Question about Toshiba TLP S30 Multimedia Projector

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No power. Power cord continuity checks okay. Should contacts, on lamp, show resistance reading? Also, can't locate fuse. Two of us, with electronics background set-up, and service, audio/visual equipment for our continuing education classes (volunteer; Center for Lifetime Studies under aegis of Marist College, Poughkeepsie, NY). Youre assistance would be most appreciated. Sincerely, Pete Edman (845)297-7521

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jomaru
  • 337 Answers

SOURCE: Flashing LED on front panel

The place is call wwww.servicemanuals.net ,you can get it download or a paper copy,for this set I dont know the price but it will give it to you when you put the model number.Check for shorted horizontal output and loose conections,sometimes intermitant conection damage this transistor.Be careful

Posted on Oct 04, 2006

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: lamps burned every 6-9 months.

This is indeed a very common problem with the Toshiba products. The reason I asked about the time is that the television bulbs are estimated to last on average 4,000 viewed hours, which you are only coming up short of 50%.

Toshiba is offering an extended warranty free on the product that does cover the bulb replacement.
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpassets-images/notices/dlplamp.asp
is the link for this extended warranty.

After researching your particular make and model, I have found that the average span for a bulb is indeed 9-12 months. Beyond this extended warrant, Toshiba is offering no further assistance, and will only replace it once. They have also been having issues with the color wheel going out at an average cost of $750.00 which under warranty they will replace one time only.

There is nothing you can do beyond replacing the lamps, however my suggestion would be to replace the television itself, and stay away from Toshiba.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 1894 Answers

SOURCE: Excellent picture for a several hours, then gradually dims.

if this is a old unit the there is serious problem with the display.

check how many times the light blinks and get back to us.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

  • 502 Answers

SOURCE: Toshiba L300 satellite --- Power cord does not connect!

Unplug the powercord and try to move around the DC-Jack with a small flatheat screwdriver. If the jack moves around freely or the middle pin has too much slack you most likely have a defective DC-Jack. You can replace it yourself there are guides online that show you how to do this. The repair takes about 2-3 hours. I work for a company called Laptop Repair NYC and we do this repair frequently.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: red power light continuously blinking. no picture no sound.

It could be the lamp went out and needs replacement. The Toshiba website states when this happens to unplug the televison for 10 minutes then plug back in. If that does not work then try another power outlet. If that does not work then call for service

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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I plugged my marantz sr 8002 into 220 volts


  • There are a total of 8 fuses of varying types, wattage, and amperage ratings.
  • Disconnect the power cord to your surround receiver and let it sit for a while; hopefully capacitor drain will have occurred; just the same be careful not to contact any of the high voltage ones. They can knock you on your boom-boom or send you to the Pearly Gates before it's your time.
  • Remove the casement cover; look for the Printed Wiring Board (PWB) labeled REG_PWB...this is the regulator printed wiring board.
  • Following the circuitry from the main transformer there are 2 (two) fuses; one is located at position number F901 and the other at F902. Both are Time Lag 382 series radial lead fuses made by LITTLE FUSE. And both are 5-amp 250volt rated fuses- check for continuity using an Ohmmeter with tone. If you get tone, the are okay. If not, you'll have to de-solder them and solder in new one(s)
  • On the same board, there are 2 (two) fuse resistors rated at 0.33 Ohms, 1 watt; check their resistance values using the Ohmmeter scale. You will find their position markings at R903 and R904 on the PWB. If your resistant readings are below the spec values, you'll have to replace them.
  • The remaining fuses will be found on the PWB labeled, Standby PWB A. Check them using the continuity tester with tone.
  • Between position markings F701 and F703 the schematic shows a 10-amp/250 volt fuse
  • At position marking 701 there is a time lag series 6.3-amp/250 volt fuse.
  • At position marking F702 and F703 are 2 more fuses, both are the T382 "Little Fuse" series fuses rated at 3.15-amps/250 volt.
I believe that covers it...hope all works out well. :)

Mar 25, 2015 | Marantz SR8002 7.1 Channels Receiver

Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 1


TEST #1 Supply Connections
This test should only be done after confirming proper voltage at the outlet.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the cover plate from the back of the dryer.
3. Check that the power cord is firmly connected to the dryer’s wire harness.
4. Access the machine control electronics without disconnecting any wiring to the control board.
5. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the neutral (N) terminal of the plug and P8-3 (white wire) on the machine control board. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, disconnect the white wire of the harness from the power cord. Test the continuity of the power cord neutral wire . If an open circuit is found,
replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. In a similar way, check the continuity between the L1 terminal of the plug and P9- 2 (black wire) on the control board. If there is continuity, go to step 8. If there is no continuity, check the continuity of the power cord for power cord’s L1 wire. If an open circuit is found, replace the power cord. Otherwise, go to step 7.
7. Replace the main harness.
8. Visually check that the P5 connector is inserted all the way into the machine control electronics.
9. Visually check that the user interface assembly is properly inserted into the front console.
10. If both visual checks pass, replace the user interface assembly.
11. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
12. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.
13. If indicators still do not light, the machine control electronics has failed: Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
Replace the machine control electronics. Plug in dryer or reconnect power. Perform the Console Buttons and Indicators Diagnostic test to verify repair.

TEST #2 Machine Control Power Check
This test is used to determine if power is present at the machine control electronics.
NOTE: The drum light is controlled by the machine control on all models.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Open the door.If the drum light illuminates, then power is present at the machine control, and it is functional. Go to TEST #6. If the drum light fails to illuminate, do not assume the machine control electronics needs replacement. Several conditions may cause the drum light not to illuminate, including a bad bulb. If the drum light does not illuminate, go to TEST #1.

TEST #3 Drive Motor Circuit
This test will check the wiring to the motor and the motor itself. The following items are part of this motor system:
Harness/connection Belt/belt switch Drive motor Centrifugal switch Door switch Machine control electronics
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics and measure the resistance across P8-4 and P9-1.
If resistance across P8-4 and P9-1 is in the range of 1 to 6 ohms, replace the machine control electronics.
Otherwise, go to step 3.
3. Check the wiring and components in the path between these measurement points by referring to the appropriate wiring diagram and strip circuit in Section 7.
4. Check the belt switch and drive motor. Access the belt switch and drive motor by removing the front panel/drum assembly. Slowly remove the drum belt from the spring-loaded belt switch tension pulley, gently letting the belt pulley down.
5. Remove the white connector from the drive motor switch.
6. Check for the resistance values of the motor’s Main and Start winding coils. NOTE: Main and Start winding coils must be checked at the motor.WINDING RESISTANCE ω CONTACT POINTS OF MEASUREMENT
MAIN 1.4–2.6 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 5 of black drive motor switch
START 1.4–2.8 Blue wire in back at pin 4 and bare copper wire on pin 3 of black drive motor switch. If the resistance at the motor is correct, there is an open circuit between the motor and machine control electronics.
Check for failed belt switch. If the Start winding resistance is much greater than 4 ohms, replace the motor.
7. Check the belt switch by measuring resistance between the two blue wires while pushing up the belt switch tension pulley.If the resistance reading goes from infinity to a few ohms as pulley arm closes the switch, belt switch is OK. If not, replace the belt switch. If belt switch is OK and there is still an open circuit, check and repair the wiring harness.
8. Door switch problems can be uncovered in the Door Switch Diagnostic Test; however, if this was not done, the following can be done without applying power to the dryer. Connect an ohmmeter across P8-3 (neutral, white wire) and P8-4 (door, tan wire).With the door properly closed, the ohmmeter should indicate a closed circuit
(0–2 ohms). If not, replace the door switch assembly.

on Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dometic refrigerator model RM 2193 for RV works only in the DC and LP Gas mode. two days ago the AC mode was still working and stopped yesterday (outside temperature was about 40 degrees...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Operators manual:
http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-manual.pdf
Parts manual:
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals/0/Dometic_Refrig_RM2193_PartsList.pdf
If you look at the last page of the parts list (page 10) it is showing a thermostat across the Black and white wires.
There is not a fuse that I can see. The fuse has to be external to the unit. You should be able to read continuity (resistance) of the AC heating element at the power cord with the AC switch ON.
AC Power source must be removed to perform resistance checks.

No continuity there are 2 possibile failures (Other than wiring)
1. AC heating element
2. Thermostat.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly


Jul 22, 2011 | Dometic Refrigerators

1 Answer

My Dometic refrigerator electric position won't cool, could it be the fuses? If so, where are the fuses? So I can check them out. Thank you


Hi Patti,

If you are sure that your controls are set to cool in electric, then the rest of this will apply to the backside of the fridge. Double check, with a table lamp or simiiar, that you have power to the outlet that the fridge plugs into. This outlet is generally a protected outlet by a GFCI outlet located in the kitchen or bath areas. If the lamp works on the outlet, keep going. If not, reset GFCI and/or check our circuit breaker panel.

There are fuses on the Power Module, located on the back of the fridge, under a plastic rectangular housing. The DC fuse will be 3 Amp the AC fuse will be 5 Amp. If you are getting any kind of lights on the front, then the DC fuse will be okay. If your AC fuse is blown, then you need to check for a shorted heater. Disconnect the heater leads (after unplugging the fridge from AC). These will be the leads at J7 and J8 terminals. Unplug the leads, and use a multimeter to measure resistance between each lead. You should have approx. 44 ohms, +/- 10%. Also measure each lead to the case of the heater (follow the wires to the chimney). Any continuity reading here indicates a heater that is shorted to the case.

Good Luck!

Aug 16, 2010 | Dometic RM2852 Refrigerator

1 Answer

After replacing our 3 prong cord with a 4 prong cord, it no longer works. Have we fried the control panel?


First, go back and check the power cord configuration. There is a difference between how a 3 and 4 prong power cord is connected. Copy and paste the following link to your browser:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

If you connected the power cord wrong, you may have simply blown the thermal fuse. This is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Its located on the air blower housing inside the dryer.
If the model number is correct, you can access the thermal fuse by following these steps:
1. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the door, by locating the screws under the bottom front edge. You can gain better access to the screws by propping up the two front feet of the dryer (a 2 x 4 works well for this).
2. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.
The thermal fuse should be located on the air blower housing directly below the drum in the front. A resistance check should read something close to zero ohms (short) if good. If you have no continuity, the fuse is blown.
NOTE: Make sure you have the dryer UNPLUGGED and the wires disconnected from the fuse, when taking resistance checks.
If you have questions, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Aug 05, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I REPALCED THE TIMER CONTROL AND MY DRYER WILL


Always check to make sure you have power at the unit. If power is present and you replaced the timer control there is something else causing your unit not to fire up. I will assume your unit is an electric dryer. Before you check anything inside the dryer make sure your power cord is unplugged. Then check the door switch for continuity. If the door switch test okay then check the thermal fuse located on the blower assembly. Remove one lead and test for continuity, if okay then check the upper limit on the heating box. Again, this is a continuity check and again remove one of the leads before you check for continuity.

Sep 15, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

The toaster does not heat and it's only 6 mos. old.


1. check outlet where you plug in your toaster with lamp or vacuum.
jiggle plug of lamp or vacuum while plugged in to check for bad outlet.

if lamp or vacuum do not work, check breaker panel/fuse box for tripped breaker/blown fuse.
if breaker/fuse okay, replace outlet.
if lamp or vacuum work okay, go to next step

2. plug toaster back into outlet, jiggle plug, then jiggle cord at plug, then jiggle cord at toaster.
this checks for intermittent power cord.

if cord okay, check that the toaster lever or toast basket are not blocked from going completely down.
might be a bit of bread, muffin, bagel that blocks the basket.

if all okay, you need other solutions.....

Jul 09, 2009 | Back to Basics Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Ge dryer #DBXR463ED2WW does not start and power is going to dryer


You said, GE dryer #DBXR463ED2WW does not start and power is going to dryer

Here are the 5 most common reasons for your Electric dryer not to start.

Door Switch
The door switch must be operative before the dryer will start. Ensure the door switch strike is properly actuating the switch and if so, check the door switch for continuity with an ohmmeter for proper operation.

Faulty Drive Motor
If the motor will not start, it is possible it is defective. The wiring of the motor is different for each brand and you will need to refer to the wiring diagram of your dryer for the specific terminal locations. You will need to use a volt/ohm meter to check for resistance between the run winding and common (may be referred to a neutral). If there is no resistance, the motor is open and will need to be replaced.

The motor bearings can also go bad. A dryer with a motor in this condition can sometimes be started by hand and it will run. However when the motor gets hot the bearings begin to seize and the motor will stop. In this condition you must also replace the motor.

Electric Dryers:
On Electric dryers you will need to check the heat element for resistance. With the power disconnected, remove the two wires connecting to the heat element and check the resistance of the heat element by using a volt/ohm meter. The resistance should be between 5 and 50 ohms of resistance. If there is no reading the element is defective and will need to be replaced.

Heating Source
If the element is not receiving power it is likely that one of the thermostats is defective.

Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced.

Timer
The timer is the source for power to the motor and if the timer contacts are defective, there will be no power getting to the motor. Since the wiring is different between brands and models, you will need to refer to your wiring diagram for terminal locations. Once you have located the correct terminal for the motor operation, you will need to turn on the dryer and check for 110v from the timer terminal for motor operation and the chassis ground. If you have the voltage, the timer is most likely okay and the problem is elsewhere. If there is no voltage, the timer is defective and must be replaced.

Thank you for using just answers.
Please remember to leave a solved rating befroe you sign out!
Huuum





Jan 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

No power


no power, 1st you need a tester tester (range 1000vac) first the convinience outlet if there a voltage 2nd test the power cord if there a continuity(range your tester into resistance x10) put it in to the tip to tip of the C.O power cord of your turntable(the reading will have contunuity) if still no power check the fuse inside the turntable" remove the platter and the plastic be carefull trace where the power cord connect inside the circuit(maybe the fuse blown) if the fuse is still ok 4th check the contunuity of the transformer the input and output line(in tester there will have a reading supposed to be) after all if theres still aproblem just email me..hope i can help that way..

Aug 10, 2008 | Technics SL-1200MK2 Turntable

1 Answer

Roadmate 700


One of the wires in your power cord could be broken and contacting intermittently. If you have the a/c adapter, see if you can power up with that. If you know someone else with a working Magellan, you could borrow his cord to test your unit.

If not, check the car adapter with a continuity tester. Put one tester probe on one of the side springs of the car plug and the other probe on the outside metal of the GPS plug. If that shows continuity, place one tester probe on the end tip of the car plug and the other inside the the GPS plug.

If either of those do not show continuity, first take apart the auto side of the cord. Check the fuse and the wire to contact solder joints. If they seem okay, carefully cut back the molded plastic from the GPS end and examine the wire to solder joints. If any are broken, replace the cord or resolder the joints.

Oct 28, 2007 | Magellan RoadMate 700 GPS Receiver

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