the control unit has not fixed the problem...it's the same. Any ideas? The range is 8 years old and I'm not ready to give up on it yet.

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  • rablef Sep 24, 2008

    Actually I shut off power to the range by shutting off the 220 breaker for the range in the breaker box. Then waited 10 minutes and turned it back on there. Several times that worked and I got the range to work again. The circuit breaker never tripped on its own. That's why I thought the problem was in the range.

  • rablef Oct 04, 2008

    mca0824, I think there is a misunderstanding here.
    First, I must say that you were right and the problem was that I was only getting 110V. Once the defective circuit breaker was replaced the range was fully functional again. So thank you for your help. I was glad to again be given the opportunity to change the rating to FixYA
    In your reply, you suggested first checking the breaker. Knowing that the breaker (two 40 amp breakers tied together) had not tripped by itself, I figured that the problem would be elsewhere. My reply to you was in the hopes of getting a further response. The problem was not fixed, I felt frustrated, but I was still required to give a rating at that time.
    Second, after a couple of days with no more responses, I checked the voltage at the stove terminal, and lo and behold, one leg had no voltage. So apparently this double circuit breaker was functioning only partially, without tripping, and I was "fixing" it (but only temporarily) by turning it off and on. I thought that only worked for computers, not old fashioned electric switches. But you put me on the right path and again I thank you.
    Finally, I am surprised at your sarcasm. My rating was "thanks for trying" , not "thanks for nothing". If that is considered a BAD rating then maybe the ratings should be explained better to the public. My wish for you is to feel less insulted when you do not get the appreciation from your customer that you feel you deserve. Sometimes people are distracted by their many problems and do not always express appreciation as they should (and want to). Others are self centered and give appreciation to no one. You should not let this detract from pride in your profession and the personal satisfaction of a job well done.


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  • 172 Answers

Hi rablef,
I would recommend you check your fuse or breaker box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If you are only getting one leg of your 220 volts the you will have the problems you have listed. If you have no breaker or fuse problem you should then check your range cord for possible shorts or hot spots. Then work your way to the terminal block on the range. It definately sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to your range. I hope this will FixYa.
Good luck, Mike

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

  • Michael Anderson Sep 30, 2008

    Maybe one side of the breaker was tripped and by resetting the breaker you solved the problem just like I stated. Thanks for the bad rating, I will be sure to help you first in the future.

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  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: Surface element doesn't work

When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.

Posted on Jan 18, 2006

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: From where do I access the lower oven element on a Amana ACF4215A

There should be two screws at the rear of the bottom panel inside the oven. Remove those and lift out that panel. The element is under there. If there is not enough wire to pull thru you may have to disconnect and reconnect the wires to the element from the back of the oven by removing the back panel. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: Surface Burner not heating

HI, The wire that comes with the receptical also comes with wire nut and instructions. It is only a two wire receptical so you will not ned a schematic. Alos, make sure the ends of the element are clean (no burn marks) or it will ruin the ne receptical in time. Can I help further?

Vic

Posted on May 16, 2009

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: 0ne of the surface units does not heat. Frigidaire Electric Range

HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know

Thanks
Vic

Posted on May 17, 2009

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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