Question about Kitchen Ranges

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Inglis stove wont open oven door

I had problems with my main board of my inglis and had to get it repaired by a dummy but i put it in and it shorted my oven door...now i dont know if there is a reset button to open it or if i have to bust it open to release contents inside

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  • renald6969 Sep 23, 2008

    it has been 4 months i couldnt use the oven and when i repaired the board ,it short circutted and it locked my oven door...it is about 8 years old and i think the model number is Q 904200

  • renald6969 Sep 24, 2008

    never mind i dont know what other info i can give ya but i gotta get a new one cuz ima bust some window

    lol

  • renald6969 Sep 24, 2008

    yup

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  • 750 Answers

Hello renald6969 ,
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,

You aid, You had problems with your main board of my inglis and had to get it repaired by a dummy but you put it in and it shorted your oven door...now you don't know if there is a reset button to open it or if you have to bust it open to release contents inside!
STOP
Try this reset feature and see if I can help you open it.

1.Turn everything of on the range and oven.
2.Go to the breaker and turn it off for 5 minutes.
3. Turn the breaker on.
Now lets see if this procedure reset the system and released the oven door lock!
Let me know!
Do not break it open!
I'm here tonight .
Just let me know!
What is the model number and
How old is this electric range?
I am Huuum
Please do not forget to leave a rating before you sign of!

Posted on Sep 23, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Sep 24, 2008

    I do not recognize the model number.
    What is the manufacture??
    Huuum


  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Sep 24, 2008

    Okay I got it Q 904200

    they are a Canadian appliance made by Whirlpool!


  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Sep 24, 2008

    Hello renald6969,I think this time you need to call a real service tech. here on our site you can find a local repair company in your area! Sounds Like you had the wrong main board!

    Here is an interesting report I just read!

    Repair or replace?

    When to pull the plug on your old range



    Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
    in the owner's manual.

    Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
    The answer depends mostly on the age of your range,
    how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

    Follow these guidelines:

    When a repair makes sense.

    If your range is under warranty or less than four years old ,
    paying for a repair makes sense.
    Note that ranges under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
    readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

    When a repair might be a wise choice.

    If your ranger is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
    it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
    But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
    given that today's models have added features.
    Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
    are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
    more efficient than those built before 1993.

    When it pays to replace.

    The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new range.
    Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive range
    eight or more years old.

    Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
    of ranges you replace are likely to end up in a landfill.


    Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
    Please do not for get to give a rating before you sign off!
    Thank You, HUUUM




  • Neil Golan
    Neil Golan Sep 24, 2008

    Please leave me a rating before you sign off.
    Thank you Huuum


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I have a Kenmore stove electric was baking and the top part used for broiling came on now it's on even when oven is turned off it has a number on display e2 f3


Hello. The E2 F3 error indicates a high temperature condition. From what you're describing though, the main oven control board is malfunctioning. This board has relays on it that turn on the bake or broil elements. Sometimes, these relays can either become shorted or stick--causing whatever they control to stay on improperly. If I had the model number of your range, I could provide you with the part number for the control board, relay power board(if present on your model oven) and oven sensor if needed. Normally, at room temperature, the oven sensor will have approximately 1100 ohms of electrical resistance, +/- 10%. Remember, always remove power from the range before checking anything. There are only 2 things in an oven that control temperature--the main board and the oven sensor, which is connected to the main board by 2 wires. You will have to remove the back panel of the oven, locate the wires coming from the sensor and disconnect the connector joining the sensor to the board. Put an ohmmeter across the 2 leads of the sensor and take a reading. If the reading is near 1100, then the sensor is good--you can't check the main board. Important note: if your oven is more sophisticated, it might have another circuit board called a "relay power board", which might be causing the problem. The relay power board is just what it sounds like--a circuit board that has a bunch of relays on it that turn on/off everything--stove top elements and oven features. They are notorious for malfunctioning. The oven control board simply tells the relay board which relay to activate/de-activate. I hope I helped you!

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The pop was a shorted wire.
The short drew sudden over-amp at breaker.
Amps = heat.
Breaker senses heat and trips before wire to oven is damaged, and before the arcing short can cause a fire.
Was the short at the element?
I don't know, but sounds like the circuit board was damaged.
Of course they are putting electronics inside all appliances today instead of old mechanical dial, because it's cheaper or so much prettier... but new appliances more vulnerable to surge, and other electrical failures. Which is true for all 240V appliances not protected by whole house surge protector.
To test element.
Remove element.
Use a continuity tester across the element connections.
If there is continuity, then the element is probably functional.
Use a multimeter across same element, set multimeter to read ohms.
240 Volt, 3500 watt element should be about 16 ohms.
4500 watt about 12-13 ohms
Volts squared divided by watts = ohms
57,600 divided by 4500 watt = 12.8 ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

I would guess that the short fried the circuit board, but there is a also a shorted wire somewhere that is still bare and dangerous while power is ON and you are touching oven or stove, unless 240V breaker is GFCI or arc fault, which probably not. Especially dangerous if you are moving stuff around trying to find problem while power is ON.
Gene
h

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