While using my cordless to drive in fasteners on my deck, the power began to wane slightly and the bit broke inside the head of the fastener. The bit is a 2+ and is 3.5 inches long. I found another bit that was shorter, but the power wasn't as strong and the bit kept coming out of the fastener. So I charged the battery pack for an hour, removed it and charged the spare pack. I removed that before going to bed. In the meantime, I bought two extra bits that were identical to the one that broke. In the morning, I put on a pack and got zero power. I checked the trigger and it was set in the forward position. I don't know what torque to use, but that shouldn't matter, should it? Neither battery packs produce any results. I charged one for several hours but I still get zero power.
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Re: It doesn't run even with a charged battery pack.
The problem here is not your driver, but what you are asking it to do. A good rule of thumb for carpentry jobs is "Always use the right tool for the job!" I work in the carpentry shop at the metropolitan opera in New York. We use 14.4v and 18v cordless driver drills only. However, you should know that cordless tools are to be used for small, short jobs. Once you subject a cordless tool to constant, repetitive tasks that require lots of power, the tool will suffer performance problems and may fail. Your broken bit indicates that you are expecting this tool to do more work than it can handle.
When driving long (2-1/2" or longer) screws into very hard (most decks are made of pressure treated lumber at least 1" thick) material, the proper tool is a corded drill. This tool is made to deliver constant force for long service cycles. When driving screws over 2" into hard woods or other dense material, any cordless drill is only good for less than 6 cycles of use. A 12 volt battery will give out after several drive cycles under this type of demand.
Unfortunately I think you have depleted your batteries life expectancy. Most Ni-Cd batteries will only last 1 to 2 years under normal wear. I think your batteries will need replacement or repair. Good Ni-Cd repair centers are hard to find, but with determination and persistence, you may find a battery recycler who will replace the cells in your batteries for a fee of about 1/2 the cost of new batteries. DeWalt batteries are not cheap, so you will have to determine your best choice. To drive several screws into your deck, I would recommend a corded drill. It will stand up better under the demand.
As for broken bits, heavy use will always take a toll on your bits. They will break less if they fit the fastener perfectly. Also care must be taken to drive the fasteners in perfectly straight, perpendicular to the work surface. Remember the adage, "Always use the right tool for the job!". Take one of the fasteners with you when you but new driver bits. Check for the best fit to the fastener you want to use. For decades the standard drive bit has been the "phillips" bit. At the Met we only use "Robertson" drive or square tip wood screws. They cost more but slip less, and the bits rarely break. Always select a bit that best fits your fastener.
I hope this solution brings you success in your projects. Best Regards, Michael Mittelsdorf
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The cordless drills I have purchased even good ones like Ryobi lasted about three years The drills will work good but the batteries go dead after a while. My Ryobi I keep one battery charging in my charger all the time but before you do this check your manual to make sure its ok. I change batteries every two weeks when not in use all the time. I never have a run down battery that way.
Hello, there are two components require to charge a kraft tech 18v battery. A power pack (power suply) and a battery station. The power pack says 24v DC 400mA but produces 34v DC at no load. When the power pack is connected with the battery station a green led lights at the
battery station and the battery station produces 32.4v at no load( i mean without put the battery on to battery station. I believe that if i put the battery at the battery station the voltage drops to 24v DC, which is the voltage that the power pack says. I'm sorry but i can not measure the voltage that produced from the battery station when the battery is on it because my battery is dead and has shorted elements. I hope that was useful. Greetings from Hellas (aka Greece)
Check electrical contacts in drill body where battery connects.
Check wiring inside the drill, trigger and check also brushes.
You do not have to invest 329, you can buy "body only" machine for few bucks and reuse your charger and battery packs.
As you know, solid red on your charger means that the battery is fully charged and the BLINKING red light means the battery is charging. Unless the light is blinking irradically everything is working the way it is supposed to. If the light is blinking irradically, the battery may just be too hot or too cold to charge ( like when you are driving many lags and your battery dies) and in this case simply wait 15 minutes to charge. If you get a fast blinking light still, the problem probably is with the battery.
It needs a new battery pack. Rechargeable batteries eventually wear out and no longer hold a charge. The tool runs only briefly and the battery is exhausted again. The big home centers and online sources sell replacements. There are also companies that say they can rebuild your battery pack at much lower cost than replacement. I have no experience with them.
Unfortunately, Makita’s li-ion battery packs have a design flaw. After having the same problem with my two batteries, I took it apart and saw the problem immediately. You see each battery pack has ten li-ion battery cells and a circuit board with a memory chip witch holds the charging history of the battery pack. But that memory chip constantly draws power from 2 of the 10 batteries. The current it draws is very small but if you consider it over 8 month or more, the power drain becomes very significant. You end up with a battery pack with 8 still fully charged battery cells and 2 drained battery cells. When you put this battery pack in the charger, it detects weak battery cells, assumes they are defective and refuses to charge. To avoid this problem you should charge your battery pack often, even if you haven't used it, every two months should be ok. I suspect that Makita doesn’t make these battery packs, they make power tools, good ones too. Buy Makita should definitely have a few words with their supplier before they become a liability!
Unfortunately, Makita’s li-ion battery packs have a design flaw. After having the same problem with my two batteries, I took it apart and saw the problem immediately. You see each battery pack has ten li-ion battery cells and a circuit board with a memory chip witch holds the charging history of the battery pack. But that memory chip constantly draws power from 2 of the 10 batteries. The current it draws is very small but if you consider it over 6 month or more, the power drain becomes very significant. You end up with a battery pack with 8 still fully charged battery cells and 2 drained battery cells. When you put this battery pack in the charger, it detects weak battery cells, assumes they are defective and refuses to charge. To avoid this problem you should charge your battery pack often, even if you haven't used it, every two months should be ok. I suspect that Makita doesn’t make these battery packs, they make power tools, good ones too. But Makita should definitely have a few words with their supplier before they become a liability!
Clamp one side of [power line of your charger insert baterry pack,if amphere increase the battery pack was ok.select battery good one still run impact diver insert to the charger amphere increase good charger and battery pack. Two only the problem Battery pack or charger, if charger not function , the power transistor will be replace or buy new charger.