Question about Amana Kitchen Ranges
My range still has oven light, surface and oven indicator lights and clock working, but none of the range top or oven elements heat up. The first time it happened, I turned off the electric power for 10 minutes, then turned it back on and that fixed it. Two days later the same. Once more the next day. After that, turning the power off and on didn't work except to turn on the clock. If I tried to turn on an element, I got the indicator light but the element stayed cold. I was sure it was the electronic control unit and ordered it. I made sure it really was a match for the original part and that connections were exactly the same. Unfortunately replacing the control unit has not fixed the problem...it's the same. Any ideas? The range is 8 years old and I'm not ready to give up on it yet.
I would recommend you check your fuse or breaker box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If you are only getting one leg of your 220 volts the you will have the problems you have listed. If you have no breaker or fuse problem you should then check your range cord for possible shorts or hot spots. Then work your way to the terminal block on the range. It definately sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to your range. I hope this will FixYa.
Good luck, Mike
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Surface element doesn't work
When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.
Posted on Jan 18, 2006
There should be two screws at the rear of the bottom panel inside the oven. Remove those and lift out that panel. The element is under there. If there is not enough wire to pull thru you may have to disconnect and reconnect the wires to the element from the back of the oven by removing the back panel. Hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
SOURCE: Surface Burner not heating
HI, The wire that comes with the receptical also comes with wire nut and instructions. It is only a two wire receptical so you will not ned a schematic. Alos, make sure the ends of the element are clean (no burn marks) or it will ruin the ne receptical in time. Can I help further?
Posted on May 16, 2009
HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know
Posted on May 17, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 20, 2014 | Kitchen Ranges
Jul 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges
Sep 13, 2012 | Frigidaire FPES3085KF Stainless Steel...
Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool Ovens
Dec 10, 2009 | Roper FEP320 Electric Kitchen Range
Nov 28, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
Apr 13, 2009 | GE JBS55 Electric Kitchen Range
Mar 28, 2008 | KitchenAid KERC607 Electric Kitchen Range
Oct 27, 2007 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...
1,045 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: