My maytag has continued to trip my breaker box, every single time I've used it. I've called an electrician out to look at my breaker box and he saw no problems. Even when I use only one eye, and it's on medium high or even medium it trips the breaker. Also, any time I try to use the over part, it trips off after a few short minutes. I will continue to go and switch the breaker on, and on and on every time it trips. Usually about 4-5 time per 30 mins of use. PLEASE HELP!
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Re: Maytag continues to trip the breaker
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,
Sounds like you have a short circuit in your electric range!
What is the model # ?
How old is this range?
You will need a good service tech, hands on for this!
Let me know how it goes,
Here is an interesting report I just read!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old range
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your range,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your range is under warranty or less than four years old ,
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that ranges under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your ranger is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new range.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive range
eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of ranges you replace are likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not for get to give a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM
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I have a hard time believing that the home's main breaker is tripping instead of the branch circuit breaker that feeds the microwave. I suspect it is really just a difference in terms. You should disconnect it and try using in another outlet - preferably one on a different circuit if possible. If the breaker continues to trip; this appliance should be disconnected and either be discarded, repaired or replaced before using again.
If the microwave works as expected (on a different circuit), it may indicate the original circuit is overloaded. Microwave overs are supposed to be installed on a dedicated circuit. This means only one outlet is on the circuit - no other loads (lights, appliances, etc.) are permitted on this circuit. A microwave typically requires 10 Amps or more when on "high" and will require a significant portion of the power supplied by a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. There is little unused to power much of anything else. If other appliances go out when the microwave trips the circuit breaker, you should contact an electrician to have a dedicated outlet installed for the microwave.
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
You can take your unit to nearby service centre if you find all the above are working fine.
Should have 240 volts at element. If it has continuity, you will read the same voltage on either side. Check across the element for 240. If you only have 120 check for 240 across the two outside terminals where the cord hooks up. More than likely either a half tripped breaker or defective breaker.
Sounds like water got into one of the switches. This usually happens when you wash the knobs. Water stays in the holes and runs down the shaft when replaced. Maytag has issued a recall on some stoves because this can be a fire hazard. UNPLUG THE COOKTOP UNTIL THIS IS FIXED!!!!!!!!! This has happened to me with a whirlpool unit and it tripped a breaker and shot sparks across the kitchen. First go to Maytags web site and see if yours has a recall. If so Maytag will fix it free. While you are waiting leave stove unplugged and light with a match. If you need to fix this yourself disconnect the wires from the two switches this should stop the sparking. Connect one switch at a time and see which switch is bad. Most of the time the electric part of the gas valve can be replaced seperately. and you can do this yourself. If you must actually disconnect a gas pipe unless you really know what you are doing call for service.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses.
An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only
one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not
heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if
this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired
2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured
with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
When the element burned in 2 iot may have tripped your circuit breaker.
Check your breaker box and look for a 40 or 50 amp breaker and flip it off and then back to on. If this doesn't help then a tech. may need to be called for service.