I have a problem with my Nikon d80. At some point some of the values like: shutter speed, F-number, exposure compensation and maybe some more properties, simply got stuck on the values there were set, and now whenever I change a value, it is changed, but after the several seconds, after the camera is going into "resting" mode, the value that was set returns to the "stuck" value. I was trying resting the values, but it didn't work. I feels like some electrical issue. I removed the battery and put it back with no luck. Can anyone shade some light on this issue?
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EV is Exposure value refers to the amount of light for a given exposure. It is denoted as a single number. Its value is subsequently used to calculate the correct combination of shutter speed and aperture at a given ISO speed of the sensor. Starting point is a shutter speed of 1 second at f1, which is denoted as EV 0. Further up the scale a single exposure of EV13 could be ISO 100, f8 - 1/125s, or f11 - 1/60s.
It doesn't make any difference which combination you choose, as all variations at the same EV will ensure a correct exposure. Remember though, you are always balancing camera or subject movement against depth of field. This is because a change in aperture will require a change in shutter speed for an equal amount of light to reach the sensor or CCD. If you set the shutter speed one stop slower and aperture one stop smaller, exposure doesn't change, but you increase depth of field slightly and the possibility of blur.
The r09 is just the display that tells you how many pictures you have in the memory buffer for shooting in continuous mode. There are a few reasons why it might not take a pic in S, but normally it's when it's not in focus. Maybe you have it pointed at something too close for the lens to focus. It also could be that your shutter speed setting is way too fast for the available light.
In S mode, the camera will use your shutter speed setting and adjust the aperature to match the light. If it can't get enough light at the shutter speed set, then it won't expose. Keep in mind this isn't just for exposures that are close to being right, only when the shutter speed is so fast or slow that the exposure isn't in the ballpark.
Seriously, there are limits. There's only so much light in the gym, you ISO only goes so high, and your lens is only so fast. A faster lens can get you a stop or two. You can try adding more light. Beyond that....
With the same exposure settings, you should get the same result. When using Bulb in Manual mode, you also need to be sure you have set the lens aperture to the largest opening (lowest number). And don't forget to set ISO to 1600. Since the D80 has shutter speeds as long as 30" (minutes) I recommend you use them instead of Bulb, unless you need longer.
The blue areas are heat noise from long exposure -- other electronic components near the sensor are generating heat from the constant current flow. Be sure you check your Shooting Menu settings to set Long Exposure NR to ON and also High ISO NR to HIGH.
Unless you are using high-end Nikon Speedlights with camera and flash set for Auto FP High-Speed Sync, your top flash sync shutter speed on the D80 is 1/200 second. The black band you are seeing at faster shutter speeds is because the second curtain of the shutter begins to close before the first curtain reaches the fully-open position (which is when the flash fires). The higher the shutter speed, the shorter the gap between first and second curtains. To get full exposure with flash, there must be an instant when the shutter is fully open -- first curtain completed travel, second curtain not started yet.
"As the speed increases the final image should get lighter" applies to ISO speed. Higher shutter speeds mean less light reaching the sensor, but that's not the cause of the black bands.
Your shutter will stick if it gets dirty or dust gets in the camera, a reputable camera shop can inspect the shutter, the sensor for dust & dirt and can clean it for you. If the battery is low while shooting the shutter can also stick on longer exposures.
use 'Program Shift'. This will change the values for both aperture &
exposure, but keep the overal exposure value correct. Eg if the standard values are 1/60th of
a second at f5.6, then rotating the dial in one direction will change the parameters (first) to
1/30th & f8, etc, and turning it in the other direction will change them to 1/125th & f4.